Jump to content
SAU Community

Was 6 Turbo's Topic Now Twin Turbo Ideas


Recommended Posts

I read up in a mag that some guy in the US "I think" Has made a 4 cil per piston turbo engine.

Just wondering if I did a rebuild and made the 20 a 24 put 6 T25's or maybe the 28 how would it go.

Also what would I need to do

I know I would need a aftermarket CPU or chip the 32 one

Bigger injectors and Fuel pump

what do you guys think?

This is a what if BTW.

Edited by 7yphon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are kidding right.....

you want to put 6 turbos on an RB20? where exactly? 3 in the boot and 3 in the passanger seat?

Even If you managed via some technical mastery to fit 6 turbos on the side of an rb20 it would not spool untill 9000+ rpm....

Perhaps you should buy yourself a bag of HKS sand and give the head a port and polish first...

Here is a really good guide on doing it

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...74&hl=hks++sand

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the rb20 has enough trouble pushing 1 of it's own turbos let alone 6.

Anything bigger than a 2510/2530 and the rb20 sucks starts becoming quite low in response. Especially in the low rpm range.

people have done 2 stock rb20 turbos on an rb20 and it was laggy as hell. 6 - you have to be dreaming.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

an rb20 is already to laggy with the stock turbo!, No stroke combined with no compression, combined with no displacement doesnt make for the most driveable combo, and you want to add 6 turbos?, you smoke rock?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

like i said just a play around also the stock turbo isnt that bad mine was full boost at 2500 rpm the one i have on now is 3500 so not as bad as some

Link to comment
Share on other sites

k, that 1 turbo spools full boost at 2500 (watever that boost is) off 6 cylinders lol. 6 Turbo's at 1 cyl a piece would mean that each turbo should come on boost at about 15,000RPM lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well whats I was thinking was 6 T05's you know the small exar turbo's off the 1.6 they are very small hey and cheap so if they blow who cares

Edit: I downloaded that guys Engine run Sounds sooooo sweet even for a V8

Edited by 7yphon
Link to comment
Share on other sites

given its a what if ill throw in my what if solution..

forget 6 t25's or the like, ideally what you'd be better of looking at is something like the turbos found on either starlets, or more preferably, the 600cc k cars out of japan, something really small...

a few reasons for this

size, the physical turbo's themsleves are not big, and ideally, with smart plumbing, you could possibly pull it off, without having to chop apart the firewall/strut towers to get them all in, probably involve some careateive manifold runners and a careful think through

response, given the 600cc jobs are driven by very little, ideally, with 2.4l of capacity, you'd still end up with a car that actually had boost below 6k

tuning it would be mighty interesting but itd be fairly exciting to pull off.. if i had wads of cash laying around and was bored id go do it for a giggle myself

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think there are turbos small enough to make it doable. You will be feeding each turbo with ~330-400cc cylinders, each of which are not good turbo spool cylinders. 6 T25s would be ridiculously laggy. No way near worth the effort or expense.

Here is a pic of an EVO 4G63 with 4 turbos though, to give a rough idea of what a "clean" turbo per cylinder setup looks like:

1702067fl.jpg

Edited by Lithium
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh. I "see" a typo above, that should have been "sell".
    • The clutch pedal has a procedure for adjustment. This can only be done after you are 100% sure the system is absolutely free of air bubbles. You must bleed the clutch master cylinder first, then the "separation pipe" which is the clutch damper line, then the operating cylinder as detailed in the service manual. Also, you must fully depress the clutch pedal between shifts. Just because you can't feel it grabbing does not mean the input shaft is truly decoupled from the crank. At high RPM clutch plates are vibrating and moving around, you need to give it the best possible chance of success. On the BCNR33 Nissan revises these adjustment procedures slightly but not by much: I would be careful with trying to play games with these adjustments. As for the Nismo operating cylinder they say a lot of things. In practice the twin plate clutch needs less movement on the clutch fork to disengage because the whole stackup of the flywheel + friction plates + pressure plate is much taller. Personally if you find that the clutch still disengages too high at the top of the travel I would try the Nismo operating cylinder. Make sure to follow the air bleed procedures. 
    • Thank you for the links. I’m going to go with the 6pin plug you used. next step is rust treating re painting dash support bar and steering column then the 6pin cradle plug when it arrives in the mail.
    • I don't how much the car makes a difference or whether it is just a question of gearbox and clutch. On mine it's fine. Pull type Nismo coppermix twin (standard, not competition) on the 5 speed in my Stagea. OEM slave cylinder. Bite point is a few cm off the very bottom of the pedal. Clutch pedal all the way down to put in gear, and when heading off at the lights, there's a tiny bit of nothing and then it starts biting. And fully engaged before the pedal is all the way released. There's a bit of play at the top where the pedal does nothing anymore. Are you in Australia @ck_chino? If you are set on using a Nismo slave cylinder I have one new-in-box at home. Ordered it together with the clutch but didn't get it fitted. We can work something out if you want it
    • I am using a pull nismo coppermix twin in an r34 getrag box, had both the standard slave and  then the nismo one. Adjusted pedal to get bite point how I wanted , it is on the higher side, but would fully disengage past half way down.  I also read that the nismo slave won't work but I had no issues with the stroke, might become one later as clutch wears but 2+ years of happy motoring so far.  Take the above as one input only, specially as my setup is a bit unique in that I am using an S15 clutch master , cefiro clutch pedal, custom braided clutch line. Lots of variables at play. 
×
×
  • Create New...