Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

THe R32's I've seen appear to all run the crappy H3C bulb.

Crappy because they are expensive and are not available from most places.

The H3 can be fitted but you are required to earth the headlights globe suround in order for them to work.

While your there you may as well slap them on a relay to prevent the common switch burnout problem the R32's have.

The R32's run the full current through the switch, not a relay as it should be done, the result, melted plastic around the contacts.

The only real benefit with the H3 globes is there are 30% and I believe 50% brighter globes are available from Navara (spelling?).

I went to autobarn for the H3C, they wanted $17 each for some generic looking globe.

Unsure what the early model ones run as they don't run projector head lights.

don't they? hmm.. might have to remove mine then :D

I was just looking at it the other week .. the "projector" is h3c.. and the other highbeam is a JA12V.. which I've been told is a standard H3

Non projectors 32 used H4 ( lucky bastards :nyaanyaa: ), i have a projector and i have to imported a H3C from RAY BRIG in Japan as the AutoBarn ones just not bright enough.

Projector lights are normally on late model r32 regardless gtr or not and they used that stupid H3C BUT late model N1 use H4.

I have had projector headlights with both H3C and H1 globes in mine. Not sure when they changed. Only physical difference between was the projector bulb itself. The H3C bulb was more smokey in colour to the H1 which was whiter (i think, i cant remember which way around it was now)

Mine has h1's in the low beam projector. sept 92 model, no idea about the others, haven't had to replace them yet.

Avoid narva like the plague, i bought a twin pack of the arctic white and they both died within 2 weeks of each other 6 months later.

  • 5 weeks later...

In QLD at least, a blue tinge is not considered to be a "blue" light and is not defectable.

In my R32 Type M '93 I just replaced the headlights with H1's (55W of course) and I replaced the park light that had died with a W5W - which is a 12V - 5 Watt standard bulb.

Funnily enough, the W5W parker bulb cost $6 on its own, when all the other parker bulbs (12V with slightly less watts) were 2 for $5 of $6, what a rip!

Some idiot before me put in a H1 - 100W Rally light in my headlight, instead of a normal 55W, it kept melting the fuse at the fuse box, and also melted the plastic around the globe itself. Let it be known to everyone, just because it's higher in watts, doesn't mean it's brighter. The new H1 55W I put in, is a lot brighter, and I now have good headlights, whereas before I could hardly tell I had my headlights on sometimes.

Fixxxer :D

i have a 91 R32 GTR, it had the projector type with the H3C bulb in it, they are soo cr a p at night i just couldn't hadle it.

my mate has a 93 R32 GTR & he has different looking head lights, they take a H4

easy fix, i put 93 R32 Headlights in mine & now run PIAA H4 Bulbs & can now see at night!

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sharing results from recent Liberty Walk R35 GTR, since they are still considered as somesort of a V36 Skyline. We do them turbos too. This are high flowed SS-1 models with ball bearing conversion done.  Car have managed to pull 485awkws @ 20Psi so far pushing limitations of factory built engine. The build list for R35 GTR enthusiasts as follow : HyperGear high flowed stock turbos in SS1 (G25-660 specs) Custom titanium intake pipes. Vspec performance titanium front pipes. Vspec performance 4" titanium exhaust. Upgrade fuel pumps. 1200cc injectors. Ignition coilpacks Hks intake plenum. Hks intercooler piping. Greddy intercooler. Greddy bovs. Top-secret coolant reservoir. Emtron ecu. Straight E85. Built gear box.  
    • Nah no bearings, just slip fit.  Would be a reasonably challenging but not impossible job to modify it to run bearings but I'm hoping that's not necessary as I may have well built one myself if I end up spending hours modifying it!
    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
×
×
  • Create New...