Wtb: Turbo Suit Rb25

[juddieR31]

Finally got the funds to do the turbo conversion, basically what im after is a turbo for a low boost application, either silvertop 20 turbo, or maybe an R33 turbo if the funds stretch that far, anyone know of one floating about let me know.

I am actually looking at a turbo off a VG20DET that a mate has, does anything know much about these turbos, apparently they are stamped the same as a redtop rb20 turbo, but have different internals, any truth to this? Cheers- Juddo

[CATKICKER]

Finally got the funds to do the turbo conversion, basically what im after is a turbo for a low boost application, either silvertop 20 turbo, or maybe an R33 turbo if the funds stretch that far, anyone know of one floating about let me know.

I am actually looking at a turbo off a VG20DET that a mate has, does anything know much about these turbos, apparently they are stamped the same as a redtop rb20 turbo, but have different internals, any truth to this? Cheers- Juddo

not sure about the VG20 but depending on condition I wouldn't pay more than $100!

I just sold my R32 turbo in excellent condition for $200, you can find them for $100-150 if you look hard enough! Just post on NS.com in the tassie section, but GMB might be able to find something (he is good like that )

Todd

[juddieR31]

Cheers mate, I was told that the VG20 turbo was in between a silvertop 20 turbo and R33 turbo in size, this being the reason I was interested, it also comes with dump and lines for $150, what do you think?

[CATKICKER]

My opinion would be it sounds like a fine deal if it is in good condition...

What is it off, old skool 300zx?, if so has it been rebuilt before?? If not, it really is an old turbo!

Just check shaft play and oil seals. What are you using for engine management?

[juddieR31]

Running stock 25 ecu, Turbo came off a car that had a genuine 60k on the clock, has slight (very slight) shaft play, seals are apparently fine, made 154rwkw on 11 psi on an old skool 300zx. Has been checked over by my mate who is very fussy. Comes with all lines, dump and front pipes for $150??? Reasonable?

Does anyone know if i can run the stock 25DE ecu with the turbo setup?

Edited May 17, 2006 by juddieR31

[XRATED]

NO! NO! NO!

Even if it dose, your engine will last about 10min if your lucky!

The only way you can sucessfully turbocharge an atmo 25 is to lower the compression ratio, 1.6 or 1.8mm head gasket at a min, even then you can only really run 10-12 psi reliably anyway.

YOU WILL NEED TO GET YOUR STOCK ECU RE-TUNED!!! And yeah, Sam Cornell should be able to do stock r33 ecu's very soon. A stock rb25det computer wont run your car unless you back the timing out at base by 2 or 3 deg at min, less timing and lower compression ratio it'll just be a pig of a thing!!!

Not to mention a new clutch, weaker box, open diff? smaller brakes...

But hey, go nuts!

[juddieR31]

If I need to lower the comp ratio, why did the guy on here run his R34 with the same conversion for nearly 3 years, with not 1 problem????

I have heard shitloads of people have done the same and not had a problem, unless you know someone who has actually done this?? Cheers for the info, but im getting mixed stories, The ecu bit I still cant understand.

[grandmasterb]

NO! NO! NO!

Even if it dose, your engine will last about 10min if your lucky!

The only way you can sucessfully turbocharge an atmo 25 is to lower the compression ratio, 1.6 or 1.8mm head gasket at a min, even then you can only really run 10-12 psi reliably anyway.

YOU WILL NEED TO GET YOUR STOCK ECU RE-TUNED!!! And yeah, Sam Cornell should be able to do stock r33 ecu's very soon. A stock rb25det computer wont run your car unless you back the timing out at base by 2 or 3 deg at min, less timing and lower compression ratio it'll just be a pig of a thing!!!

Not to mention a new clutch, weaker box, open diff? smaller brakes...

But hey, go nuts!

At a minimum if your going to be building a 25 hybrid then i would use a 1.9mm gasket (should pull it down to 10:1)

There are 25 HYBRIDS that have been running on 16psi+ without any drama's (and these are drift cars )

Like Justin said, talk to Sam as he has played around with these and rates them highly!!!

If I need to lower the comp ratio, why did the guy on here run his R34 with the same conversion for nearly 3 years, with not 1 problem????

I have heard shitloads of people have done the same and not had a problem, unless you know someone who has actually done this?? Cheers for the info, but im getting mixed stories, The ecu bit I still cant understand.

