Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I searched all over, and hav'nt gotten an answer that stops my mind from mulling over this yet.

On a car with an internal gate and a dump pipe with the open "screamer", how does the dump seal off from the screamer to keep it from being a continuous exhaust leak from the screamer it's self?

Someone is selling them on here for 32s and 33s, and I really want one, but I just cant see it sealing up.

I see that they have a piece of pipe extending into the exhaust housing, but is that enough to seal it up?

I would love some input from some of the fellas who have purchased, and are using one of these.

Also, this may be a dumb question, but if I dont mind the loudness of my straight 3" exhaust with straight thru muffler, or the sound of an open pop-off valve...will this thing be ear peircing, head ache inducing loud? Or will it be just another turbo sound to add to the list. Once again, opinions from those with ANY kind of screamer pipe, internal gate or external would be very helpful.

Thanks in advance for your help guys.

It works by having an extended seperater which comes off the flange to seal the exhaust housing of the turbo from the waste gate and exducer (exhaust wheel) of the turbo. Have a look at BATML (I think it is) split dump for R33/R32 in the business section and you will see how the seperator goes.

Screamer pipes on stock turbos while as not being as loud as ones with external wastegates are still f**king loud as. And considernig stock turbos are pretty small it will be on venting pretty much the whole time. Sounds cool but a bit risky in terms of getting pulled over and scaring little kids and old women.

It seals up to the outlet port of the internal wastegate. Try and picture an exhaust housing on the turbo like this (oO). The smaller o is the outlet of the internal wastegate, the bigger O is the nomral exhaust from the exhaust side of the turbo.

My personal opinion is they sound like crap on most internally gated turbos.

So you guys are saying that the pipe that extends into the tubine housing and looks like it almost touches the blades(I know it dosnt, just using for refference), will seal off all of the main exhaust gas from the waste gate exhaust. Correct?

When I'm criusing along at less than my wastegated boost pressure, the "screamer" will be completely silent, correct?

Then, at Max boost, it will make a whistling sound mixed with an open down -pipe kinda sound. Correct?

When I release the throttle, it will also flutter a little before the BOV can catch up to it. Correct?

Sorry to be a pain, just learning somethin' new here.

Thanks for your replies so far.

When I release the throttle, it will also flutter a little before the BOV can catch up to it. Correct?

That is correct, you might have heard people saying they have a wastegate not a bov, do this mod and you can say the same too. The screamer pipe is what gives the VL's their "choof choof choof choof" noise.

How The Heck Do Screamer Pipes On Internal Gates Seal Off?

They dont !!

Ignoring the fact that they are usually china made POS things.

There is no gasket and the two surfaces are not face machined. There is no way it would seal 100 %.

You would always have a slight exhaust leak through the gate pipe(screamer) even when the internal gate is closed.

Most people just live with this or pretend its not real.

Holey crap! That thing looks terrible. I can see how it would leak all the time.

The other ones I've been looking at on here with the little protruding pipe thingy seem like they would be much better than that thing. Ugh.

My final question before giving up on this is... Does the little exhaust leak sound like a tick, sorta like a leaky gasket, or is it a smooth enough sound that you do not notice so much???

You fellas have been very helpful, even if it means I'm probably not getting this thing now.

Thanks guys. I'm just gonna get a reular divorced tube that goes back in kinda deal.

I know I probably wont ever hear the leak over all the other sounds my car makes, but it will never seem right to me. I guess I will wait till I have a real turbo and w/g to get the sounds that go with em. LOL.

I did not search to check, but do any of you guys use the american made cheapo SSautochrome dump pipes?

Some of their stuff is crap, but a dump pipe is what it is as long as it is 3" and dosnt crack twice a year on me.

If you happen to read this, and you have one, could you please chime in with your experiences.

3 months is a long time. Mine lasted all of 3 weeks and it is a proper ex gate screamer too.

I just couldn't stand being the centre of attention whenever the car made boost......

3 months is a long time. Mine lasted all of 3 weeks and it is a proper ex gate screamer too.

I just couldn't stand being the centre of attention whenever the car made boost......

Dave that's because you're sick.... but not FULLY sick.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
×
×
  • Create New...