Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

acetone was the only thing i told that might remove it. unfortunately that ddn't remove the blob dropped in the carpet

Stay well away from this! I use this chemical at work to desolve film, laquer (sp?), paint, etc. It will take the glue away, as well as your dash!

Try a product called SHELLITE, this is found near the metho. I use this to clear glue left from labels and it works 5X better than metho.

But your best bet might be glue remover, this will most probably be a variant of shellite.

predator666 may have a very good point, but try to remove it and if you are not happy then cover it. Nothing like one of those ricey stickers on your dash :bahaha:

:bahaha: :bahaha: :bahaha:

Originally posted by INASNT

the double sided tape that came with the s-afc wont stick on top of the dash well enough, hence the superglue.

which coles did u get the superglue remover from?

and thats the exact make of the stuff

I know there's a couple of brands of the stuff - but the brand I've got is "Magic".

Just about any coles or kmart will have it near the superglue.

Originally posted by Black33

nah man, predator is right. Dont' get me wrong but - This is Serious!!!

The molecules on your dash may have changed forever, I suggest you immediately go and visit a Chemical Engineer or someone who is experienced in dealing with the transformations of polymers and get some help!!!!

if you see how much superglue my dash has you will freak. my dash has an actual plastic cover that goes over it and over time the glue has come unstuck. it's a 240Z btw.

seeing as how i will have to glue it back on though i don't think i should worry too much about getting it off.

the double sided tape that my safc is attatched to is fine

it holds really well

also its looks liek that standard stuff

coles stores varys which lines of products it does sell

but usually there is at least 2 or 3 types of glue remover

Maybe stick one of those little Taco Bell bobbing head dogs on it with superglue ...

.... when you go to sell the car, tell the guy that you wont take any more money for the free gift you've included, even though you're unhappy to part with the novelty, you feel the car is nothing without the dog and therefor it must stay.

Problem solved !!! Must I think of everything :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As you're looking at using a Link ECU, then large injectors are not a problem. But there's not really any need to go 1000s on an RB20 unless you're planning >>600HP on E85, which would seem unlikely. There are other options for injectors. The Xspurt ones are available from a number of places and you can get them in the mid 600s and 725cc, which is probably a sensible place to be. These are all EV14 based. If you are not using the stock AFM (at all, which would be the case with a Link) then a large turbo intake pipe to suit the ATR turbos is not an obstacle, so you should use one instead of a highflow. Results will be better.
    • Hey guys,  I'm after some advice and this here is the best place to get it imo. I was a member a looong time ago under another account, with a lost email address. Its nice to jump back on and see some of the same names still giving good advice.  I mothballed my car when i moved to perth in 2013, and after getting towed across the nullabor a few times it has officially done more km's on a trailer than under its own power. Now that i have started the process of tidying up and modifying it, i see the fruit available (and the fruiterers selling the produce) is different than back in the day. hence my questions, as i used to 'know' what to get and now, i'm not so sure. Engine wise the car (92 gtst) has a walbro 255, k+n, fmic, cam gears and and turbo back 3"exhaust. Wish list is a Hypergear high flow or ATR43G1, Link G4x and some newer injectors before a tune up. My goals are modest, only low 200's power wise. i know i could achieve this with less, but i've been swapping out old for new where i can. Every cooling hose has been replaced, along with mani gaskets, WP, thermostat and radiator, fuel pump and timing belt, tensioner and idler, and i rebuilt the steering rack. Regarding the injectors, the fruiterers all seem to sell what used to be considered quite large injectors. There are a lot of options for bosch 1000cc EV14's, and i would like to know if that is a suitable choice for my build. Is modern injector design good enough to run these at the low duty cycles that i likely would be? is there a downside to running a too large injector these days? or, would there be an upside to running a smaller injector at higher duty cycle? I can see that there are smaller injectors still available, but the ones i have seen specifically marketed for RB's are pretty large (see: https://golebysparts.au/collections/fuel-rail-injector-kits/products/nissan-rb20-fuel-rail-bosch-980cc-1150cc-injectors-turbosmart-fpr800-regulator-kit), and i dont know enough about them to say one not marketed for RB's would fit or not. I have searched the forums, and amongst all the posts on older tech, I did see gtsboy recommend EV14's, but no size was mentioned... again, i'm not clear on if the smaller size bosch injectors are also EV14's as they do look similar.  also, if someone can recommend a tuner familiar with RB's in the Geelong or West Melbourne area i'd appreciate it. Thanks in advance guys. Cheers, Rowdy  
    • FWIW the depth of the groove in the rubber pad is not super essential, the blocks are rubber and squish a bit. If you are worried an angle grinder will make a deeper groove quick smart
    • I mean, if you were to move the jacking points away from the original location, that is, away from the wheels and closer to the centreline of the car, then it will be more likely to overbalance and tip off the supports. Same as we talked about before. I was talking about moving for-aft. If the sill is bent outward or inward, then the car would obviously look unstraight from the outside. Hopefully that hasn't happened either. Again, you can do comparative measurements from the chassis rails to see if there is much deflection.
    • Can you elaborate what you mean with your first sentence? I meant move as in the bulge kinda seemed like it got pulled "outward" meaning it got pulled down and to the side with the jacking rail itself, so the load bearing bulge now sits lower than usual and is not level with the sill on the other side of the jack point. Either that or the jacking rail just got pushed in a good bit.
  • Create New...