Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

after rebuilding and replacing the turbo a valve has let go on the 'test run'

this was only at 10psi and under 5500rpm so not heavy conditions. at first it was a misfire so i changed coil packs, spark plugs and ignitor amps. nothing. ran a compression test, and it came up with 0 compression in cylinder 4. so it something to do with the valves

i pulled the rocker covers off and rotated the cams and all 4 lifters work fine so its not the valve springs. all looks fine from the top of the engine. so it must be a bent valve or something from the bottom... but does anyone else have any ideas? is there something ive missed in the diagnostic?

can anyone give me any advice with regard to pulling the head off to check from the bottom if a valve is stuffed. how much for a workshop to do this kind of job or any help is greatly appreciated. my budget is already stretched from the turbo job so i have little cash to play with

thanks in advance for any help, it is much appreciated

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11872-busted-valve-help-needed/
Share on other sites

Originally posted by adam 32

thanks, i will definately need valves, hopefully not pistons - how much you want per valve?

how could the 2 have been related? im writing it down as bad luck as i was only running the new turbo at 10psi... any thoughts, ideas?

maybe a bolt or sumthing hard acidently fell into inlet side and bent valves

let us now what actually happened ie bent or burnt valves or holes in slugs

never seen a rb20 burn a valve yet

vavles...... $10 ea

Removing the head, dont use alcohol.

Big job, if you choose to accept it yourself

elaboration, ever notice how on a rb twin cam how something could fall into teh exhaust manifold and land right on number 4, its teh most direct route..

A mate once found a micromachine in teh sump of a 253, might find that lock nut after all

yep several times

I dont know how fast you work but put a weekend aside

veale should be able to get your head gasket over.

if you do it yourself theres two 10mm headed bolts holding head to block on the rear two corners on the outside of the head.... dont forget em dont screw up for timing belt settup......

workshops ...... contraversial and political

theres two in bentley area id trust

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...