Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 138
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

it might actually focus some time n effort on the 6000 dropoff

i could feel the power drop on the dragstrip at heathcote

changing past 6 grand felt slower at the strip.

annd... what did you manage to run?

as per the 0-100 times thread the first 60ft is pretty damn important.

it might actually focus some time n effort on the 6000 dropoff

i could feel the power drop on the dragstrip at heathcote

changing past 6 grand felt slower at the strip.

I am surprised that is has taken so long. That would piss me off if I realised a flat spot like that.

ive got a question relating to all this.....

when i used to have my safc2 i made 195kw or so at 10psi...

and with my powerfc i make like 195kw on 12psi.....

Now i no the airflow setting in the pfc is pretty much the same as the safc2s main function... so ive never understood why it makes more... ?

and also with the pfc if you up the timing it adds power etc... but how come i made the same power with the less boost and i didnt have to changing the timing with the safc2 ????

also before anyone ses 'crap tune' the pfc was tuned by the same mechanic who tuned the safc2 originaly.. same dyno etc etc...

and also previous differant mechanics tuning my pfc got the same result.. around 195kw

so yeah how does that work ?? cause ive seen other ppl with safc2's and they also seem to make in the 190kw mark with only 10psi.... ???

ive got a question relating to all this.....

when i used to have my safc2 i made 195kw or so at 10psi...

and with my powerfc i make like 195kw on 12psi.....

Now i no the airflow setting in the pfc is pretty much the same as the safc2s main function... so ive never understood why it makes more... ?

and also with the pfc if you up the timing it adds power etc... but how come i made the same power with the less boost and i didnt have to changing the timing with the safc2 ????

also before anyone ses 'crap tune' the pfc was tuned by the same mechanic who tuned the safc2 originaly.. same dyno etc etc...

and also previous differant mechanics tuning my pfc got the same result.. around 195kw

so yeah how does that work ?? cause ive seen other ppl with safc2's and they also seem to make in the 190kw mark with only 10psi.... ???

When you lean out the A/F ratios with the SAFC it also advances the ignition timing at the same time. Remember all the SAFC does is to change the voltage from the AFM that the ECU sees. Usually that means reducing the voltage to lean out the A/F ratios and overcome the Rich part of the Rich and Retard ECU mapping. By reducing the voltage the ECU thinks the engine is operating at a lower load and hence stops (or at least reduces) the Retard part of the Rich and Retard mapping.

This means that you have to compromise the tune, sometimes you want to go a little bit leaner but you can’t because you get pre-ignition from the advanced ignition timing. Up to a certain power level (usually 185 – 200 rwkw on an RB25DET) this is not too much of a compromise. But once you go over that power level, the compromise starts to get greater, exponentially.

That’s the advantage of the Power FC you can control the fuel and ignition independently, no compromise required. This really comes into it own once you get past that power level. As yet I havn’t been able to find the upper limit of a Power FC, certainly 1100 bhp is not it.

The power output of an engine can be considered to be like a chain, only as good as its weakest link. For example if you have an exhaust that will only flow 195 rwkw of air, then tuning the engine slightly better won’t make anywhere near as much difference as if it had a 300 rwkw capable exhaust.

In relation to the 10 psi versus the 12 psi, the standard turbo really gets pretty inefficient at 12 psi and starts to heat up the airflow. If the intercooler isn’t up to it (removing that excess heat) then the extra boost won’t actually manifest itself in extra power. This is particularly noticeable on the dyno when you have only a fan, not 180kph air flow as you would have on the road.

