Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Folks,

I run a nice set of 18" Zepter Mesh wheels and getting them clean can be a royal pain in the arse, but they look fantastic when they are.

However, keeping them that way can often be the biggest pain of all and the biggest culprit is that damned nuisance, brake dust! You know the stuff I'm talkin' about.... wash the car today and in two days time the friggin wheels are almost black again!!! :)

I'm up for a set of brake pads very soon and wanted to see whether anyone else has factored "brake dust" into the equation when selecting pads.

Speaking to a friendly, knowledgable fellow in a local brake shop the other day, he suggested that EBC Green Stuff Pads offer excellent performance with negligible brake dust. He reckons they've had a great response from clients that have complained of the same problem, particularly drivers of expensive euro cars.

Wouldn't mind something that could handle the odd track day once in a blue moon, but ultimately I'm just looking for a high performance street solution, not kamakazi race pads.

Does anyone have any experiences / preferences that they would care to share?

Cheers,

Mike

The EBC greens work quite well and the dust is low, great for street pads for sure.

I use reds on the front and greens on the rear. Reds dont dust too bad either.

work well enough for me using them in bitumen sprints. Bite well from cold too.

Gary

I have a pair of Project Mu HC Titan Kai in mine.

they are super good and dont give out a lot of brake dust.

Grab very very well no matter what the temperature.

Don't go with RB74's if you don't like dust.... :woot:

I just purchased some Ferodo DS2500's... will let you know how they go, dust-wise.... though they'd probably fall in your "Kamikazi race pads" category

Um, the RB74's I use on the front generate far less dust than the pads I use on the rears - which are Bendix ultimates.

I use rb74's and they are low dust on the street.

They will handle the odd track day too.

Most pads ive seen either - dusty (cos the pads wear fast), or non dusty (cost they chew the rotor out more so than the pad)

Edited by Bl4cK32
Don't go with RB74's if you don't like dust.... :ermm:

I just purchased some Ferodo DS2500's... will let you know how they go, dust-wise....

Bwhahahaha.

DS2500's? I hope you like gunmetal wheels, because that's the colour they're going to be after a few days.

I have a pair of Project Mu HC Titan Kai in mine.

they are super good and dont give out a lot of brake dust.

Grab very very well no matter what the temperature.

Are your's really really really loud? I had the same pads in my old 33, with slotted rotors. They were an awesome peforming brake pad, but the squeal mine let off was SOOO loud. Louder than trucks. I had to take them off as you couldnt drive with them on the street, if you went in an underground carpark you would literally have to block your ears. i tried re-bedding them but nothing changed. But apart from the sound best brake pads i've used so far

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My take on gg2 48mm, 54mm, 58mm, and 62mm compressor map for same size compressor vs gg1 : All gg2 only outflow gg1 above 20 psi. As all g gen 2 surge line at lower left of comp map move to the right, all gg2 sacrifice spool vs same size gg1, surge line move to the right worst for 54mm gg2. So for same size compressor if you want best response, use gg1, if you want max hp at >20psi use gg2 but you will be laggier vs same size gg1. Max compressor efficiency drops to max 75% on all gg2 vs max 76%-80% of same size gg1. Iirc lower efficiency means hotter iat less dense air so lower hp at same operating point of comp map. Also curious why gg2 is mapped to lower max rpm vs same size gg1 (only 48mm size both gg1 gg2 mapped to same rpm) : 54mm gg1 165,000 rpm  vs  gg2 160,000 rpm. 58mm gg1 150,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000rpm. 62mm gg1 145,000 rpm vs gg2 140,000 rpm. If gg2 can safely spin to gg1 rpm then they can flow a bit more than as mapped. Good thing that all gg 2 interchange compressor and turbine housings with same size gg 1. So gg1 owners can buy gg2 chra only if planning to boost >20psi.
    • My stuff is all with Shannon's, granted, I don't really have imports I'm driving on the road, however, I've had multiple cars at the same time with them. Presently we have the Landcruiser on laid up cover, Sarah's Kluger on full cover, and the house insured. About 18 months ago Sarah wrote her Subaru Liberty GTB off, insured with Shannon's, and the payout, and buy back of the wreck was super quick. In 2020 we had the VF Commodore totalled in a major hailstorm. Storm was on the Saturday, I called on the Sunday and lodged it, vehicle was towed on Tuesday night, assessment team called on Wednesday to say it was a total loss and get payout details, money was in the bank on Thursday morning. Have had a few other claims both at fault, and not at fault, over the years, and never had an issue with them.   Funnily enough, they're also the cheapest insurer I find for things like Sarah's Kluger.   I will say I'm less impressed dealing with them lately around "the experience", as a lot of their staff that you deal with aren't car enthusiasts. Shannon's has a much more main stream feel ever since they decided to become "big corporate", laid a heap of staff off, and then hired a bunch of non enthusiasts. At the same time they've been making a push to be less "call us and we'll personally have someone who cares help" to "hey, this computer can do stuff for you" and are trying to get more square pegs to fit round holes. (That's just the vibe I get from them). Again, have had no issues with claims with them, but get a bit of a "less personal" feel from them.
    • A thing I wasn’t happy with with enthusiast was during the initial phone call they told me they’d insure it for 130k but needed photos.   I then sent them photos and they told me $80k as there were other cars either similar modifications available for around that price, I told them to send me the links to said cars so that I can buy them. i then sent the modification list with prices of the parts (no labor) and the price then came to 115k, which is still shy of the 130 that was agreed in the initial phone call 
    • Ask me a bit later this week before payday
    • I agree that delayed payment probably isn't the most suitable solution. It seems a solid complete transaction would be best. As I wouldn't be using this sale as a line of credit that would typically earn interest, we can probably arrange a much cleaner single transaction deal. I can do $92.52 today. Would you prefer EFT, or Cash on Pickup?  😛
×
×
  • Create New...