Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Not sure if this is in the right area but I have a random issue with my car and no one seems to be able to isolate it? Its been to two mechanics about half a dozen times in total, we've changed a few bits and pieces but still happening! It went to one mechanic 4 times before he 'witnessed' the issue...to give an idea how random it is...

It's an R32 GTS-t manual, only mod is a muffler (came with the car). The issue I am having is really random...most of the time it runs fine...but sometimes it would stall, the idle would rise & drop all on its own or the idle would rise to about 2500rpm and stay there...it's really odd...it doesn't do it all the time or even consistently. The ONLY clue is it tends to run worse the less fuel it has - but that could just be a coincidence. I've had the car serviced with platinums to be sure...the AFM checked and recently my mechanic replaced coil pack 5 as it was 'burnt' out? - but its STILL doing it...? Any ideas?

Edited by 4doorHCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118241-help-random-r32-gts-t-problem/
Share on other sites

Hey Guys,

Not sure if this is in the right area but I have a random issue with my car and no one seems to be able to isolate it? Its been to two mechanics about half a dozen times in total, we've changed a few bits and pieces but still happening! It went to one mechanic 4 times before he 'witnessed' the issue...to give an idea how random it is...

It's an R32 GTS-t manual, only mod is a muffler (came with the car). The issue I am having is really random...most of the time it runs fine...but sometimes it would stall, the idle would rise & drop all on its own or the idle would rise to about 2500rpm and stay there...it's really odd...it doesn't do it all the time or even consistently. The ONLY clue is it tends to run worse the less fuel it has - but that could just be a coincidence. I've had the car serviced with platinums to be sure...the AFM checked and recently my mechanic replaced coil pack 5 as it was 'burnt' out? - but its STILL doing it...? Any ideas?

vacuum leak causes this, or a hold on the rubber front pipe on the turbo AFTER the afm could be leaking.. sounds exactly like the problem i had. ended up being a hole burnt thru the feed pipe to the turbo... in otherwords, the engine is getting more air than the afm is reading, running super lean, and on idle can stall, and vary revs constantly

****UPDATE****

Now we have a new element to the problem! - the car won't rev past 2500rpm...and when you press it past that point, it sounds/feels like its hitting the limiter...?? - this is particularly annoying on the freeway...as 2500 in 5th is about 75-80km...still sound like a post-AFM leak?

I'm pulling the intake out this weekend and having a good look at it, any further ideas won't hurt...

:D

Unplugg the oxygen sensor and see if it fixes the problem (leave the oxygen sensor in the dump pipe), if it fixes the problem then you have a stuffed oxygen sensor, i had a simillar prolem with my car a couple of weeks ago.Let us know if it fixes it

Edited by nizmo_freek
  • 4 weeks later...

Hey all...I checked the inlet side and everything is fine...it started to play up again so I disconnedcted the o2 sensor and it drove perfectly for about 150km but now its doing it again...??? Could this still be the o2 sensor? I might try with the multi meter...any ideas would be great...BLKGTS4R32 pm'd be as he's having the same issues!!! :O

I basically pulled the whole inlet out and checked for leaks..(as suggested above)...everything is fine...I didn't check the AFM as such...that said, I have a Q45 on the way for it...I am suspecting its the o2 sensor...but would rather be sure as I've spent 4-500 already 'chasing' this thing... :O

Also, R32 GTS-t o2 sensor can only be purchased thru Nissan I am told? $165.00 + GST...

Thanks guys - much appreciated!!!

Nismo I AM in Melbourne, I have an AFM on the way (doing a 'round of mods atm - FMIC, 2535 etc) and I am planning on getting the ECU remapped - would this help? ie if there is an issue with the ECU, will a re-map correct this? Also - and apologies for being off topic - can you suggest anyone skilled in the art of re-mapping? I want to retain the factory ecu...

Edited by 4doorHCR32

RE-mapped ECU woudn't help if the ECU is dead. and "can you suggest anyone skilled in the art of re-mapping?" Nope the stuff i've heard abuot ppl in melb remapped stock ecu not good.

Thanks guys - much appreciated!!!

Nismo I AM in Melbourne, I have an AFM on the way (doing a 'round of mods atm - FMIC, 2535 etc) and I am planning on getting the ECU remapped - would this help? ie if there is an issue with the ECU, will a re-map correct this? Also - and apologies for being off topic - can you suggest anyone skilled in the art of re-mapping? I want to retain the factory ecu...

I think that you may have the problem that i had with my r32

Does ur cars rpm "hunt" ie. the revs go up and down when u stop or start it up ?

Does it idle at like 2000 to 2500 RPM once it stops hunting.(if it stops hunting at all)

I had this issue with my car and i tried everything to fix it but in the end it was the Cold Start Solenoid. Located just under the cross over pipe, between ur intake plume and the cam cover. It will look like a thin square "floppy disk" shaped object with two pipes going into each side of it, my guess it that it is this.

Rb motors are very prone for stuffing up this part. get a new one Not a second hand one cos you will probably have the same problem.

