Aftermarket R32 Gtr Callipers

[shanef]

Alrite then. What ill get done is: Rebuild Callipers, rebuild master cylinder, check brake booster, DBA 4000 slotted rotors front & rear, Ferodo DS2500 pads front, Racebrakes Rb74 pads rear.

Well will your suspension kits suffice for what I need? If not what would be more suitable? Maybe we should talk via PM SK?

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate your help and advice and so does everyone else

[djr81]

Alrite then. What ill get done is: Rebuild Callipers, rebuild master cylinder, check brake booster, DBA 4000 slotted rotors front & rear, Ferodo DS2500 pads front, Racebrakes Rb74 pads rear.

Well will your suspension kits suffice for what I need? If not what would be more suitable? Maybe we should talk via PM SK?

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate your help and advice and so does everyone else

You forgot braided lines. Also, I think you will find the friction coefficient for RB74's to be lower than that for DS2500. This will affect your brake balance - and not in a good way. Just get some DS2500 rears as well. Lastly, if the rear rotors on your car are in good nick you needn't replace them. The back end doesn't do alot of work, so you can save yourself $400.

From using one of the Whiteline suspension kits for the R32 GT-R I can assure you they are streets ahead of the standard stuff & much better than a great deal of the imported gear. Also the price is very good.

[Roy]

But he is going to have an RB30 bottom end with RB26 head running GT-RS. He will be arriving at corners very quick...and the car is heavy.

I for one cant see a std weight R32 GTR with 296mm x 30mm rotors stopping consistantly on a race track with semi slicks and 450 odd rwkws.

...and you may have to play with front to rear pad compunds to find what works best. Again i suggest you will need way more brake pad then either DS2500s or RB74s. And typically i dont believe its the norm to be running the same pads front to rear.

Id you are goign to give it a go with DBA and std sized gear i would be lookign at race pads, more then street pads that go ok on the track

[dangerous_daveo]

Can you get the DBA 5000 rotors?

Im thinking this track as then you just change the actual rotor, not the whole thing, you keep your hat. That way it SHOULD be cheaper to get new rotors, and you can go for a more aggresive pad without having to worry about the cost of rotors as much. That or you can go a custom rotor (as its easier to machine) which might be better.

Dont actually do it without some professional advice, Im simply putting forward the idea.

[shanef]

I guess what i'll have to do is get the dba's and try different pads, and see which one is the best combination, and if i'm not all that satisfied i can then go to aftermarket callipers and larger rotors.

Dan's having a look into it for me.

What high quality suspension is there other than that of the whiteline & bilstein?

[Sydneykid]

I guess what i'll have to do is get the dba's and try different pads, and see which one is the best combination, and if i'm not all that satisfied i can then go to aftermarket callipers and larger rotors.

Dan's having a look into it for me.

What high quality suspension is there other than that of the whiteline & bilstein?

We use Proflex double adjustable shocks from Murray Coote and Eibach springs in the race GTR's, around $2K per corner. With a few sets of springs with different rates. Plus Whiteline adj stabiliser bars and bushes.

For a bit less you could try DMS from Jamie Drummond. But don't fiddle around with the 40 mm, single adjustable shock, go straight to the 50 mm double adjustable.

As Roy said, weight is your enemy in a GTR, stuff like a full titanium exhaust is a must for serious circuit work. And make sure you get the lightest wheels your budget can afford, they are 4 big flywheels. Take ~150 kgs out of it and brakes aren't such a big issue anymore.

cheers

PS; like 75% of the Production Car field, we use Hawk pads.

Edited May 17, 2006 by Sydneykid

[djr81]

But he is going to have an RB30 bottom end with RB26 head running GT-RS. He will be arriving at corners very quick...and the car is heavy.

I for one cant see a std weight R32 GTR with 296mm x 30mm rotors stopping consistantly on a race track with semi slicks and 450 odd rwkws.

...and you may have to play with front to rear pad compunds to find what works best. Again i suggest you will need way more brake pad then either DS2500s or RB74s. And typically i dont believe its the norm to be running the same pads front to rear.

Id you are goign to give it a go with DBA and std sized gear i would be lookign at race pads, more then street pads that go ok on the track

Fair enough, Roy. Obviously you are privy to some information that I don't have.

As far as front/rear balance is concerned from the published numbers I have seen for pad friction coefficients the RB74 is lower than the DS2500. So if you want to move the brake bias forward then run a higher coefficient pad on the front. My local (ie WA) brake vendor has been recommending DS2500 all round when using that particular pad. Presently I have different pads front/rear but am about to install DS2500s all round.

As an aside I don't think that DBA do a 5000 series for either an R32 or an R33. Certainly their catalogue doesn't list one, but I may be wrong on that.

Lastly the brake package & pad selection for the car may well depend on the event entered. What you want in a brake pad for a hill climb will be vastly different to that when wanting to do 30+ laps of Queensland Raceway in one hit. I guess I was focusing more on the hill climb/sprint event/road registered aspect of the whole thing & yourself on the 700hp track car.

[BBGTR]

- CSC look good value for what they are - engineer is ex-Harrop. One of the boys on here is running front and rear CSC kit, can't remember who.

Yep, that's me.

I have the 355mm fronts and 343 rears. The only reason Harrop's etc are better is because the rotor life is longer. But the rotors themselves are twice the price. Value for money you cannot go past them.

Regards

Andrew

Edited May 18, 2006 by BBGTR

[Roy]

I’m currently putting together my engine specs as my engine let go on the weekend. It will be an rb26/30, Garrett gtrs’s and supporting gear for 700engineHP (I have an excel spreadsheet if anyone is interested in having a look and making some suggestions).

