Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys,

My 4WD light is on and the 4WD is not working. The 4WD computer in the boot is giving code 21 throttle postion swicth as the problem. To date we have tried different throttle position switches, different 4WD computers and even different ECU's ( the signal from the throttle swicth runs through the ECU).

The voltage at the 4WD computer is 2.4 Volts should be 3.5volts using the switches earth. Using a direct earth to the car it is 4.0 volts.

At the ECU the voltage is 4.0 volts. We bypassed the wiring (both positive and earth) in the car directly from the ECU to the 4WD computer. Still had 2.5V. That was very weird.

Has anyone had this problem before. Any ideas on where to look?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/117884-4wd-not-working-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Guest Variable
Guys,

My 4WD light is on and the 4WD is not working. The 4WD computer in the boot is giving code 21 throttle postion swicth as the problem. To date we have tried different throttle position switches, different 4WD computers and even different ECU's ( the signal from the throttle swicth runs through the ECU).

The voltage at the 4WD computer is 2.4 Volts should be 3.5volts using the switches earth. Using a direct earth to the car it is 4.0 volts.

At the ECU the voltage is 4.0 volts. We bypassed the wiring (both positive and earth) in the car directly from the ECU to the 4WD computer. Still had 2.5V. That was very weird.

Has anyone had this problem before. Any ideas on where to look?

I had this once with the same error code as well - it turned out the ECU loom wasn't plugged into the power FC properly - wiggled the cable a bit and the error went away.

  • 4 weeks later...

i got the clutch changed today on my r32 gtr and when i turned on the car from their joint the 4wd light came on.

i thought id drive home and see if it turns off and it didnt, even after turning the car off and turning it back on. it didnt feel like the 4wd system was working.. could it be that they didnt top up the oil or not done properly and the powerfc has disabled the 4wd system? i'll have to take it back to them tomorrow. any other thoughts?

the clutch was changed from a completely stuffed twin plate to exedy button clutch and new lightweight flywheel.

owwww. power fc :eek:

ok.. you need to join the tps signal OUTPUT wire onto the tps signal INPUT wire..

ie.. ive seen some power fc,s loosing its out put to the auto/attessa ecu (depending on the car)

just do a search for the pin outs. i cant remember them rite now :

it's not a hyd problem!!!! code 21 is as you say a Throttle sensor or circuit problem. Check your out-put from the engine computer you are running at the computer end and then check the coresponding input at the ATTESSA computer.

In the manual on page CH-74 check the pins that they stipulate. if no out-put from eng computer, there's your problem. If no voltage/ signal at ATTESSA computer then wiring is the problem. If wiring is fine. change ATTESSA computer, or change back to original computer and see if this fixes it. if it does, then it might even just be the output signal of the eng computer.

If you have a copy of the manual, use it as it doesen't lie. If it is the wiring, i fell sorry for you as i know how long it takes to hunt down a split wire. think if there has there been any changes in the wiring that someone might have accidently cut or tapped into a wrong wire. has anything also been recently rewired???

If you dont have manual, i,m sure there is some where on this site you can get it.

Cheers. i hope it help, if any.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Does anyone know when your oil drops viscosity, if it is an issue? I imagine with tuned cars they will be overfueling more compared to a stock standard car and will thin out over time. 
    • anyone ever used these ? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/186214260439?_skw=socket+set&itmmeta=01JEG3TKV388ZXGP8N7CHNCQ45&hash=item2b5b3c1ed7:g:mhAAAOSwwB9lf~Xm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwHoV3kP08IDx%2BKZ9MfhVJKkJwJeiNMm%2FsStacz%2BhjzBowaFnbNCowwe08vVGrW0FbesCs%2Flw%2FQYjDQLjKsuKvgysWT9%2F4b9AZUX3qLP5RDfFhtD8DxufvqBbyZrQAQXuG3h8%2BxxqhWhH8fIfU84eA9W7VIpxDNw9MWj9BdfkkMasYhcqOjTrcKwLyD3ftzZbaZb2Us7%2FFR1Q2kcT68ZYRU77%2F%2BtRr1qBS27BXxh%2FjWBQxhWyUcLlEFIb%2BITZPIKwxQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOy96oP0ZA   I believe the idea being, the rods push back around the shape of whatever nut you put in there. Sounds pretty handy to just need to carry 1x socket in the car for 'most sizes'  but, theory vs reality, anyone tried them?
    • I'm not that familiar with R33 tanks. Plastic? Up behind the rear seat between the towers? Or under the boot floor like a normal car? It's the battery that's up between the towers isn't it? So, plastic tanks. Well, um. The obvious reco is plastic welding, which you'd only look at asking someone who's really good at to contemplate trying. The fuel contamination and grot is probably going to make it quite difficult though. Whether plastic or steel - the end of the crack will want to be drilled before any welding or sealing is done. Otherwise it will just continue to wander along until something bad happens. Steel tank? The obvious answer is drain, wash, purge with inert gas and drill the crack end and weld/braze/silver solder/whatever the guys who do that to fuel tanks recommend. I had a crack/hole/leak in the bottom of a Commodore tank (oe was it my ALFA? - can't remember) that I slammed some gorilla snot onto and it never leaked again. It worked surprisingly well. Or, it's time to fab a new tank.
    • MBS206 Did u just take the “Limitless” pill? cause that was way over my head, much respect bro 🤜🏼  
×
×
  • Create New...