Best Bang For Your Bucks

[Baz]

Get a decat pipe and shoot flames. Just make sure you don't get caught with it

[Quinny]

What do you guys reckon about this? Is this about the best way to spend my money? The parts I have chosen have been chosen because they are supposed to be the best, not necessarily the cheapest.

Apexi Power FC - $980 (Nengun)

PFC Boost Controller - $410 (Nengun)

Blitz LM Tube & Fin or ARC Turn Flow FMIC - $1200 (Nengun)

Hi-Tech Stainless Turbo Back Exhaust - $1800 (Hi-Tech Mufflers)

Dyno Tune - $500 (RUF Performance or Silverwater Auto Services)

Total $4890.

Once this is in, I am hoping for around 180-200rwkw @ 10psi, and a mid 13 quarter would be nice.

Opinions?

Edited June 8, 2006 by Quinny

[WogsRus]

Humm lets see.

1) Power FC groop buy $960

2) Full exhaust form just jap, mild steel $699

3) High flow cat eBay $200 or free if you do it yourself

4) Turbotech boos controller the $22 one

5) FMIC from just jap $499

6) 3 sets of guages form JustJap $199

7) decent filter eBay of JustJap $100

all adds up to be less then 3k

Although these are not the chepeest to, thay do the job and they do it very well. I am not into paying for brand names just for the name.

for example and Exedy clutch is about 1500, same clutch made in same factory under ACT is $400, same clutch identical.

[Quinny]

I wanted to get decent parts, not cheap shit. The reason I wanted the Hi-Tech exhaust is because they have been proven to make 25rwkw just from exhaust, that is pretty impressive. I also want an electronic boost control rather than manual, and a decent cooler rather than a cheap one.

As I said, I chose the parts because they are the best, not necessarily the cheapest. You get what you pay for.

Also, my Exedy HD Sports clutch cost me $420...

[khunjeng]

u want air flow...get a decnet sealed CAI system...do urself a favor and buy a BNC CAI kit - give u 10kw easy at the wheels. best on the market but not cheep.

[Cubes]

lol..

10kw my arse.

I've had mine on the dyno running 1bar back to back with the stock airbox/panel and a K&N filter sticking up in the cool air from the fan.

There was a big fat ZERO rwkw difference from idle to peak power.

Unless its making some decent numbers (200rwkw+) the stock air box is fine.

Pods and intake mods are the worse bang for buck mod one can do on the skyline.

The real bang for buck is to concentrate in the following order.

1. Exhaust

2. Up the Boost

3. FMIC & up the boost some more.

4. PowerFC

6. Drop a nice panel filter in to your airbox

7. Bolt a bigger turbo on, then most definitely look at improving intake airflow.

I may have forgot something as I'm as tired as all buggery.

[paulr33]

couldnt agree more

[silver gts-t]

also dont forget the tune, it will also take a nice chunk out of that $3000..

and if your planning spending $3k then dont add up your costs to exactly $3k as i can assure you, you will need another couple hundred on top for things you havn't planned

[Cubes]

yes 3k sucks.. get bugger all, only 'just' wet your lips so to speak.

Silver gtst.. damn you've had that freaky pic of your self in your avtar for so damn long now.

[WogsRus]

if your exhaust is straight through, no restrictions and mandrel bend pipes, it makes FUCUK all difference. The dump pipe makes the most difference is a good exhaust system. The rest of the system, as long as it is free of sharp bends and good simple straight through design, there is nothing that can make is make any less power then a EXPENSIVE item.

Trust me I am a Mechanical engineer, and all I do every day is design airflow systems. I even designed my own exhaust system for my FWD magna, yes I know stop laughing, but my design was 1/2 the price of a GOOD exhaust system, following the same path as the stock exhaust, it is 100% legal and only 83dBA and it flows more then the so called SPORTS system.

With an exhaust you need to maximise airflow without causing the air to go turbulent too much. Turbulence = DRAG, and restrictions.

Anyway, it was just a suggestion, I am merely talking bang for your bucks.

You can get a bit more by choosing rightly.

[Quinny]

Thanks guys, I appreciate the feedback. I am a little hesitant to use cheaper parts, because doing things by halves only causes problems. Since I did my Commodore - I spent a whole heap of money, but it just didn't work properly because I skimped on some things, I have kind of adopted a "do it right, do it once" attitude now.

Realistically, the car probably won't get much more modification than the mods listed above, but I will have to see what the budget looks like down the track.