If its the R34 im thinking of that was in FI a little while ago then you will find that he did run a 1.9mm gasket and also knock the timing

There are a few turbo's getting around at the moment and it depends on what you want to pay, what set up your going to be running and how much power you are looking for.

The other BIG thing that we need to know is what are your intentions with the car???

Cheers GMB

[XRATED]

Mate at the end of the day, I'm looking at doing the same thing if things go to plan.

All I'm saying, is don't expect it to be the same as a r33GTS-t, it just won't be. Aside from the engine, the gearbox and ratio's are different, the diff is different, the susp and brakes are different, the actual engine internals are very different, no to mention the fuel pump, fuel injectors and ecu. so on and so forth....

All things being equal, I'll be completing a similar "hybrid" style of thing. I'll be using a kkr 430 ( $899 retail ), top mount manifold, FMIC, oil cooler, upgraded clutch, turbo lsd, the car already had turbo brakes, GTR injectors, a fuel pump and get Sam to re-tune it, oh and a thicker head gasket.

The only reason I'm doing this, is for matter dollars. "The car is sorted"

My advice to anyone going with a "hybrid" style turbo conversion, is to ask them two simple questions:

1. What do you wan't from your car

2. Why not buy a turbocharged version of the same car you have/ or why not buy a 1/2 cut and do the conversion properly?

Why not buy a turbo version and save your self some money/ or end up with a properly set up car.

OR, JUST BUY A CLUTCH AND A NOS KIT!!!! MUCH CHEAPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bit Different...

But hey, that's my 2 cents worth.

Edited May 18, 2006 by XRATED

[grandmasterb]

Mate at the end of the day, I'm looking at doing the same thing if things go to plan.

All I'm saying, is don't expect it to be the same as a r33GTS-t, it just won't be. Aside from the engine, the gearbox and ratio's are different, the diff is different, the susp and brakes are different, the actual engine internals are very different, no to mention the fuel pump, fuel injectors and ecu. so on and so forth....

All things being equal, I'll be completing a similar "hybrid" style of thing. I'll be using a kkr 430 ( $899 retail ), top mount manifold, FMIC, oil cooler, upgraded clutch, turbo lsd, the car already had turbo brakes, GTR injectors, a fuel pump and get Sam to re-tune it, oh and a thicker head gasket.

The only reason I'm doing this, is for matter dollars. "The car is sorted"

My advice to anyone going with a "hybrid" style turbo conversion, is to ask them two simple questions:

1. What do you wan't from your car

2. Why not buy a turbocharged version of the same car you have/ or why not buy a 1/2 cut and do the conversion properly?

Why not buy a turbo version and save your self some money/ or end up with a properly set up car.

OR, JUST BUY A CLUTCH AND A NOS KIT!!!! MUCH CHEAPER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Bit Different...

But hey, that's my 2 cents worth.

I agree with a few things Justin but not all.

You can use standard Rb20 box (which will do the job) and that way it will all bolt upto the standard rear (or a 2way ) for a R32.

You can buy a 25DE for about $1k (compare that to a turbo halfcut)

The 32 shape is better in my opinion and easier to drift over the 33 (also cheaper) but if you were to buy a turbo R32 then it would be a RB20 (99.99% of the time) if you are to build up a RB24 or a RB25DET then your looking at about 3k minimum.

A 25 Hybrid (if you have a turbo set up) shouldn't cost you much more than $1500ish.

You strap a TD-06 to the side of it and 16psi and you have 250rwk's with a motor that still will scream and rev its tits off and have more torque than the 20 would!!!

You want to talk about reliabilty then speak to Finky about his

My 2cents and i look forward to seeing both builds in action at a future DrifTas event

Cheers GMB

[juddieR31]

Well, Like i have said, the engines in an R31 skyline, I bought it this way. The power delivery below 3.5k is awful, basically im just after something to plug the power gap. I only want to run about 7psi, which is why Im not after a huge turbo and im not after huge power figures. I dont intend to drift it (well not competitively anyway), I dont intend to race it on the strip, I just want to have something thats a bit more user friendly on the road, I hate having to thrash the guts out of it to get it moving, once its above 3.5k its a great engine, pulls heaps better than an Rb30, and its very smooth. All I am after is a few opinions from you guys as most of you know your shit when it comes to turbo engines, I'm a turbo neewbie and dont have a huge budget, I will have to money for the turbo next week, but I dont want to buy it if its going to be a waste of time, or I need to do a lot more internal work. I have spoken to a shitload of mechanics that said they cant see why its not possible, apart from the whole ecu drama and getting it to a decent tune on the stock ecu. I intend to have a decent size intercooler even tho I will be running low boost. Cheers guys- Justin

[XRATED]

Well then, that changes thing then aye. If it's in a 31....

