Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 years later...

I believe you simply wrap a flat head screw driver in some a rag and just press on the edge closest to the centre of the car, gently pushing outwards and it should just pop out, or it could be from the outside edge toward the centre of the car, one of the 2, give it a go ;)

Yeah, I had trouble undoing mine when I took the front bar off, since I wasn't changing the indicators, I just unplugged them from the back.

But I heard they need a bit of force to get them out

IMO best way is to reach in behind. You will feel the two steel clips that hold them in place. Simply squeeze, and push forward. I used a butterknife, but found this a bad way to do it, and resorted to my hands. No tools required

Once you get it down pat, you will be glad to know not everyone knows how simple it is... otherwise im sure the nismo clear ones I put in wouldnt have last long around down :P

Sweet, thanks! i will try tonight.

<br />IMO best way is to reach in behind. You will feel the two steel clips that hold them in place. Simply squeeze, and push forward. I used a butterknife, but found this a bad way to do it, and resorted to my hands. No tools required<br /><br />Once you get it down pat, you will be glad to know not everyone knows how simple it is... otherwise im sure the nismo clear ones I put in wouldnt have last long around down <img src="http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/style_emoticons/default/smile.gif" style="vertical-align:middle" emoid=":laugh:" border="0" alt="smile.gif" /><br />
<br /><br /><br />
I believe you simply wrap a flat head screw driver in some a rag and just press on the edge closest to the centre of the car, gently pushing outwards and it should just pop out, or it could be from the outside edge toward the centre of the car, one of the 2, give it a go :laugh:

+1 did da same thing wrap a flat head screw driver with sticky tape and just stick the screw driving on the edge and it will eventually pop out..be careful not to scratch ur paint..i almost did my one..

  • 2 weeks later...
+1 did da same thing wrap a flat head screw driver with sticky tape and just stick the screw driving on the edge and it will eventually pop out..be careful not to scratch ur paint..i almost did my one..

yeah I was afraid of scratching. easy as shit way to get them out is as follows.

1. jack up the side of the indicator your taking out to make access easier if your cars lowered.

2.undo the plastic underpanel.

3. reach up behind the bar and unplug the indicators.

4. feel for the steel clips that hold the indicators in place.

5. squeeze them and push forward.

no paint scratches.

no frustration.

easiest way imo.

Edited by jimmyr31
I believe you simply wrap a flat head screw driver in some a rag and just press on the edge closest to the centre of the car, gently pushing outwards and it should just pop out :)

It took me 10 sec to do it this way. I just made sure that head of the screwdriver was pressed against the side of the indicator with my other hand and NOT levered against the bar at all. :banana:

It took me 10 sec to do it this way. I just made sure that head of the screwdriver was pressed against the side of the indicator with my other hand and NOT levered against the bar at all. :dry:

Weakling Terry :D

I just stick my arm up one of the front vents (love the GTR bar) and squeeze the clips with my fingers.. Just remember to undo the globe or u feel like an idiot afterwards when it gets stuck as u pull it out haha

Weakling Terry :D

I just stick my arm up one of the front vents and squeeze the clips with my fingers.. Just remember to undo the globe or u feel like an idiot afterwards haha

This is exactly how you described your night out with your G/F!!!!! You didn't have the two mixed up did you David???? :dry:

  • 6 months later...

Anyone know how to do this with the stock series 1 front bar? The right side was easy, but I can't reach behind on the left side cos of the oil cooler vent D:

I tried using the screwdriver but it's not popping out. It's f**king shitting me! :blink:

Edited by PewPew
Anyone know how to do this with the stock series 1 front bar? The right side was easy, but I can't reach behind on the left side cos of the oil cooler vent D:

I tried using the screwdriver but it's not popping out. It's f**king shitting me! :)

i also need an answer for this, as well as how to get the side indicators off.

thanks guys

i also need an answer for this, as well as how to get the side indicators off.

thanks guys

The front indicator lugs are at the sides (not top or bottom), and they can collect dirt. I'd spray some 'Tar 'n Bug' Remover to loosen any gunk around those lugs > try with the screwdriver again as above.

