Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, lately i have been noticing when accelerating in 2nd and 3rd to get a very slight shudder/hesitation at around 2500 - 3500RPM then perfect to redline... i have recently fixed my coils, gapped the sparks, ran injector cleaner and cleaned the AFM.. 100% its not a misfire... more of a jerky shudder but its very minor... nothing to be too worried about im sure but it just feels like the car is bit sluggish...

Mods are:

Full 3" exhaust with split dump

Turbotech set to 9psi (not spiking)

K&N Panel filter

My Suspicions:

1. Fuel Filter?

2. Stock SMIC not coping?

3. Clutch on its way?

Any advice is greatly appreciated!

Regards,

Sarkis

Hey Taso, im good thanks buddy! urself?

Nope theres no exhaust leak or any induction noise... the exhaust is about 6 months old and i perfect condition.. what other info do you need for dignosis? its a very slight jerk/shudder feel...

i've got the same problem. only started doing a day or 2 ago. i've been fiddling with the boost a bit as in the morning when the car is cold i've been getting boost cut till it warms up. i've put an air/fuel ratio guage on and it is leaning right out when it hesitates, then goes rich for the rest of the rev range and feels like its being held back.

i know its not plugs cause i only put new plugs in a week ago, (not even a full tank has been used since they went in), and i taped up the coil packs when i did it. i ran sweet until i put a dump pipe and cat on and boost cut was killing it. so i wound the boost down and it was still fine. then this hesitation started yesterday so i put the air/fuel gauge on.

going to recheck all exhaust bolts for loose ones when the car cools down. was planning on putting it on the dyno next week, then this happens. what a pain.

ok, well i haven't checked my exhaust bolts yet, but i did change the way i had my boost controller, boost gauge and bov hooked up. i had the boost controller working from the manifold side of the cooler, and i've changed it to the turbo side of the cooler. seems to have made it go away.....for now.

I dun get it sorry... could you be bit more specific? i have my turbotech hooked one end fron the hose off the intercooler pipe near the air filter box and the other to the acutator hose. I have followed the instructions from the turbotech thread... could it be the spring inside jamming some how therefore not boosting smoothly?

i had it hooked up the right way, but when i put the front mount on the boost contoller was getting its boost reading from the bov hose. what i did today was to take in the little penis shaped tip that the waste gate pipe hooked onto on the factory cooler pipe (that wasn't used with the front mount) and weld it onto the pipe that goes from the turbo to the intercooler. this way i don't get so much boost spiking at night.

i had to do a bit of adjusting of the idle afterwards.

Hmm now you got me worried as i was going to install a Gktech FMIC and run the boost control off the BOV hose... i have never welded in my life LOL is there any other hose i can connect to the boost controller which wil minimise boost spiking????

sadly no. but if you take it the pipe and the nipple to any engineering shop, or possibly exhaust shop and get them to silver solder it in for you. using a normal welder could be too hot for it and make more of a mess. but silver soldering is done with an oxy torch and is just as strong. i'll post up a pic of where i have attached it to when i get a chance.

Thanks for that i appretiate it... what if i removed the turbotech and ran a single hose from the BOV hose to the acutator? therefore using the acutator as the boost control? would it still spike then??

not very likely, but it would still be possible. but usually the more boost, the more the spiking varies. but not having a boost controller would mean that you would only be running 5psi boost.

also, how old are your spark plugs?

My plugs are about 12,000kms old... there NGK Platnums gapped to 0.8mm... im changing them to NGK coppers next oil change... before i installed the turbotech, my boost gauge showed 8psi on high boost mode on the stock solenoid... i would love to run the turbotech cause it has really made a difference at constant 9psi... im just concerned about the shudder/hesitation... what can it be?

I have a similar problem to what you have described, my car is stock apart from exhaust and filter, no aftermarket boost control, stock cooler etc.

I have a hesitation around 2500-4000 under acceleration, always comes on when boost starts, cruising off-boost, it is ok. Mine feels like the clutch slipping though, then it gets over 4000, revs ok, but feels a bit restrained (like there it is still slipping a bit).

Well i have heard some bad things about Shell fuel as i had used it for many years.. i have switched to BP Ultimate and only recently i have noticed the shudder/hesitation.. could this be due to the fuel??? there both 98RON...

Well i have heard some bad things about Shell fuel as i had used it for many years.. i have switched to BP Ultimate and only recently i have noticed the shudder/hesitation.. could this be due to the fuel??? there both 98RON...

If your problem is the same as mine (sounds pretty similar), but I doubt it would be fuel. My car was doing it when I first picked it up, then I put Ampol 95 RON (oops....) fuel in it, still happened, then Caltex Vortex 98, same thing....

Yea Quinny, however my clutch is not slipping.. it breaks traction in 2nd and it pulls VERY well to redline without hesitation.. the only thing it feel like a minor "hiccup" on low revs...

Yea Quinny, however my clutch is not slipping.. it breaks traction in 2nd and it pulls VERY well to redline without hesitation.. the only thing it feel like a minor "hiccup" on low revs...

Ok, different problem, just ignore me. :thumbsup:

if your clutch is slipping then it will rev out without you actually travelling any faster (like wheelspin, but its the clutch that slips not the wheels), and you would be able to smell it. how far up did you tape the coil packs? when i first did mine i only went up the rubber stalk, but then when i changed the plugs i did the last bit at the top around the body of it. it ran smooth for a while after that, but then a few days after i put dump pipe, new o2 sensor and cat on it started playing up.

when it stopped doing it i had moved the wastegate line and i had to adjust the idle and tps.

might be worth putting a new fuel filter on. they aren't that expensive, and it is possible that you have had a tank of dirty fuel. or if you want to do it on the cheap you could just take it of and flush some fuel through it backwards and that would take any big crap out of it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the RB29 box in the car is a push clutch, then yes, you will need to deal with the pull clutch on the turbo box. You either buy a pull clutch and don't use the old one, or you do the things needed to convert the turbo box's clutch arrangement over to push. Which is a bit of a f**karound. "Making" a custom tailshaft is the easy part. But you will need to source the front clip yoke - the bit that goes into the output of the gearbox. These are not as easy to find. They are out there, but they don't grow on trees the way that they used to.
    • Indicator bulbs are way too bright to use as a "corner marker" (we call them parking lights too). Sure. Go ahead and do it. But realise that you wil need to come up with all your own wiring to do it, as no-one will have a standard howto worked out for Skylines. It's just a matter of abandoning everything that Nissan have done and starting from scratch. You'd probably be better off retrofitting tailght/brakelight globe bases into the front indicator housings and using the taillight circuit for your corner marker and the brake light as the indicator. You'd need to work out how to kill the marker circuit while the indicator is flashing, otherwise it won't flash on-off, just bright-less bright.
    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
×
×
  • Create New...