I'd get all your turbo set up sorted and wait till you can get it tuned, then put it all together. If you just want a little more bottom end push, then get yourself an rb20det turbo a stock manifold a fmic, a one way valve or your brake booster, new zorst etc and get it retuned, if you keep it stock boost you will still have to put in a thicker head gasket.

Either way, it wont be cheap. Just cost it out. I think you'll be supprised.

turb $400

man $50

FMIC $550 at min

zorst parts $250

re-tune $600 odd at least

head gasket... 4/5hunge?

bits and pieces 2 or 3 hunge?

If you want better pick up, change your diff rato, or boof an rb30 bottom end under it then get it re-tuned, of have a look at a supercharger, there's still the gass option, or even LPG TURBO conversion?

[juddieR31]

Heres the damage so far:

Working turbo perfect size for my application, low k's, with dump and front pipes and all lines- $150

25DET injectors and stock SMIC-$25

All pipework- Still yet to aquire-Only after stock 20det pipework

Exhaust work will be one by a mate very cheaply, also spoke to a local high performance shop, who said that I can use the 25det ECU to cure most problems???? Is the true?

Manifold- $20

Various gaskets--cheap as the old man's a mechanic

Also spoke to a friend, who said that the head gasket should be fine on 7-8 psi, anything more and then I'd be looking at the 1.9mm Job.

[frigjam]

engine should be fine at around 7psi, anything more you would need to lower compression ratio otherwise you could do serious damage over time.

the ECU should also be fine at this boost level, the fuel map is fairly linear with respect to air intake, and the R33 ecu isn't too bad unlike earlier ecu's. worst comes to worst, i think you'll find the 25det ecu will plug straight in anyhow, same plug, same pinouts, most of the sensors are the same although I'd say the AFM probably differs so you'll prob need to change that too if swapping ECUs.

fuel, cant see a problem there with the stock injetors, if you put in the 25det ones justin you may need the 25det fuel reg as the base pressure on a non turbo *may* be lower as you'll find most turbo cars run higher pressure.

[juddieR31]

Cheers Pauly, your a champ

[Young GT-R]

Juddie

TRUST ME ON THIS

It will never be enough! You might get it all up and running and love the turbo. But give it 6 months or maybe less, you will want quicker. If you start from scratch it would be better, sell your car and buy an RB25det motor or there are plenty of turbo'd r31's around 30ET's, 20det's, 25det's and a select few 30det's. Or just buy my car

[juddieR31]

Thought of selling the car, but it there is way to much sentimental value in it to do that, I dont want someone else's hard work in another car, just wanna do it myself. Fair enough it still wont be that fast with the turbo up and running, but im not building it to produce 200rwkw either, to tell the truth i'd be happy with 140rwkw.

Thanks for all the advice guys, im gonna do it in the next fortnight, and will let you know how it all goes.

[toffy]

heres my suggestion , rb30et bottom end, put your rb25 head on, aftermarket ecu(do some research, i recall someone telling me rb20 ecu's are easy to interchange(well i was told rb20 turbo set up with rb25de engine and rb20 ecu)) add a nice big cooler stock rb25 turbs full zorst upgrade the fuel accesories dr drift tune and youll have a torque monster i think i answered some of your questions in there somewhere too . headgasket change would be advisable though. if you want 140 rwk just slap an rb20det in, youll love it, trust me lol

Edited May 28, 2006 by toffy

[toffy]

The 32 shape is better in my opinion and easier to drift over the 33 (also cheaper) but if you were to buy a turbo R32 then it would be a RB20 (99.99% of the time) if you are to build up a RB24 or a RB25DET then your looking at about 3k minimum.

i disagree with you about r32's being more driftable too , i think r33's feel more stable and have better steering lock also theyre getting very close to the price of an r32 atm but still to dear for a drift pig well if i had a choice between the 2 for a drifter id pick the 33 :PBJ: but id pick a ceff over either