The driver's side indicator is removed with a screwdriver too. You stand next to the driver's door and use the flat head screwdriver at the edge of the indicator and push towards the front. It's springy and it'll pop out.

The passenger side indicator is removed by standing next to your front wheel. Use the screwdriver on the edge of the indicator and push it towards the rear.

Hope this helps...

The front indicator lugs are at the sides (not top or bottom), and they can collect dirt. I'd spray some 'Tar 'n Bug' Remover to loosen any gunk around those lugs > try with the screwdriver again as above.

The driver's side indicator is removed with a screwdriver too. You stand next to the driver's door and use the flat head screwdriver at the edge of the indicator and push towards the front. It's springy and it'll pop out.

The passenger side indicator is removed by standing next to your front wheel. Use the screwdriver on the edge of the indicator and push it towards the rear.

Hope this helps...

cheers it does.. do you push 'under' the rubber grommet thing?

thanks

cheers it does.. do you push 'under' the rubber grommet thing?

thanks

No, you'll scratch the paint that way. You push against the hard plastic lens edge.

You wouldn't want to damage the rubber gasket seal lest you let water condensation get in later on.

No, you'll scratch the paint that way. You push against the hard plastic lens edge.

You wouldn't want to damage the rubber gasket seal lest you let water condensation get in later on.

righto, i'll give that a try later, why do they make it so difficult :) i got some smoked indicators off ebay, look pretty good, cant wait to get them in but the seller forgot to ship with the side indicator bulbs.. would you happen to know what size they are and roughly how much? (if theyre cheap i'll just get some locally)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From when I was looking at getting the 86 engineered for the turbo, the joint said to put in a few euro 5 or 6 cats, then tune the car on a nice clean E85 tune When I was looking at a turbo for the MX5, it was basically the same thing, a couple of cats and a nice clean tune Although, it will depend on the year of the Jeep IRT emmisions standards required, and what mods are done, especially if it has a newer engine installed that requires a higher Euro
    • Yeah - but it's not actually that easy. There are limits for HC, CO, NOx and particulates. Particulates shouldn't be a concern in any petrol engine unless trying to comply to the very latest Euro standard. But getting a tune right so that all the others stay within limits AT THE SAME TIME is not a trivial exercise. You couldn't possibly get it right by just guessing at the tuner's dyno, unless he had a 4 gas analyser up the pipe, which is not often the case these days. It used to be. Every decent shop that did "tune ups" (as opposed to tuning) would have a 4 gas analsyer. Perhaps there's still quite a few of them around these days. But most "tuners" are only watching O2 and power readings.
    • Slight segway but the most expensive part of the whole thing which I would have thought would only be required for an engine size/type swap, not a VIV test, is emissions testing.  That's when you get into the big bucks.  I can't remember the exact price now but I got quotes for the GT-R based on swapping to RB30 (not that anyone bothers doing it legally anymore...) and it was around $4500 just for that alone.  The guy that does them manipulates the tune on the vehicle to make sure it passes.  The cheaper option is to book into Kangan Batman Tafe (I think that's where it was) and hire their tester.  Allegedly you're not allowed in there with the car though so not in a position to tweak anything to make sure the vehicle passes.  I'm sure in this day and age of ultra tuneable ECU's you could get the tuner to program a special efficiency (clean) tune that emits the lowest amount of particulates possible that would pass the test.  It might only make 50kW's but as long as it passed who cares!
    • I'm sure he has left signs, or, he is looking down, laughing That's my cunning plan for when I leave, lots of half finished projects, with no rhyme or reason of where I was actually up to, just to keep everyone on their toes
    • Does that price include the rack time to straighten the frame and body and replacement of parts and paint, as well as the noise and emmisions testing  The last engineering certificate I had done, albeit about 15 years ago, was around $1000 for a few inspections and the certificate 
×
×
  • Create New...