:whistling: cheers :P

Edited by Sydneykid

yeah had the safc in winter.. but also had the pfc done in summer and in winter... have had the pfc retuned a couple of times now for various reasons hehe :rofl:

his dyno runs were also done at different times of the year. pfc in summer, safc in winter, so there would be a bit of a difference there as well, even if it is only a few kw.

i can make any dyno figure you like at the end of the day as well

stick the air inlet temp up the exhaust and then remove the shootout mode parameters. or even just dial in more manual correction, change the ramp rate and so on. the dyno is useful as a tuning tool and good for back to back comparision when used on the same dyno with the same settings. this is the point of shootout mode, to lock those settings and compensate for airtemp changes.

if you have a run and it says RR015 and then a run of RR013 the results will be different, same with AT and IT.

Ramp rate

intake temp

ambient temp

not sure if your implying my safc2 figures were doctered up abit by the tuner :rofl: by like i said i did get the 13.4 with the safc2.. which is pretty much onpar with what youd get with a pfc..

anyways not stating one is better than the other... was merely asking a question :)

quinny - what mods have you decided on?

over or under budget?

:)

Most likely over budget - but I should be used to that by now. :rofl:

Power FC

ARC Turn-Flow FMIC

EBC

I am undecided yet if I should get a hi-flow. I could get a GCG one, but that would blow the budget completely, or I could get a Slide Performance one, but I am not sure about using a bush bearing turbo.

I will either:

1: get the above mods and a GCG hi-flow. Get as much power as i can with the standard fuel system then retune it later when I get a new pump & injectors

2: Get the above mods, maybe a Slide Performance hi-flow and spend the rest on giving the car a tune up (new coilpacks etc).

I need to sell my Commodore first (hopefully soon), once I have the money I will make up my mind.

i guess at the end of the day

if you turn the car off unexpectedly or you have to

then theres a big risk youll kill the bearings in the plain bearing turbo

That is what I am thinking, I have been burnt using cheaper parts before, hence the reason I am going for good parts rather than cheaper parts.

