Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all!! :ermm:

could someone please enlighten me on how an air/fuel gauge works?

ie: where does it take its readings from?

why does it sit on 14 under acceleration and at idle but when backing off moves upto 18 and hangs there for several seconds or until i accelerate again and it moves back to 14.....

cheers guys..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118161-airfuel-gauge-how-does-it-work/
Share on other sites

howstuffworks.com gave me a basic insite into O2 sensors. but id still like to know what its actually reading..

im guessing when the needle moves up over its optimal point its registring excess oxygen in the exhaust but when it moves below is it registering an excess of unburnt fuel (lower oxygen ratio)...

any tuners out there ??

i took this from this link Cheaply Monitoring Air/Fuel Ratios. i'm building the jaycar air/fuel mixture kit at the moemtn and the instructions that come with it have a fantastic explaination of the air/fuel mixture gauge.

All unleaded petrol cars use an exhaust gas oxygen sensor. As the name suggests, this sensor is mounted in the exhaust flow - usually in the exhaust manifold - and sniffs the composition of the exhaust gas. Specifically, it measures the ratio of oxygen in the exhaust gas with that in the atmosphere. It does this is to determine whether the air/fuel ratio is rich, stoichiometric, or lean. The ECU uses this information as part of its self-learning technique, . . . The most commonly used sensor generates its own voltage output, which varies between 0-1 volt. In round terms, if the sensor output is about 0.2 volts or less the mixture is lean, and if the output voltage is over 0.8 volts it is rich. However, the precise value of the output voltage is less important than its relative value - whether it is "richer" or "leaner" than the mid-point voltage.

The ECU constantly adjusts the mixture depending on the driving conditions. ie. if you are accelerating, you require more fuel in the mixture so the ECU tells the injectors to inject more fuel and resulting in a richer mix. if you're backing off, its just the opposite.

hope this helps

Edited by vannic

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Interesting....can't say I've ever checked it, have always just changed it in the off season as practice
    • Just checking, when we are talking about high temp fluid, are we all referring to DOT 5.1? I haven't had any issues with changing it every 2-3 years. 
    • Yeah that is still true AFAIK.....good brake fluid should be changed annually because it absorbs water faster which is more often than most mechanics would do it. There are cheap tools that check water% in brake fluid if you all scientific about it. I for sure would (do) run good brake fluid in anything that even casually saw the track like Murray said; avoiding the risk of "exciting" fade is worth it
    • Well, back in the day..... "race" fluids, which were essentially only really "high temp" fluids, used to absorb water more readily. So they really needed to be changed more often anyway. The coincidence of that being directly necessary along with it being what racers would do as a matter of course was just fine.
    • Does the high temp fluid degrade any different over time compared to normal one? That's one thing I've always been wondering. Because a track car is going to get the fluid flushed probably way more often than every two years and will see less kilometers driven. I would think the requirements are different. I'm running Motul RBF 600 in mine. Was recommended by my mechanic before a trackday and I've stuck with it since. Hasn't seen the track since but I've kept buying and using it for servicing anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...