[BezerkR32]

You dont need to upgrade the computer to run 10psi

I have about $3000 to spend on mods for my R33 GTS-T, and I am just wondering where that money is best spent. I did do a search, but I got too many threads which had nothing to do with what I am after.....

The car is basically stock except a HKS pod, and exhaust (I think it is cat-back).

I was thinking of doing one of the following (though I am open to suggestions) -

1. Power FC computer, Boost Controller, and do a dyno tune with about 8-9psi.

2. FMIC (a good one, not a cheap crap one) and boost controller, run about 10psi, but I am not sure if this will cause problems without the car being properly tuned.

I basically want to get as much power as I can, but without taking risks on reliability. I would like to get the FMIC and the Power FC, but I just don't think I have the budget for it. Should I consider using the SAFC instead - the car will not get modified much beyond the mods I have listed (around 180-200rwkw will suffice).

That $3000 also needs to include labour for fitting, tuning and whatever because I am not too familiar with Skyline engines yet, so I can't really do the work myself.

Any suggestions would be most appreciated.

[Cubes]

Your right BezerkR32,

A friend of mine tried pushing over 11psi with his R33 and ran in to a fuel cut.

10psi in an R33 is boaring, a little R32 pushing 14-15psi with only an fmic and exhaust whoops its arse.

[Quinny]

10psi is probably a bit boring, but I don't want to risk reliabilty for a little extra performance. From what I have seen on here, 10psi is about the safe limit for a stock turbo, maybe down the track I will get a hi-flow or a different turbo, but for now it will have to do.

The main reason for the computer is so I can get the car tuned to ensure everything remains 100% spot on.

Basically, I want to get as much extra power out of the car as i can, but without compromising on reliability. I need to ensure that I can get in and drive the car anytime, anywhere without worrying about it breaking down.

[justin911]

12 psi is where its at

10psi is probably a bit boring, but I don't want to risk reliabilty for a little extra performance. From what I have seen on here, 10psi is about the safe limit for a stock turbo, maybe down the track I will get a hi-flow or a different turbo, but for now it will have to do.

[Cubes]

If you get an ecu 10psi won't be so bad, the stock ecu in the r33's is a nasty thing.

I've seen close to 200rwkw being pushed on 11psi.

Thats only 1psi away from 10psi.

[Quinny]

12 psi is where its at

Isn't 12psi really pushing the stock turbo? I don't want to push for the extra 15hp (or whatever 2psi is worth) if there is an increased risk that the turbo will fail.

If you knew my previous history with cars and the problems I have had, you mayunderstand why I want to avoid any problems with this car.

Edited June 9, 2006 by Quinny

[Cubes]

12psi is bugger all.. 13psi is considering pushing the turbo in my book.

It all comes down to the tune and your driving style..

If I had the car at the track I wouldn't push an rb25det turbo past 9psi.

On the street I would feel happy with 12psi as on the street the driving style is little squirts, no long third gear hold outs that generate lots of heat. Heat is the killer for ceramic turbo's, detonation is very nasty for them.

[Quinny]

I am thinking it is better to be safe than sorry... If I run 12psi, and the turbo fails, then the car is off the road until I can get a new one, that is what i want to avoid.

I don't think that detonation will be a problem, with an aftermarket ECU, and intercooler, detonation should be kept under control.

Edited June 9, 2006 by Quinny

[Tangles]

3k eh?

* Just Jap stainless steel 3inch dump pipe (turbo to cat-converter) $240 delivered - ebay

* 3inch highflow cat-converter $160 delivered - ebay

* intercooler kit, with pipes $450 - ebay

* fitting at exhaust shop for intercooler and exhaust - $500 (?)

thats $1400 approx., nice free flowing exhaust and the cool air charge from new fmic

* manual bleed controller - look her on the forums, $22-$100

* Power FC and tune - rest of your hard earned

Tune for 11psi should be nice and 'safe'

OR - save $500 and do the fmic yourself, thats great fun and a top achievement feeling once youve got it all sorted! I had great fun doing mine, and I feel real good about having a go myself. Use that $500 for a Bosch 040 fuel pump, installed with direct wire feed to battery, might even have $ left over for a Nismo fuel pressure regulator, adjustable, off Nengun for around $160 delivered.

Good luck, thats 3k spent and a bit of fun doing so. 3grand CAN go along way. Spend it wisely and get as much as you can for your $$$.

Brendan

Edited June 9, 2006 by Tangles