Ultimately, my car needs to start first time, every time. I can't afford to have the car off the road for any reason, so if I have to spend a little more money to ensure that, then so be it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Now that the break-in period for both clutch and transmission is nearly over I'd like to give some tips before I forget about everything that happened, also for anyone searching up how to do this job in the future: You will need at least 6 ton jack stands at full extension. I would go as far as to say maybe consider 12 ton jack stands because the height of the transmission + the Harbor Freight hydraulic platform-style transmission jack was enough that it was an absolute PITA getting the transmission out from under the car and back in. The top edge of the bellhousing wants to contact the subframe and oil pan and if you're doing this on the floor forget about trying to lift this transmission off the ground and onto a transmission jack from under the car. Also do not try to use a scissor jack transmission lift. You have to rotate the damn thing in-place on the transmission jack which is hard enough with an adjustable platform and a transmission cradle that will mostly keep the transmission from rolling off the jack but on a scissor lift with a tiny non-adjustable platform? Forget it. Use penetrating oil on the driveshaft bolts. I highly recommend getting a thin 6 point combination (box end + open end) wrench for both the rear driveshaft and front driveshaft and a wrench extension. These bolts are on tight with very little space to work with and those two things together made a massive difference. Even a high torque impact wrench is just the wrong tool for the job here and didn't do what I needed it to do. If your starter bolts aren't seized in place for whatever reason you can in fact snake in a 3/8 inch ratchet + 6 point standard chrome socket up in there and "just" remove the bolts for the starter. Or at least I could. It is entirely by feel, you can barely fit it in, you can barely turn the stupid ratchet, but it is possible. Pull the front pipe/downpipe before you attempt to remove the transmission. In theory you don't have to, in practice just do it.  When pulling the transmission on the way out you don't have to undo all the bolts holding the rear driveshaft to the chassis like the center support bearing and the rear tunnel reinforcement bar but putting the transmission back in I highly recommend doing this because it will let you raise the transmission without constantly dealing with the driveshaft interfering in one way or another. I undid the bottom of the engine mount but I honestly don't know that it helped anything. If you do this make sure you put a towel on the back of the valve cover to keep the engine from smashing all the pipes on the firewall. Once the transmission has been pulled back far enough to clear the dowels you need to twist it in place clockwise if you're sitting behind the transmission. This will rotate the starter down towards the ground. The starter bump seems like it might clear if you twist the transmission the other way but it definitely won't. I have scraped the shit out of my transmission tunnel trying so learn from my mistake. You will need a center punch and an appropriate size drill bit and screw to pull the rear main seal. Then use vice grips and preferably a slide hammer attachment for those vice grips to yank the seal out. Do not let the drill or screw contact any part of the crank and clean the engine carefully after removing the seal to avoid getting metal fragments into the engine. I used a Slide Hammer and Bearing Puller Set, 5 Piece from Harbor Freight to pull the old pilot bearing. The "wet paper towel" trick sucked and just got dirty clutch water everywhere. Buy the tool or borrow it from a friend and save yourself the pain. It comes right out. Mine was very worn compared to the new one and it was starting to show cracks. Soak it in engine oil for a day in case yours has lost all of the oil to the plastic bag it comes in. You may be tempted to get the Nismo aftermarket pilot bearing but local mechanics have told me that they fail prematurely and if they do fail they do far more damage than a failed OEM pilot bushing. I mentioned this before but the Super Coppermix Twin clutch friction disks are in fact directional. The subtle coning of the fingers in both cases should be facing towards the center of the hub. So the coning on the rearmost disk closest to the pressure plate should go towards the engine, and the one closest to the flywheel should be flipped the other way. Otherwise when you torque down the pressure plate it will be warped and if you attempt to drive it like this it will make a very nasty grinding noise. Also, there is in fact an orientation to the washers for the pressure plate if you don't want to damage the anodizing. Rounded side of the washer faces the pressure plate. The flat side faces the bolt head. Pulling the transmission from the transfer case you need to be extremely careful with the shift cover plate. This part is discontinued. Try your best to avoid damaging the mating surfaces or breaking the pry points. I used a dead blow rubber hammer after removing the bolts to smack it sideways to slide it off the RTV the previous mechanic applied. I recommend using gasket dressing on the OEM paper gasket to try and keep the ATF from leaking out of that surface which seems to be a perpetual problem. Undoing the shifter rod end is an absolute PITA. Get a set of roll pin punches. Those are mandatory for this. Also I strongly, strongly recommend getting a palm nailer that will fit your roll pin punch. Also, put a clean (emphasis on clean) towel wrapped around the back end of the roll pin to keep it from shooting into the transfer case so you can spend a good hour or two with a magnet on a stick getting it out. Do not damage the shifter rod end either because those are discontinued as well. Do not use aftermarket flywheel bolts. Or if you do, make sure they are exactly the same dimensions as OEM before you go to install them. I have seen people mention that they got the wrong bolts and it meant having to do the job again. High torque impact wrench makes removal easy. I used some combination of a pry bar and flathead screwdriver to keep the flywheel from turning but consider just buying a proper flywheel lock instead. Just buy the OS Giken clutch alignment tool from RHDJapan. I hated the plastic alignment tool and you will never be confident this thing will work as intended. Don't forget to install the Nismo provided clutch fork boot. Otherwise it will make unearthly noises when you press the clutch pedal as it says on the little installation sheet in Japanese. Also, on both initial disassembly and assembly you must follow torque sequence for the pressure plate bolts. For some reason the Nismo directions tell you to put in the smaller 3 bolts last. I would not do this. Fully insert and thread those bolts to the end first, then tighten the other larger pressure plate bolts according to torque sequence. Then at the end you can also torque these 3 smaller bolts. Doing it the other way can cause these bolts to bind and the whole thing won't fit as it should. Hope this helps someone out there.
    • Every one has seemed to of have missed . . . . . . . The Mazda Cosmo . . . . . . what a MACHINE ! !
    • I might have gone a little more South Efrican.  But this is off topic.   😍😍 FD 😍😍
×
×
  • Create New...