QLR seems to have a few big stops looking at it on TV. But then the SAU-QLD boys seem to be rarely let loose on the full circuit...i know if i had a car that was only going to be driven in NSW then the brakes i need on a car are a lot less then if the car was going to be driven at Vic tracks.

Either way, i would be doing the brakes after your engine, suspension and coolign mods...you will have a much better idea of how much more you need

[shanef]

Yep, that's me.

I have the 355mm fronts and 343 rears. The only Harrop's etc are better is because the rotor life is longer. But the rotors themselves are twice the price. Value for money you cannot go past them.

Regards

Andrew

Can i ask how much you paid for them?

I gave GSA Wholesale Suspension a ring this morning regarding the DMS suspension, they said they can do it for $4340 fitted and aligned, any good?

Thats the plan roy. Engine (rb30 bottom end, whack forgies in so i dont have to take the head off again), get the suspension bits, get the DBA's & reco the callipers and complete the cooling side before i hit the track. Then i can think about pumping some more power into her.

Thanks alor for all your help guys. I'm sure i'll make a trip down to NSW and have a run around the tracks down there, look forward to meeting up with u guys

cheers

Shane

[Ronin 09]

I had a quote for the DMS 50mm shocks for $3240 ex fitting and alignment.

I think 4340 is a bit steep

[Sydneykid]

Thats the plan roy. Engine (rb30 bottom end, whack forgies in so i dont have to take the head off again

Standard RB30 conrods and bolts = not a good idea

They are about as good as the standard pistons

cheers

[Roy]

...LOL, forget it. Buy an R32 GTST, dont have to worry about 700hp and you wont need big brakes....I thing you could get an R32 GTST to weight around 1080kgs if you are serious about weight savings

[shanef]

Yeah I know that, I’ve planned to put rods in there aswell, just couldn’t be bothered writing it all out.

I’ll add the spreadsheet in here aswell for you guys to have a look at.

[JAGR33]

If u want a cheap brake upgrade, I have a brembo F50 kit for sale, check for sale section for details....

[shanef]

I'll just go with the dba's and pads for now, if i do change my mind i'll get onto you thoug .

Well i've had a look at what HAWK have to offer, and this is what i've come up with:

Front:

HT 14

149-871 degrees

Very high torque with aggressive initial bite. Excellent modulation and release

characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with extremely high deceleration rates and

down force.

Rear:

HT 10

149-871 degrees

Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics.

My reasons for picking these are that they have a reasonably good low temp range (149deg) and also a fairly high temp range (871deg). The lowest they offer is 38-482, or 121-538degrees and i believe the ones i have chosen are a good compromise in both regards but still offer a wide temp range. Making them ideal for sprint events & hillclimbs where you wont be able to get alot of temperature into them, but still offer a high temp rating which will be good for the big brake stops on certain circuits.

Also the fact the front pads have a more aggressive initial bite than the rears, as this would be ideal so when under hard braking the ass will stay in control and offer some brake bias.

Is this correct? or should i go for some other type of pads?

cheers

Shane

[BBGTR]

I'll just go with the dba's and pads for now, if i do change my mind i'll get onto you thoug .

Well i've had a look at what HAWK have to offer, and this is what i've come up with:

Front:

HT 14

149-871 degrees

Very high torque with aggressive initial bite. Excellent modulation and release

characteristics. Brake pads designed for cars with extremely high deceleration rates and

down force.

Rear:

HT 10

149-871 degrees

Intermediate to high torque with a smooth initial bite. Very consistent pedal feel. Excellent modulation and release characteristics.

My reasons for picking these are that they have a reasonably good low temp range (149deg) and also a fairly high temp range (871deg). The lowest they offer is 38-482, or 121-538degrees and i believe the ones i have chosen are a good compromise in both regards but still offer a wide temp range. Making them ideal for sprint events & hillclimbs where you wont be able to get alot of temperature into them, but still offer a high temp rating which will be good for the big brake stops on certain circuits.

Also the fact the front pads have a more aggressive initial bite than the rears, as this would be ideal so when under hard braking the ass will stay in control and offer some brake bias.

Is this correct? or should i go for some other type of pads?

cheers

Shane

The HT-10's and 14's will not get to temp quick enough from my experience.

A good set up is Hawk Blues (9012 compound) for the front and Hawk HPS for the back.

Alternative for the front are Ferodo DS3000's, they are nearly as good as the Blues however don't last as long.

Regards

Andrew

[Roy]

Is that based on experience in your old Rex or the GTR when you first got it? Either way, thanks...often thought about Hawk pads but very little feedback on them from Skyline owners

[shanef]

I'm keen to go out on a limb and try them out...

By not coming up to temp quick enough, how much does it take, and how much performance is there before they get up to temp? I mean will they give better results than that of the ds2500's or similar?

[Sydneykid]

Most of our drivers are trained to trail brake, so we use HT10's front and rear. You won't find any problem getting them up to temperature in a lap dash/super sprint environment. In half a lap warm up we see well over 300 degrees at the rotor (we have infrared temp measurement).

For hillclimbs I use the brakes agressively down the return road and while queing. Even on a cold day I can 200+ degrees, which is more than enough for the 1 or 2 uphill brake applications I make.

cheers

Ps; you are hardly "going out on a limb" using Hawk pads, pop out to a NSW State level race meeting and I will introduce you to 100 or so guys using them.

Edited May 18, 2006 by Sydneykid