Hope this helps.

Thanks R32FOURDOOR (and awesome choice in vehicle might I add... :laugh: ) - I thionk I have found the solution!

BLKGTS4R32 came good with this link;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=113284&hl=

I've given it a shot and will be putting it all back together tomorrow for a test...fingers crossed!

:D

I had this problem that things i changed were:

AFM

TPS sensor

Adjusted idle screw

Cleaned out trottle body+butterfly

Cleaned AAC valve

Reset ecu

took air filter off(HKS TYPE)

Changed that solenoid on the aac valve(gold round thing on back of intake plume)

Changed oil

Changed coolant

cleaned everthing that i could

None of this changed my problem at all

In the end was Cold Start Sensor, im pretty sure that this is ur problem

Heres some pic of where it is.

Ps ill try and also get part no of it

post-24677-1150885180.jpg

post-24677-1150885214.jpg

  • 5 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It's a fun daydream but personally just looking at OEM implementations of twincharged engines like the recent Volvo engines it makes my head hurt. So, so much complexity compared to even other GDI turbo inline 4s. 
    • Yep super expensive, awesome. It would be a cool passion project if I had the money.
    • Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.
    • So it's a ginormous undertaking that will be a massive headache but will be sorta cool if pulled off right. And also expensive. I'm sure it'll be as expensive as buying the car itself. I don't think you could just do this build without upgrading other things to take the extra power. Probably lots of custom stuff as well. All this assuming the person has mechanical knowledge. I'm stupid enough to try it but smart enough to realize there's gonna be mistakes even with an experienced mechanic. I'm a young bloke on minimum wage that gets dopamine from air being moved around and got his knowledge from a Donut video on how engines work.]   Thanks for the response though super informative!
    • Yes, it is entirely possible to twincharge a Skyline. It is not....without problems though. There was a guy did it to an SOHC RB30 (and I think maybe it became or already was a 25/30) in a VL Commode. It was a monster. The idea is that you can run both compressors at relatively low pressure ratios, yet still end up with a quite large total pressure ratio because they multiply, not add, boost levels. So, if the blower is spun to give a 1.4:1 PR (ie, it would make ~40 kPa of boost on its own) and the turbo is set up to give a 1.4:1 PR also, then you don't get 40+40 = 80 kPa of boost, you get 1.4*1.4, which is pretty close to 100 kPa of boost. It's free real estate! This only gets better as the PRs increase. If both are set up to yield about 1.7 PR, which is only about 70 kPa or 10ish psi of boost each, you actually end up with about 1.9 bar of boost! So, inevitably it was a bit of a monster. The blower is set up as the 2nd compressor, closest to the motor, because it is a positive displacement unit, so to get the benefit of putting it in series with another compressor, it has to go second. If you put it first, it has to be bigger, because it will be breathing air at atmospheric pressure. The turbo's compressor ends up needing to be a lot larger than you'd expect, and optimised to be efficient at large mass flows and low PRs. The turbo's exhaust side needs to be quite relaxed, because it's not trying to provide the power to produce all the boost, and it has to handle ALL the exhaust flow. I think you need a much bigger wastegate than you might expect. Certainly bigger than for an engine just making the same power level turbo only. The blower effectively multiplies the base engine size. So if you put a 1.7 PR blower on a 2.5L Skyline, it's like turboing a 4.2L engine. Easy to make massive power. Plus, because the engine is blown, the blower makes boost before the turbo can even think about making boost, so it's like having that 4.2L engine all the way from idle. Fattens the torque delivery up massively. But, there are downsides. The first is trying to work out how to size the turbo according to the above. The second is that you pretty much have to give up on aircon. There's not enough space to mount everything you need. You might be able to go elec power steering pump, hidden away somewhere. but it would still be a struggle to get both the AC and the blower on the same side of the engine. Then, you have to ponder whether you want to truly intercool the thing. Ideally you would put a cooler between the turbo and the blower, so as to drop the heat out of it and gain even more benefit from the blower's positive displacement nature. But that would really need to be a water to air core, because you're never going to find enough room to run 2 sets of boost pipes out to air to air cores in the front of the car. But you still need to aftercool after the blower, because both these compressors will add a lot of heat, and you wil have the same temperature (more or less) as if you produced all that boost with a single stage, and no one in their right mind would try to run a petrol engine on high boost without a cooler (unless not using petrol, which we shall ignore for the moment). I'm of the opinnion that 2x water to air cores in the bay and 2x HXs out the front is probably the only sensible way to avoid wasting a lot of room trying to fit in long runs of boost pipe. But the struggle to locate everything in the limited space available would still be a pretty bad optimisation problem. If it was an OEM, they'd throw 20 engineers at it for a year and let them test out 30 ideas before deciding on the best layout. And they'd have the freedom to develop bespoke castings and the like, for manifolds, housings, connecting pipes to/from compressors and cores. A single person in a garage can either have one shot at it and live with the result, or spend 5 years trying to get it right.
×
×
  • Create New...