Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Sorry to hear man. Nice clean looking car though. Its kinda like the same situation that the R32's came out with, the carby CA18 engine. but why a series II R33, i dont know.

Engine conversion is NOT worth it. You will also need to change brakes, etc, etc.... the list goes on.

Never knew these existed!!

Very true. Im pretty sure the transmission would be a little different too.

have no idea how RWC affects the price of your car...i aint from "that side" of oz >_<

but i am basically saying car price is about 10500 as is. but the smart thing would be take out bits worth taking out like stereo and wheels, replace them with standard items then sell it

that way u can add them to ur next skyline or car. or sell the parts to gain some more $$

wow, its honestly the first time i've came across someone who's so carefree over the car he purchases, especially when its a skyline, being a performance car and all.

im curious however to know where you found this seller. was he a friend or something? maybe it'll be good to post this up in order to prevent mishaps for future skyline owners.

cheers mate, and don't smack yourself in your face for something thats already happened. it's a lesson learnt.

Yang, are you happy with your purchase? Or do you have regrets that it is not what you thought you paid for?

You mentioned that you assumed all skylines either came with the rb25de or rb25det, so the fact that you were sold an rb20e means you still have a good chance of getting a refund if you act now rather than leave it till later.

Did you buy the car from a car dealership or privately from the previous owner of the car?

If you bought the car from a dealership & the seller said that "He didn't know" what engine it was when you asked him, then you have a better argument because it is the salesman's job to know what type of cars he is selling.

In either case you bought a skyline assuming it had a certain type of engine (rb25, rb25de) but you were sold a skyline with a lesser engine, possibly under a false pretense, this means the seller possibly knew the engine was an rb20e but didn't want to tell you so as to take advantage of you, however this is only a possibility & cannot be proven.

If the only reason you don't want to complain is your low english skills, than find someone you trust who can speak fluent english to go with you & argue your case.

If you are happy with your purchase & your car then at least you have a good looking car with a good build quality compared to other cars of the same age, just don't expect it to run like a performance car.

Yang, are you happy with your purchase? Or do you have regrets that it is not what you thought you paid for?

You mentioned that you assumed all skylines either came with the rb25de or rb25det, so the fact that you were sold an rb20e means you still have a good chance of getting a refund if you act now rather than leave it till later.

Did you buy the car from a car dealership or privately from the previous owner of the car?

If you bought the car from a dealership & the seller said that "He didn't know" what engine it was when you asked him, then you have a better argument because it is the salesman's job to know what type of cars he is selling.

In either case you bought a skyline assuming it had a certain type of engine (rb25, rb25de) but you were sold a skyline with a lesser engine, possibly under a false pretense, this means the seller possibly knew the engine was an rb20e but didn't want to tell you so as to take advantage of you, however this is only a possibility & cannot be proven.

If the only reason you don't want to complain is your low english skills, than find someone you trust who can speak fluent english to go with you & argue your case.

If you are happy with your purchase & your car then at least you have a good looking car with a good build quality compared to other cars of the same age, just don't expect it to run like a performance car.

I bought the car with a private seller, and he tell me that he don't know the engine type. I got this car almost 3 weeks already, that's why i don't think that i can argue with him anymore. i like the car, but i more rather worry that the price that i paid is much more expensive that the price on the market. If yes, i will suffer a huge lost in the future when i sell the car. But before there have a guy who said it market value is $10500, so i think it will be $1500 for the sound system and the 17inch rim with new tyre. so i didn;t suffer much lost.

I bought the car with a private seller, and he tell me that he don't know the engine type. I got this car almost 3 weeks already, that's why i don't think that i can argue with him anymore. i like the car, but i more rather worry that the price that i paid is much more expensive that the price on the market. If yes, i will suffer a huge lost in the future when i sell the car. But before there have a guy who said it market value is $10500, so i think it will be $1500 for the sound system and the 17inch rim with new tyre. so i didn;t suffer much lost.

If you wish to still get a refund then I don't think 3 weeks is too long, maybe 3-4 months I would've said to forget about it.

If you want to take the effort, you should get some legal advice from a lawyer to see if you still have a good case. series 2 R33s with an rb20e are pretty rare, so it might be easier to try & find out the average market value of a non turbo series 2 r33 that has the rb25de, this will give you a good indication of how much value to take off because the car has an rb20e.

In my experience, mods such as rims & stereo systems do not add that much value to a car,

the main thing that determines a car's value is usually things like age & condition, kilometres, service history, average market value of the car etc.

As for a loss when you sell, imports such as skylines depreciate in value very rapidly. I bought my series 1 r33 almost 2 years ago for $16,000 & even then I was probably overcharged :)

(Okay, so my dad financed it for me, but now I make the payments on it :wave: )

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...