Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After purchasing the kit 2 weeks back, i sent it in to get sprayed and fitted, and it came back last nite all done. Im real happy with the look i've got. I didnt want to change the front bar, as i didnt want to lsoe the factory blinkers and spot lights, as i use them heaps, so i ended up getting a front lip, which compliments the front bar. This was supplied from the top guys as Powerplay imports

For the side skirts i went through (www.fibrecrazy.com) to get these, and considering they were fibreglass the fitment was perfect, they didnt need any work to fit them, apart from the sanding. These are veilside E1's.

And finally for the rear pods, they are guniene east bear items, also supplied from Powerplay imports. These guys stock some awesome stuff, and i cant thank them enough for supplying 2 of the 3 items.

It looks pretty good in pics, but in person it looks nuts as you can see the detail. Oh and these were jsut quick snaps this morning before work on my phone, i will take decent pics this wkend :thumbsup:

kit3.jpg

kit2.jpg

kit1.jpg

Edited by mr_crust
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118358-bodykit-fitted/
Share on other sites

looks really POO!!

lol nah looks very nice mate... when i saw the skirts i was like nOooOOOO not a veilside kit... then realised they looked nothing like VS skirts and i was just blind... S2 33s always look good with a front lip ext. on them... that one more so :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118358-bodykit-fitted/#findComment-2178475
Share on other sites

well the wheels are 18", and i only purchased them 2months back, so im not getting anything bigger, and as i drive this everyday i dont wanna lose the ride quality.

as for lowering it, im scared to do it, ive had the kit for 1 day and i left my missues place and i already scraped under the frotn lip at stock height, so if i lower it, its only gonna be for show purposes.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118358-bodykit-fitted/#findComment-2181206
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...