Best Bang For Your Bucks

[justin911]

ya 040 pump is only like $220-240 so u should have abit left from that $500

[thrtytwo]

dont bother with ApexiFC until youve got a turbo back, FMIC, CAI and probably a boost controller at the minimum ! otherwise your just tuning a basically stock car with no extra power. If thats all you want then thats fine, but as your saying you want to mod

[NickR33]

If you get an ecu 10psi won't be so bad, the stock ecu in the r33's is a nasty thing.

I've seen close to 200rwkw being pushed on 11psi.

Thats only 1psi away from 10psi.

I have stock ecu with SAFC and EBC and stock dump pipe... makes 208rwkw on 10psi... (however I have rebuilt motor with perfect compression and Tomei cams) ... even if you allow for a happy dyno its still almost 200rwkw... oh and I also have a 'crappy' Hybrid GT Spec cooler which works great... I guess its all a matter of working out what is good value for money and what is just cheap... that being said I would definately go for the Powere FC as on really cold nights I can hit the stock ecu's rich and retard (just feels like its pulling heaps of timing) and that is only at 10psi

[Quinny]

dont bother with ApexiFC until youve got a turbo back, FMIC, CAI and probably a boost controller at the minimum ! otherwise your just tuning a basically stock car with no extra power. If thats all you want then thats fine, but as your saying you want to mod

I will be getting it all done at the same time.

I am wondering whether the PFC will really be necessary, but with the FMIC, exhaust & extra boost, I think it may be a good idea.

Would these mods be ok without the PFC?

[Tangles]

I will be getting it all done at the same time.

I am wondering whether the PFC will really be necessary, but with the FMIC, exhaust & extra boost, I think it may be a good idea.

Would these mods be ok without the PFC?

use SAFC II instead then, save a few $$$

[BezerkR32]

Suggest you go see your local skyline guru, tell him your budget and goals and they will advise you. or email or PM me. you dont need a computer to run 10psi.

If I was to get the Power FC+Boost control and one of the GKTech coolers, then get it dyno tuned, am I likely to run into any problems? I have heard a few people mention fuel cuts etc that I don't really know much about. Is there anything else I need to know before I go and spend my money on this?

I will have a look at the exhaust as well, and see if anything needs to be done there, if I have the money, I will get it done too, if not, I will get it done later.

Also, how much power should I expect from this setup, at 10psi?

[Quinny]

Thanks guys, I got under my car to change the clutch on the weekend, and I found that my car has a good exhaust system (3" from turbo to cat, Catco cat, 3.5" out to HKS rear cannon - all mandrel bent) so I don't need to replace that. So I was thinking of getting the turbo hi-flowed instead so I can run a little more boost.

So with the FMIC, PFC and about 14-15psi, hopefully that will net 200rwkw, maybe a little more with fuel pump and injector upgrade.

Does that sound about right?

Edited June 13, 2006 by Quinny

[khunjeng]

lol..

10kw my arse.

I've had mine on the dyno running 1bar back to back with the stock airbox/panel and a K&N filter sticking up in the cool air from the fan.

There was a big fat ZERO rwkw difference from idle to peak power.

Unless its making some decent numbers (200rwkw+) the stock air box is fine.

Pods and intake mods are the worse bang for buck mod one can do on the skyline.

The real bang for buck is to concentrate in the following order.

1. Exhaust

2. Up the Boost

3. FMIC & up the boost some more.

4. PowerFC

6. Drop a nice panel filter in to your airbox

7. Bolt a bigger turbo on, then most definitely look at improving intake airflow.

I may have forgot something as I'm as tired as all buggery.

i don't disagree with ur order

Did I say K&N...? BNC mate we tested a full setup against stock an got 8rwkw gain on the same dyno on the R33 and 4-5rwkw on my FTO and thats only 112kwatw! This is a fully sealed airbox setup with a custom pipe to the TB with the intake taken from the front grille.

just putting a pod filter in replace of your std box is a waste of time..and hence your results.

Edited June 13, 2006 by khunjeng

[217/r33]

I will be getting it all done at the same time.

I am wondering whether the PFC will really be necessary, but with the FMIC, exhaust & extra boost, I think it may be a good idea.

Would these mods be ok without the PFC?

Mate just to give you an example and a good idea for your money. My old R33 1995 had Hybrid GT spec FMIC (KIT) Hybrid boost controller, cat back exhaust, iridium plugs, stock ECU. On 13PSI I got 230rwkw (on a hub dyno) and it ran butiful for one year and no problems. And the new owner is very happy. You will hear alot of stories about how much boost is safe. Hybrid implied that 12-13 is totally safe, also please set your boost on a dyno not by your gauge they are always off one psi each way. If your turbo is in good nik it will last for a long time. If your keen on a Hybrid GT Spec Kit let me know and I will recommend you and get you a deal for been a SAU member.

NickR33

I have stock ecu with SAFC and EBC and stock dump pipe... makes 208rwkw on 10psi... (however I have rebuilt motor with perfect compression and Tomei cams) ... even if you allow for a happy dyno its still almost 200rwkw... oh and I also have a 'crappy' Hybrid GT Spec cooler which works great... I guess its all a matter of working out what is good value for money and what is just cheap... that being said I would definately go for the Powere FC as on really cold nights I can hit the stock ecu's rich and retard (just feels like its pulling heaps of timing) and that is only at 10psi

NickR33, I wouldn't say that the Hybrid GT spec is crap. They are on top of the market and are one of the best performance coolers around. Have seen results my self. Comparing them to something like just jap coolers or eBay china import was just a joke in weight and flow difference and power gain was just amazing (even top brand coolers). They are also leading in Drift Australia competitors and they find them the best thing they have used, mind you they have been thru heaps.

