Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have made a custom temperature gauge to show ambient, intake, oil and turbo temps. I have installed the ambient probe in the bumper area, intake probe right before the throttle body, oil probe in a filter sandwich plate but not sure on the turbo probe. I have the option of either having a probe that is mounted into the upper dump pipe right next to the flange (measures exhaust gas temp), or a thermocouple washer that is bolted directly onto the turbo exhaust flange (measures the turbo housing temp). Any opinions on which would be better? and why? The speed of the response of either thermocouple is very fast.

I have attached a pic for those who want to see the custom gauge.

post-1179-1147851676.jpg

I should have said this before - I will not be putting the EGT probe before the turbo as I'm not willing to pull the turbo and manifold off to fit a temperature probe.

R33S2 - yeah - I designed and made it myself. There's a bit of circuitry and programming behind it though.

Yes you want to know the EGT out of the engine not the turbo for the reading to have any real significance . If it is the washer type thermocouple you may be able to fit it behind a turbine housing mounting nut though put another washer between it and the nut .

Is the oxygen sensor in the exhaust manifold or turbine housing with RB engines ?

Cheers A .

Could you do something like that in a Tacho, boost, speed etc?

The reason I ask is I've got the microtech Hand controller but the readout is small and I cant monitor just one without all the others, if you know the handset it displays upto 6 or so at once flashing to another 4 other ones.

Or post a link to a DYI?

So this is the same one as in a magazine about 6 yrs ago? A guy with a CA18DET S13 made one up...or is it different? Either way, it looks cool...i have most the parts to make one stashed in a box somewhere..only i couldnt get my hands on the software as the guys email address changed just before i was abotu to build it. So if its the same one id love to get my hands on the software...mind

A guy by the name of Martin had something similar fitted to his 180SX more than a couple years ago yeah, but he had boost, battery voltage, oil temp & EGT. I designed mine specifically for temperatures only because I already have a boost gauge. I used a PICAXE chip in my design and like Martin, will not be publically releasing the source code or entire design for it- Sorry!. If it was a small project that took a day then I'd release details but I've put way too many hours (upwards of 100+ hrs) into the design/construction/coding it to give it away for free.

Will I look into selling them as a kit? - maybe, but I've got other higher priorities in the coming months.

At idle and low rpm’s there is some difference in the EGT’s in the primary pipes, as close as you can get to the valve practically, compared to the EGT’s at the turbine outlet. But as the rpm and exhaust flow increases, the temperature drop becomes negligible. The only reason we measure EGT’s at the primary pipes is to pick differences between cylinders.

Keeping the above in mind, I would place the EGT sensor behind the lambda sensor in the dump pipe. That ensures it doesn’t mask the signal to the lambda sensor.

:fakenopic: cheers :nyaanyaa:

I would say probe in the exhaust gas.

A prone on the turbo itself would not be anywhere near as effective.

the lag between a high temperature event in the gas and a reaction of equal magnitude on the turbo itself would be no good.

Mmm - could the temperature reading from a probe in the exhaust gas be used to accurately determine when to turn the car off after a hard run? Or is "turning the turbo off when it's hot is bad" a myth?

Certainly turning off a hot, plain bearing, oil cooled turbo is a very bad idea. Not quite so bad with a ball bearing, water cooled turbo, but still not a good idea.

What you really need to determine if the turbo is cool enough to turn off is the core temperature. Which is neither the turbine cover temperature or the EGT.

If you have turbo blanket, ceramic coating or wrapping on the dump pipe, I suspect that either turbine cover temperature or the EGT would give you solid indication of what is likely to happen to the core temperature when you turn the engine off.

;) cheers :D

. I used a PICAXE chip in my design and like Martin, will not be publically releasing the source code or entire design for it- Sorry!. If it was a small project that took a day then I'd release details but I've put way too many hours (upwards of 100+ hrs) into the design/construction/coding it to give it away for free.

Hairy muff ;)

I eneded up buying a data logger anyway...but would be good to have a few more channels to montior various temps, instead of having to swap over sensors when i change things

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
    • Does anyone know ow what these two plugs are for and if they should be unplugged? Just put the dash back together and can't remember if these were plugged in before or unplugged! (Blue and white plugs) 🤦🏽‍♂️
    • Did some FASTing ...got the impression that the actual part# was a moot point ; seems all of these hardlines for coolant are discontinued/NLA... like, I take it you're after the hardline that bolts onto to the manifold...that's NLA according to amayama & nengun .... ...just to clear up some confusion, they typically mounted the AAC valve to the intake manifold somewhere near a coolant passage, so the body of the valve heats up & holds it open when engine's up to temp - no coolant flows through the valve, it's a mechanical, thermal connection.
×
×
  • Create New...