Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi to all,

i need some advice on a problem which by other post sounds quite common in 34's

let me first infom you what i have had done recently to my 34gtt $ 6500.00 later i have my turbo hiflowed with trust internals from GCG, 550 cc injectors, apexi power fc computer,full hks super drager exaust,front mount, dump pipe, runnin 16 psi,walbro 255 lt pump, only just put in thinking this may fix my problem.

ok here is my problem when at hi rpm say 3500 upwards and anythin above 10 psi i get pap pap pap sound like a boost cut sound some times it runs good and some times it runs bad, it was tuned in brisbane and all went fine untill i return home I'm about 900 mtrs above sea level a bit colder temp as per say.

if anybody can help me with a solution or advice my mechainc says it now could be coil packs and recomends split fire items at a Cool $ 1000.00

any help would be great thanks heaps ......

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118336-bad-miss-in-high-rpm/
Share on other sites

do you have a blow off, that might be it, the spring could be too lose or too tight,

i heard the stock coils are good enough you can take them out check if they r burned from the side if so that might be the problem. but better off take it through a dyno run and hopefully that will pick up the problem.

then again maybe your not leting enough fuel in for higher boost

do you have a blow off, that might be it, the spring could be too lose or too tight,

i heard the stock coils are good enough you can take them out check if they r burned from the side if so that might be the problem. but better off take it through a dyno run and hopefully that will pick up the problem.

then again maybe your not leting enough fuel in for higher boost

o yes sorry i did not mention yes i have a bov and will play around with it tomorrow and check the packs too.

the funny thing is when i take my car down the coast it runs fine, i did that exact thing to put it on the dyno and it did not play up a bit even the stock pump was good for it ,it made 195 kw at the wheels at 14 psi stupid aint'it ......

I agree with your mechanic... the amount of R34 GTT's we've had in the shop with buggered Coils after being boosted is astounding. I also agree with his reccomendation for Splitfires

thanks for the info looks like i may have ta fork out some $$$ and put some new coli packs ..

but i cannot work out why it runs better at the coast and only some times it acts up, it's more freqent now it is getting colder.... :thumbsup:

thanks for the info looks like i may have ta fork out some $$$ and put some new coli packs ..

but i cannot work out why it runs better at the coast and only some times it acts up, it's more freqent now it is getting colder.... :thumbsup:

I have the same spluttering problem in my R33... on the weekend I will inspect the coil packs and clean them from the inside... also check out the AFM...

Does ur car stall after this problem too?

Is it just me or is there way too many people cars with these problems????

first of all dont pay for splitfires for $1000. buy them fron nungun for a cool $564 delievered to you door

i got mine 2 weeks ago... same thing is currently happening to me and i have stock engine aprat from boost to 10psi, front mount, full exhaust,filter and BOV,

when i hit boost around 4-5 to goes pap pap pap lags and then hit again...

but its not a smooth and quick delivery like most turbo cars should go...

but when i leave the car on 7psi its all fine no pap pap lagg...

i am also trying to find out the problem what i was thinking was maybe it was boost cut on the R34's or maybe my VTT is f**ked cause of the bad coils from before.

i have a apexi computer i want to put in and find out if it's the problem but not enough funds at the moment. BUT you have an apexi computer so i dont think there should be any fuel or boost cut. computer should have difused it...

Edited by ZERO
first of all dont pay for splitfires for $1000. buy them fron nungun for a cool $564 delievered to you door

i got mine 2 weeks ago... same thing is currently happening to me and i have stock engine aprat from boost to 10psi, front mount, full exhaust,filter and BOV,

when i hit boost around 4-5 to goes pap pap pap lags and then hit again...

but its not a smooth and quick delivery like most turbo cars should go...

but when i leave the car on 7psi its all fine no pap pap lagg...

i am also trying to find out the problem what i was thinking was maybe it was boost cut on the R34's or maybe my VTT is f**ked cause of the bad coils from before.

i have a apexi computer i want to put in and find out if it's the problem but not enough funds at the moment. BUT you have an apexi computer so i dont think there should be any fuel or boost cut. computer should have difused it...

thanks ZERO for the tips,

1st is this nungun an overseas mob or can you contact them in aus i would prefer a local person for these kind of buys

so you put your new coil packs in and it did the same thing is that what you are describing ....

mate your car has definatley a boost cut at 10 psi with a standard computer i found that out straight away when i got my car and have you changed the spark plugs that could be one of your problems and also your fuel pump for good pressure up high, test it at where you drive it most i have found it changes if you live where it is colder or if you live up from the coast .. :wave:

Hey guys with all the same problem, usually the problem you describe is related to incorrect spark plug gap. If you run above 10 PSI you should consider dropping plug gap down to about 0.7/0.8mm (or get splitfire coils).

The reason this happens is because when air is pressurised it becomes denser, therefore more bost = thicker air. Standard plug gap works sweet for 7psi but any more boost requires stronger spark, otherwise the spark is extinguished by dense air. Reducing gap gives less distance for spark to jump so therefore it is less likely to be extinguished.

As far as being higher above sea level goes. Once you go higher the air gets cooler, cooler air means more dense air. Im sure you can figure it out.

Before anything else REDUCE your plug gap!!!!

hey ppl,

I was also having this problem with my r33, anything over 4000rpm and i would get a bad miss almost feels like its tapping on rev limiter. Today i took my coils out and inspected them and found 4 out of 6 couls had little hairline cracks in them. I taped these cracks up with electical tape (couple of layers), put the coils bak in and took it for a spin...there is now no miss at all, so the tape will hold for now untill i get new coils. So id suggest inspect ur coils, and look closely:)

  • 2 years later...

I just purchased new JJR coils for $399 from just jap, installed them tonight, and the missfire is worse.... So pissed. Do you need to run a smaller plug gap still? Only thinking this because plug gaps are engineered for most efficiency in igniting all fuel and oxygen in that cylinder...so...not sure about that. Also hit 1.57bar on the stock internals, thought id add that, these 33's are strong suckers...pity about all the damn teething.

Missfiring R34 *ALWAYS* = coilpacks

My second R34, the first thing to get done on it was a set of splitfires....I never wanted to go through the frustration of those bloody things playing up ever again. Not doing them just wastes dyno time.

I always say to anyone buying an R34, always factor immediately a coilpack swap, the packs were just manufactured shit and don't last, no amount of electrical tape, silicone, gypsy tears will fix something that is inherent in the triggering circuit of these things.

Don't skimp on JJR bullshit, just get splitfires

Added some new iridium plugs (0.8mm gap) to the equation, saweet as! It only had NGK 5's in it, was told to get 6's, even 7's. Ran with some 6's. Comes on in first, tire smoke, smashes second, tire smoke...etc etc, who ever though autos could be fun.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...