Just my 5c...

Cheers,

Alex.

[Quinny]

Thanks 217/r33, there is quite a few people have different opinions on how much boost is safe, some people say 10 psi, some say as much as 14. Personally, I can't really afford to be fixing broken bits so I will be playing it safe with my cooler. I will also be using a EBC, so the boost should be pretty accurate.

Now that I realised I don't need a new exhaust, so I will spend the money on getting the stock turbo hi-flowed. So my combo will be:

Power FC

Electronic Boost Controller

ARC front mount

14psi or thereabouts

I suppose I will need Nismo injectors, GTR fuel pump and new fuel pressure reg.

I already have a good exhaust, HKS pod & HD clutch.

Anything over 200rwkw would be good - 225rwkw (300hp) would be great.

Anyway, I think I have the combo sorted, now I just need to sell my Commodore to get the cash for it.....

Thanks for the help everyone.

[paulr33]

an intercooler wont add any power and also boost is not the main concern its heat. heat will kill the exhaust wheel. run 300psi if you like but the heat associated with it will fry the exhaust wheel.

also on the stock turbo above 12psi will not yield any more useful air. it will dial in more hot air and actually loose power. more boost is only useful when your still in the effiency zone of the compressor wheel

[khunjeng]

an intercooler wont add any power and also boost is not the main concern its heat. heat will kill the exhaust wheel. run 300psi if you like but the heat associated with it will fry the exhaust wheel.

also on the stock turbo above 12psi will not yield any more useful air. it will dial in more hot air and actually loose power. more boost is only useful when your still in the effiency zone of the compressor wheel

ya from memory 12psi is about the stock turbo limit...the rest is just wasted in heat. And its not a good idea to run it on its limits..IMO 10psi for a stock turbo if u want it to last a while I guess depending on its current condition. The mods suggested will give u plenty of power anyway...they havn't even spoken about suspension/tyres to help make the car more drivable.

quick question : I have seen a lot about injector upgrades...for the ~200rkw car is this really necessary...I assume the std injectors are running well under their limits/duty cycle...although i don't know.

[Cubes]

~200rwkw the std injectors are pretty close to max'd out, unless you pump some fuel pressure in to them.

IMO 10psi for a stock turbo if u want it to last a while I guess depending on its current condition.

There's really 2 parts of the equation..

1. A bit of luck

2. The tuning.

Some turbo's let go on stock boost, some are fine on 13psi for years others let go at 11psi. But I strongly believe it all comes down to the tuning and maintance.

One who is a little more in tune with their car is going to pick up on slight det from possibly a bad batch of fuel, dirty fuel filter, clagged injector or old fuel pump and is much more likely to have their turbo last much longer.

just putting a pod filter in replace of your std box is a waste of time..and hence your results.

I didn't just put a pod filter in replace of the std air box.. The pod filter was held in to the stream of nice cool ambient air so there was ZERO hot air entering the pod. There was a zero power increase.

Due to the nature of turbo's they are much less likely to see power improvements when opening up the airbox at stock power levels, N/A on the other hand.........

How did you place the IAT sensor when you did your back to back as this may very well could have caused your interesting reading?

I should also add I ran without any filter on the end of the maf and once again the power result was a zero increase, not that it is relevant to the thread.

[khunjeng]

~200rwkw the std injectors are pretty close to max'd out, unless you pump some fuel pressure in to them.

do u achieve this with a better fuel pump?

[Cubes]

These cars are getting old, its always wise to replace the fuel pump with a new item (aftermarket bosch or walbro) when pushing it to the edge.

Wouldn't want that fuel pump to get lazy 6months or so after a tune, lean out then wonder why you've smashed a few ring lands.

[Quinny]

How far can you push the standard injectors? One post above says 200rwkw 'unless you get some fuel pressure into them'. Could you fit a different fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump to add extra fuel pressure (even as a temp fix)?

I am thinking that I am going to buy the components I listed before, get the car tuned for whatever power I can get safely on the stock fuel system (even if it is only 180rwkw or so), then get the pump, regulator and injectors (if I need to), then retune with more boost for around 220rwkw or so.

I can't believe that a set of 6 injectors costs like $1000. I got a set of Boch 30lb injectors for my Commodore (which is good for over 300rwkw), cost me $500 for a set of 8.

[Cubes]

People have pushed the std rb25 injectors as far as 250rwkw.

200rwkw is fine on std pressure.. If you want much more then you should start looking at fuel pressure to lower the duty cycle.

The exact figure.. It all depend on the dyno.

[Quinny]

Ok, I might get a new pump and reg, then see what the tuner can do. If I need new injectors, I will have to look into getting some.

[mad082]

an intercooler wont add any power

a front mount will add power. i noticed a power gain from adding a front mount and i didn't change the boost. and if they really don't add power then give the A.C.C.C a call and get them to stop all of the intercooler manufacturers from saying they do.

[Muffa180]

Hi there,

You dont need a power fc to make 180 to 200 kws @ wheels from an RB25. I have seen at least 30 R33's make that power with standard ecu's in manual and auto.

happy modifying. Michael...