Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, johns managed to find me an r34 crank from japan so there goes that problem (knock on wood) but now decidin whether or not i should stick with stock rods or forged 1's, he said he can get me forged 1's for bout another $1000, wat do u guys think? thanks, an sorry 2 keep askin q's but much appreciated...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118427-should-i-go-forged-rods/
Share on other sites

Viet I wouldn't bother with changing the rods, GT-R rods are pretty bloody strong, yours will be fine providing John checks them for cracks & integrity, straightness and balancing and makes sure they're all ok. If they turn out to be cracked or bent then yeah you're going to have to replace them then you might as well upgrade them.

I went to Predator Motorsport before I undertook my rebuild and they had a skyline in the shop there that was running standard rods and pushing some series numbers. They used it for their track car and he said they flogg the crap out of it and despite what everyone had said they were going just fine.

Mind you I would take the advice that bluprint was saying have them tested and balanced right.

My 2cents

Cheers

Imtorqing

As I said in your other thread I was making well over 300kw on standard prepped rods for quite some time (shot peened, balanced). They are a strong rod, the weakest point is the rod bolts. Put a set of ARP 2000 rod bolts in it and it will be good... just dont think of revving it over the standard 8250rpm limit. You can pick up a set of forged Eagle (H-beam rods I think) for well under $1000 now, so its cheap insurance (you have to keep in mind the standard rods were only intended to support the factory 180ish-rwkw while the Eagles are intended for much higher hp applications).

How much did you pay for the crank if you dont mind me asking? I personally wouldnt have gone for it, as it costs stuff all to get your current crank crack tested and reground if needed... you could then put the other few thousand $$'s you would have saved to some other stuff, like new turbos or camshafts or something. Just my opinion though :D

hi amaru, im payin bout 1200ish for the crank...supposedly its brand new from japan....yeh he's usin arp bolts...

yeh ive got a couple of garrett gt2860r -5's to put on...

yeh i no its a smarter/cheaper move if i do the r32 crank but its jus the fact that its a new crank that gets me...but then again i should b listenin 2 u guys kos u guys no wat ur talkin bout an then il actually start saving some money...

The cranks are hardened steel... you have to screw up in a big way to damage them. I would get your current crank checked before spending $1200 on a "new" one. The reason I say "new" is because they cost a hell of alot more than that from Nissan brand new... and as I have said, there is no stock in Australia or Japan availible from any official Nissan outlet.

If your current crank is ok, get it reground throw in some undersize bearings and spend the $1200 on a set of Tomei Poncams. I was running similar size turbos to yours (HKS GT2530's) and the poncams changed the whole car... best $$ I have ever spent on it.

My rebuild list for what you are after would consist of the following:

Standard crank crack tested, reground (if needed) with King bearings (dont use the Nismo/NDC bearings... they are a tri-metal bearing and the first layer started to delaminate on mine after a measy 10,000kms). Pro Engines JUN style crank collar fitted.

Eagle conrods with ARP 2000 rod bolts (they will only cost ~$300 more than getting your standard rods prepped)

Arias forged pistons (86.5mm so you can overbore and re-hone so its all nice and shiny and fresh)

Standard water pump, N1 oil pump, oil restrictor for oil feed to the head, enlargement of oil return galleries from the head, Pro Engines JUN style sump baffles, and a bit of a port/polish job just to clean up the head.

Thats just me though, and im sure your engine builder has probably reccomended along the same lines... I was just a bit shocked about the "crank might be cracked" comment when its a dead easy job to crack test them and save you money that can go towards other things.

Whichever way you go, dont forget the oil restrictor for the head and the sump baffles. Grab a Tomei gasket kit (comes with all the gaskets for your engine) which also comes with the restrictor. The kit is pretty cheap and really good value.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • One of the things that never seemed right was the handbrake. Put in some nice new Project Mu shoes. We figured the rears were out, so why not. We're right there. My handbrake never worked well anyway. Well, this is them, 15km later. 67fdcf94-9763-4522-97a4-8f04b2ad0826.mp4 Keen eyes would note the difference in this picture too:   And this picture: Also, this was my Tailshaft bolts: 4ad3c7dd-51d0-4577-8e72-ba8bc82f6e87.mp4 It turns out my suspicions that ne side of the handbrake cable was stretched all along were pretty accurate, as was my intuition that I didn't want to drop the tailshaft to swap them on jack stands and wasn't entirely sure about bolt torque. I have since bought the handbrake cables which have gone in. I'm very glad that I went to my mechanic friend who owns an alignment machine to get an alignment before the track day, because his eyes spotted these various levels of "WHAT THE f**k IS GOING ON HERE?". Turns out the alignment wasn't that bad, considering we changed the adjustable castor arms out for un-adjustable castor arms, and messed with the heights. Car drove pretty good with one side of the handbrake stuck on, unbleedable rear brakes, alignment screwy, and the tailshaft about to go flying and generally being a death trap waiting to happen! (I did have covid) (I maintain I adjusted the handbrake correctly, but movement caused shennanigans and/or I dislodged the spring on the problem side somewhat, or god knows what). G R E G G E D
    • Very interesting, im not sure how all those complications fit in to running a haltech instead of a stock ecu but I'm starting to think I'm a bit out of my league.
    • I just put 2 and 2 together. This is a Neo converted R32. The Neo ECU (in concert with the R34's AC controller) runs the AC quite differently to how the R32 ECU and AC controller do it. If you just drop it all in, it won't work. There is some tricky wiring required, including changing to the pressure switch that the Neo controllers want to see. I don't know what it is, because mine was done by a guru. It was a year or so after I did that transplant before he worked out what needed to be done.
    • Don't assume the AC relay signal from the ECU is +, some models including Stagea use an earth trigger.
    • Hey good to see you on the forums! Haha Considering this cars past with electronic issues I am leaning towards it being a wiring fault somewhere in the engine bay. When testing the ac relay in the fuse box there was no earth trigger. I am probably going to try "bench test" the compressor by giving it direct ground and power to see if i can hear the ac clutch click otherwise I will be pretty sure I have a dead compressor. If it does work then I will be tracing some wiring it seems.
×
×
  • Create New...