Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Coil Packs - What Are The Test Values? Help!

Zensoku

By Zensoku,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Zensoku Collaborator

Zensoku

Posted
Posted

My RB25 has started dropping down onto 5 cylinders very randomly, which I initially thought was a misfire with the spark plugs. Used to happen under load 3500-5000rpm which prompted me to change the plugs...

Plugs didn't help, and now it seems more regular now and drives like a "lumpy V8" most of the time now instead of the few seconds it used to drop a cylinder....

During the painstaking process of changing the plugs, I quickly put the multimeter onto each coil and got:

Cylinder 1: 852 Ω

Cylinder 2: 903 Ω

Cylinder 3: 687 Ω

Cylinder 4: 809 Ω

Cylinder 5: 859 Ω

Cylinder 6: 851 Ω

Now, these figures seem very high compared to the series 1 RB25's, (0.7Ω is the norm?) but I believe my coil packs have the igniter built into them. (unlike the early RB25's which have the igniter inline before the coils)

I have a Japanese Engine manual, but couldn't find anywhere how to properly test these coils and what the normal values are.... Can anyone help? Cylinder 3 looks like the culprit....

Oh, and the ECU self-diagnosis mode shows up error number 21: Ignition Circuit - "No consecutive ignition signal while the engine is running"

  • 4 weeks later...
Kirill Rookie

Kirill

Posted
Posted (edited)

I got the same "Error 21" yesterday. the engine sounds as usual and but for the "Check engine" light I wouldn't have noticed any difference.

I'm going to run power balance check one of these days - hope it will help to find out whether the prob is in one of coils and in which one.

BTW, how to get to the coils and spark plugs on R34? I'm affraid that I won't fix the problem without getting to them, but I absolutely have no clue on how to remove part of intake manifold (and what exact part shall I remove to get there).

Edited by Kirill
Luke 34GTT Explorer

Luke 34GTT

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have exactly the same problem and its driving me crazy! The engine check light comes on and it starts missing on one cylinder etc, and its is always a code 21 when i check it. The annoying part is that it is so random and it doesnt "stay" missing long enough for me to be able to check out what coil pack is playing up etc. Sometimes it will go for 3 weeks with out missing a beat, then other time it will do it 2 or 3 times in one day. Do you guys know, if there is anything else other than the coil packs, that will cause the engine check light to come on (code 21)?

Edited by Luke 34GTT
  • 2 weeks later...
Abo Bob Grand Master

Abo Bob

Posted
Posted

Look I've got no idea about the values you posted above but I can tell you that my coil packs died at a genuine 66,000 k's and having been around here for a few years now I can tell you that the R34 coil packs are quite likely to die between about 50,000 and 100,000 k's.

All you guys have the same issue.

Also I would not recommend getting second hand ones even though they may work fine now because eventually...

Splitfires are the way to go I'm sorry to say.

  • 1 year later...
PLYNX Mentor

PLYNX

Posted
Posted

Tried to find the same basic issue with my car and wasnt sure if it was the coil packs and didnt want to lay out 500 odd bucks unnessesarily. So I pulled then out cleaned then and coated them with polyester resin. It turned out to be the problem even if I couldnt see the cracks. Fixed It a treat

  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Bonnet clearance?
    • joshuaho96
      Magnetic Drain Plug Snapped in Half

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      On the bright side, at least you knew that it happened and remedied before anything happened. A friend of mine just took his Fiat 124 to a shop for an oil change and they didn't tighten the oil filter housing properly. 4.5 quarts spewed out and even after refilling + tightening the cap the engine has a tick now.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      So, more pain. The FAST manifold is a little larger than the stocker. This is problematic because there really wasn't much clearance to begin with, so going from 'barely enough' well into 'no' is sad based on the external dimensions of the thing, even though where it bolts to the head is the same. Result is the fuel rails sit a good 25mm higher, and this is a bit of an issue with the wiring that runs behind the motor, and the fuel lines, and everything else. When pushing the manifold on, it required a huge amount of force to crush wiring looms to fit it, sensors like the MAP sensor are about 1mm from the firewall, and the FPR just has to bend ABS lines to be forced into place. After some brainstorming and some sad drinking, the loom for some reason ran from the grommet behind the ABS sensor, then to the driver side head, then back to the passenger side head. So all of this was pulled back and stripped, a few wires cut and rejoined, so that the 'branch' was now on the passenger side's head as below: Before you basically couldn't see anything behind the driver head. This is much improved! The MAP sensor is now pointing up (instead of at the firewall) Brackets have been made up for the rail. The rails are for a LS1, the manifold is designed around a LS2 as it's base. Which of course has slightly different bracketry and water pump clearance, hence the mods people need to do. Should be hopefully mounted tonight. I spent money on a new FPR that is slightly more compact than my Turbosmart FPR1200. The gauge has also been moved to the rail. There's also apparently an ORB to AN Union instead of the adapter, because the ~25mm of the current adapter is going to make the difference. Provided this all goes together and arrives today, it'll be the totally not stressful attempt to start it.
    • GTSBoy
      Finding E-30 & E-85 in Sydney

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems like a pointless exercise. There is no E30 availability. Ongoing availability of E85 should not be assumed. Flex-fuel is the only sensible approach, so you can use E85 when and where you can get it, 98 when that's al you can get, and anything in between as you fill it up and drain it down. And if that means replacing the pumps, fitting a flex capable sensor/ECU/whatever has to be done to these Renault shitboxen, then.....so be it?
    • Duncan
      Finding E-30 & E-85 in Sydney

      By Duncan · Posted

      Sorry, I wasn't very clear.....just that the standard injectors are apparently good over 600rwhp/450rwkw which you won't get to on standard turbos anyway.....they are much better sized from factory than we are used to in RBs.
×
×
  • Create New...