Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I had a very clean and straight R34GT-T, until some silly bitch ran up the back me at full speed on Sunday.

It was a f**kn hard hit, so hard the van she was driving buckled it's roof.

The rear end of my cars totalled and there's some minor damge to the chassis, (suspensions OK) about 15K damge.

My panel beater (who's very good) tells me it will fine and I'll never know it's been in an accident.

I'm not so sure, I really worry about cars once they've been in a hard it like that, with chassis damge.

I'm wondering should I keep the car, or just sell it once I get it back?

Thanks

Any chassis damage is bad for the car. If the repairer is good, you shouldn't be able to tell it hasn't been in an accident. 9 times out of 10 though, it won't feel the same again.

Just see how it is when you get it back. Hopefully all works out nicely for you :D

Edited by d0p3y
Any chassis damage is bad for the car. If the repairer is good, you shouldn't be able to tell it hasn't been in an accident. 9 times out of 10 though, it won't feel the same again.

Just see how it is when you get it back. Hopefully all works out nicely for you :D

Thanks for the reply,

Yeah that's pretty much I thought. I've taken it to an exceptionaly good Prestige Panel Beater, so I guess I'll just have to hope for the best!

best bet i think would to be to sell it after its been fixed up if your still not happy with how it feels.. i wouldnt pull the dodgy on someone though, but if your not happy with the car your driving, then whats the point? you wont enjoy it so much

hope it does turn out ok though. a hit from behind, i would have thought would be the best spot to get hit if any. if it was hit side on just hard enough to do a bit of chassis damage it would put the whole car out of line, or the same with the front or a corner.. where as the back, no engine, and less chance of making it out of line.

From my experience high quality repairs are better than factory building. Spot welds done by a human way excede robots. Chassis rail bends are not really a problem if repaired or replacements are done properly.

Don't think of selling it till you at least put a good deal of kays on it. You need to see how the tyres wear.

Neil.

That's true, and get someone to drive behind you for a bit to see if the car is driving straight or not. I had a friend tell me my car drove like a crab so we swapped cars and it seriously did look like it. (it wasn't the line)

Also I know of another r34 that got hit the same way, car was doing about 60-70 and hit the line which was stationary. The line was written off.

Thanks guys,

Some good points, makes sense.

Thankfully it looks like the car will be written off, my panel beater seems pretty dam sure of this, the chassis and suspension are both damaged.

We'll see what the insurance assesor sais tomorrow morning!

From my experience high quality repairs are better than factory building. Spot welds done by a human way excede robots. Chassis rail bends are not really a problem if repaired or replacements are done properly.

Don't think of selling it till you at least put a good deal of kays on it. You need to see how the tyres wear.

Neil.

I don't doubt what you say; if you find a good shop and they spend the time then I'm sure you'll have no problems. However, I think the problem is probably mostly placebo (or a poorly done job); because you know the car has been shunted there is always that nagging doubt.

You're also likely to loose out on reselling due to repair (any buyer worth their salt will either walk away or try and use it to bargin), so having it written off is probably a good thing for most people.

Yeah, I totally agree. If I looked at a car that had any sign off a hard hit I'd simply walk away, wouldn't even bother trying to bargain.

The insurance assessor has had a look and just need to crunch the numbers, so hopefully it'll be writen off :)

Yeah, I totally agree. If I looked at a car that had any sign off a hard hit I'd simply walk away, wouldn't even bother trying to bargain.

The insurance assessor has had a look and just need to crunch the numbers, so hopefully it'll be writen off :rolleyes:

:) BARSTARD, The assessor has instructed the panelbeater to repair it.

Panel Beater assues me he will take his time do the job properly, and it will be good as new.

Guess I'll have to hope for the best!

:D BARSTARD, The assessor has instructed the panelbeater to repair it.

Panel Beater assues me he will take his time do the job properly, and it will be good as new.

Guess I'll have to hope for the best!

D'oh.

If you feel strongy about it why don't you appeal? You're the one being put out and you're not at fault. Can't you request another assessment by another assessor?

:P BARSTARD, The assessor has instructed the panelbeater to repair it.

Panel Beater assues me he will take his time do the job properly, and it will be good as new.

Guess I'll have to hope for the best!

Hi,

Don't agree to it. Remember, the assessor you are dealing with is the assessor for the at fault driver.

My recommendation is that you get your insurance company involved and ask their assessor to assess the car. It won't cost you anything and you won't have to pay an excess.

I was in the same situation a while ago where my car was stationary and hit hard from the rear.

The panel beater said he can fix it like new and this is what the at fault assessor wanted to do also.

I contacted my insurance company. I expressed concern on the structural integrity of the vehicle and my insurance company assessor had the car written off.

The minute there is talk of chassis damage the structural integrity of the vehicle is in question.

I would not accept any compromise on my safety or the safety of any passengers.

Contact your insurance company, they are looking after your interests.

Good luck

Cheers

Jo

Assessors are all supposed to be independant but there is often influence. Doesn't matter if their insurance company is not trying to exert the influence, the assessor might feel it anyway.

I was going to bring up Jo's car before since the situation is almost identical (4 door r34 hit from behind, question over whether it should be a write off or not) but I forgot. Luckily she found the thread!

  • 1 month later...
When I put in my claim form I actually wrote on the cover sheet of the fax that I would like for them to push for it to be written off.

Maybe you should talk to your insurance co about it mate.

The assessor is from my insurance company, I lodged a claim with them and have been dealing with them directly, since the beginning.

I stressed my concerns and asked for it to be written off from word go, but I guess at the end of the day their just interested in the numbers.

Car should be ready ina few weeks, my panel beater is still adoment the car will look and feel exactly the same, just have to hope the best I guess!

The assessor is from my insurance company, I lodged a claim with them and have been dealing with them directly, since the beginning.

I stressed my concerns and asked for it to be written off from word go, but I guess at the end of the day their just interested in the numbers.

Car should be ready ina few weeks, my panel beater is still adoment the car will look and feel exactly the same, just have to hope the best I guess!

Be completely anal do not accept anything that isn't to your liking...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
    • Should have taken that opportunity to slot in a twin scroll turbo setup. Maybe next time.
×
×
  • Create New...