Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey dudes,

Well with the RB25 going into the car i thought i would pull apart the RB20 to see what was wrong with it.

I have stripped it back to basically the head sitting on the block....looks like it was leaking oil thru the gasket @ the back (5 & 6) between the head & block.

Anyways I have hit a dilehma. I will try an explain as best as possible.

In between where the cams run in the 'valley', where the spark plugs live, is 3 bolts tourqued up to the BS, holding the head to the block. There are more 'allen key' bolts sitting on the outside under where the cams run, which are fine, just having a issue with the middle 3.

They have a 'allen key' head to them, removing any chance of using socket set. I have figured out that the outer bolts require a 10mm allen socket thing to undo, no probs there. The middle 3 are NOT a 10mm size. It seems they are too big for a 10mm, but too small for a 11mm piece. I have already snapped a fitting used on a breaker bar trying to undo these torqued up MOFOS!!! Also started to 'round' them using the 10mm.

Questions is -

1. Is there a specific tool i require to undo these?

2. If not, is the allen key part required a Imperial or metric sized piece?

Cheers, in advance dudes!!

Ando

There are 14(?) bolts with allen key heads - 10mm, available from any auto parts retailer. The bolts are accessible without removing the camshafts.

The 3 down the middle have nothing to do with holding the head onto the block.

There are also 3 small 10mm head bolts, 2 at the rear, one at the front (driver's side).

Undo from the middle outwards, alternating front and rear.

ie: 7/8, 5/6, 9/10 ...

blind elk - Thanks buddy, well i was halfway there.... now i feel like a numnuts breaking sockets trying to undo those middle 3 bolts.... ahahaha

Such things happen when you pull engines apart for the first time with no manual!

So what are the middle 3 bolts for??? anything?

Cheers dudes!

Thinking about it, undo from the ends and work towards the middle - what I initially posted is the tightening sequence.

The middle three are probably to access the water or oil galleries through the head during manufacturing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don't use ChatGPT or any other artificial stupidity for the equivalent of googling. Their demonstrated inability to discriminate reality from hallucination should be enough to make them totally untrusted. LLMs don't know anything and cannot think to even the smallest extent. They are just predictors of the next word, and that should never be confused with capability.
    • I think, given the usage model described in the OP, I'd never ever experience the wonders of the 400kW upgrade. What I really need is boost from 2000rpm and probably no more than 260-270rwkW. But I suspect that the highflow is not actually the turbo for that purpose, so I may in fact need to get a G25 or 30 or something right sized and very spooly. We shall see after it is tuned. I've had to back the boost and boost ramp off to stop the thing from pinging since the highflow went on, so I've been almost living the NA life for 9 months now! Injectors are recently in hand. AFM is in hand. Dyno is fixed. Just need to clear a queue of f**king Supras out of the way (and probably fit my new gearbox). So....some time this year? Lol.
    • For what I gather is a Sunday/summer car....braided is fine. You're not going to be left without a vehicle and you have plenty of time for inspection/maintenance. Oof. I wouldn't use them that way. They can probably handle the temperature** but the internal corrugations means that their flow characteristics are a bit shit. Lots of extra friction and pressure loss. Makes them flow like the next pipe size down. ** They are stainless, and the stainless can usually be at least something like 304L, which is pretty good at higher temperatures (unlike 316L, which I would use for a wrt/corrosive environment, but not a particularly hot environment). But the welding needs to be top notch. And even then, because you usually need at least one cone-seat end on them (because you can twist the hose and do up both ends at the same time unless one of them is a union) they can be prone to coming loose with heat cycles.
    • I don't have the OEM oil feed lines though and the turbo-wraparound line is torn, only has water. My plan is to get replacements for these and just connect a braided line to there. And make sure it's leak free. Hoses like these are also sometimes used to connect external wastegates, so for an EGR I think you're good using them.
    • Alright I understand. The most likely case is probably gonna be that I just keep the OEM unit in the car as long as it works.
×
×
  • Create New...