Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey ive just brought a manual r32 gts-t rb20det with 77kms and im looking at gettin around the 300rwkw mark im just after some advice on wat parts need to be changed and wat turbo to go with etc, also a ruff price on parts and a good rebuild.

any help would be greatly appreciated thankyou

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117747-how-to-get-300rwkws-plz-help/
Share on other sites

hey ive just brought a manual r32 gts-t rb20det with 77kms and im looking at gettin around the 300rwkw mark im just after some advice on wat parts need to be changed and wat turbo to go with etc, also a ruff price on parts and a good rebuild.

any help would be greatly appreciated thankyou

gt35r or 40r turbo, manifold, ecu, injectors, intercooler, rods and pistons 2 b safe... AND a good tune.. 13gs later....

buy a 26

300rwkw is a lot in an R32 GTST... Stock Rb20 transmission will be shredded, and RB20DET would be hard to drive (laggy) with that much power.

So you're looking at a motor and transmission swap. Then add turbos, intercoolers, dyno tune, ECU, injectors, fuel pump, possibly differential, probably suspension (springs, dampers, swaybars, strut braces etc) and brakes, new wheel and tyre package (stock R32 tyres will be too narrow for 300rwkw!) which might require lipping/flaring of the guards, exhaust, dump pipe, cold air intake, clutch, manifold, etc. You might want to do some internal work too, if you're keen - pistons, rods, etc.

But do you REALLY need 300rwkw... I mean REALLY? Leave those power levels to the GTRs, I reckon! :P And the VTECs! :(

yeah i do lol well i dont reali but its nice 2 kno uve got it there if u wanna use it im thinkin of buyin a r33 gts25t coz my m8 will buy my 32 4 wat i payed 4 it that way i dont have 2 do an engine swap n that

your power goal is not realistic

decide;

if you plan to keep the 32 rb20

change engine

and how much money you have

then we can help you out,

a 300rwkw rb20 will look like this;

lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag lag power, change gears

kinda useless other than for dyno competitions. have u been in a 300rwkw car? why did you choose 300rwkw? its easily 15k++ to get there.

i reckon this. save up your 10k (minimum for lots of kilowatts) and do a bit of research in the process. then when u have all your cash ask the questions you havent worked out the answers for through research.

research as in scanning through various threads, reading car mags. how stuff works. com etc etc.

james.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...