Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My dash clock doesnt work. After reading a few posts brought up by the search function its either the fuse or the wireing to the clock.

Can someone please tell me which fuse affects the dash clock and where its located, what amps it is.

Someone said theres a couple of fuses called "electronic parts" under the dash that are 10a fuses?

Any help greatfull.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118026-r32-gtr-clock-fuse/
Share on other sites

My dash clock doesnt work. After reading a few posts brought up by the search function its either the fuse or the wireing to the clock.

Can someone please tell me which fuse affects the dash clock and where its located, what amps it is.

Someone said theres a couple of fuses called "electronic parts" under the dash that are 10a fuses?

Any help greatfull.

Cheers.

I have the same problem however all fuses have been checked. After my car was resprayed the head unit would not work and the aircon kept resetting to 25.0'C each time I turned the car on.

So what I'm saying is, if your aircon remembers the last temperature that was set, it is unlikely to be the fuse.

And that's where I stopped fault finding! :rofl: I have two clocks sitting on the bench - neither work - so I guess it isn't the clock itself either...

For what it's worth,

Mark

yeah i got a prob with the clock too, but i havnt looked into it yet.

the clock should have 4 wires going into it, earth, constant 12v, ignition, and illumation.

both the ingtion and constant 12v wires should be on fuses.

also, they dont have their own fuses, they probley share with other accessories.

Ill double check the shop manual, to be sure, to be sure

steve

My clock dont work. I havent looked into it either. Not much help here sorry, but i thought that i'd just mention that every R32 i've been in the clocks were never working. It must be very common indeed. I'll get around to it sometime but just a matter of time.

My clock dont work. I havent looked into it either. Not much help here sorry, but i thought that i'd just mention that every R32 i've been in the clocks were never working. It must be very common indeed. I'll get around to it sometime but just a matter of time.

clock works in all my 32s. i dont think i've ever seen one not working.

yeah i got a prob with the clock too, but i havnt looked into it yet.

the clock should have 4 wires going into it, earth, constant 12v, ignition, and illumation.

both the ingtion and constant 12v wires should be on fuses.

also, they dont have their own fuses, they probley share with other accessories.

Ill double check the shop manual, to be sure, to be sure

steve

Steve any ideas on how to bench test one? Does the ignition need to be connected?

I assume illumination is not required - it will just remain on max brightness?

Here's the scan, for what it's worth.

Mark

post-14114-1147855479.jpg

Sweet thanks.

The only 2 that im not sure of are the 2x10amp "electronic parts" fuses.

Other than that i might just have to give the clock a miss, bugs me though.. :thumbsup:

Hey Mark, you might have to make the clock the subject of your next in depth tutorial mate!!! :D

Ps I decided to try and give a simple tutorial a go...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=117576

Cheers Matt

Edited by mazgtr

sweet, ill check it out!

also, i checked the clock plug on my gtr yesterday, and there was 0 power going to it, so i suspect its a differant problem. might be the fuse, but everything else works, and i doubt theyd have a single fuse for the clock.

ill let you know my findings

steve

bah f**k it. the shop manaual is freaking useless.

each wire has a special number which allows you to folow the wire through out the whoel diagram.

on the manual these a blured, which makes it impossible to folow unless you print out the schematic.

i have a print out at home, which i might try to follow.

does anyone has a high res copy???

'steve

might be the fuse, but everything else works, and i doubt theyd have a single fuse for the clock.

steve

Did you try the 2 fuses marked "Electronic Parts" under the dash? I think there both 10Amp.

I cant believe something as simple as a little clock could be such a pain in the ass!!! ;)

I might try and re-wire it into something else... :D

when i got my gtr the clock didnt work but didnt worry me, and my head light switch s##t it self and got one on ebay and come with dash surround with clock so i chucked it in and works fine, i have heard they are just cheap

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...