Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, will soon be upgrading to a r34gtt stock mount. I was wondering if there are any modifications to make it fit, or is it a strait fit?

And to get to the r33 stock mount, can it be done by removing the wheel guard, or does the front bar have to come off?

And with the r34gtt cooler on the r33, is there a notible difference while running a bit more boost, such as 10psi?

will appreciate any helpful replies

Thanks,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118406-upgrading-r33-gtst-smic/
Share on other sites

I installed R34 Cooler on mine,

with the front bar off very easy to do,

since the front bar on have 4 bolts holding it, very easy taking it off.

its really a bolt on job.

performance wise, no idea, only when u increase boost!

Straight bolt up. No mods required.

Make sure you have the r34 duct too. To install the duct, the front bar has to come off. This requires a trim to get the bar back on. You'll know what I mean.

No noticeable increase in power.

What is a duct?

Can i use r33 duct?

Edited by mr_r33gtst

Must be some air duct to run from the stock hole in the bar to the cooler.

When I put my R34 cooler in, the bottom of it sat much lower than the stock R33 one. So much so that it's pushing the lower shroud down and creating another airduct under the bar!

I don't know how much difference that would make, but to theorise on your other question about performance, the R34 cooler has bigger in and out pipes on it, and the core is thicker. In theory I beleive this means you could push more flow through it. Dunno if 10psi makes any difference, i'm still running 7.

Considering the R34GTT's are 206kw stock, i'd say that this cooler would be good for at least that. I'd also guess that your intake temps might be *slightly* lower under load due to the increased surface area of the taller and thicker core.

I'm going to mount a JayCar temp probe in my intake somewhere and monitor the temps. If it all seems good, then i'll run it up to 10psi.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
    • You can probably scrub the rust with a toothbrush or something. After you get the rust off flush well with water to neutralize and you will probably want to also use a fuel tank sealer to keep it from rusting again.
    • The sodium citrate solution is designed to buffer the citric acid to keep it from attacking metal quite so much, the guy that came up with that recipe did a ton of testing on how much metal loss occurs over time and it's nothing crazy unless you forget about it for months:   
×
×
  • Create New...