Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 111
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Cheers,

I just got a permit for 48 hrs to get some work done for the registration and it seems that the diff has shat itself before i bought it causing the wheel studs to snap.

From inital inspection it seems that the diff is missing several teeth causing it to loose grip on the rear left wheel. When it grabbed it brought through a whole heap of force and bam it hit the studs and they were the weakest point.

New diff time. Super.

Edited by Tofu

Bad Luck? Nah the guy i bought the car off is just a complete tosser and lied about its condition. Alot of love needs to go into it to get it going but once it does,

As for the diff, the 2 way will defiinitely be where it will be in time. But i need the car on the road. I will see what needs to be fixed with the diff once its been replaced and fix it (or sell it)

Cheers, for the ups on the site. Its still under construction as im playing with the skins. The ladies are teh bombz0r and i have many more to add. Soon it will be locked down as it will feature footage of the cars of perth doing their bizzy on the strezzy, its not designed as club but for my crew and their boys to host there shizzle securely.

Where the car stands:

1. New Carpets - 50% done should be done by Tuesday morning.

2. Diff replacement - Fitted by Thursdayish.

3. New seatbelts (front and back), Fan Cover(sourced), Fusebox cover(sourced), Front Kick panels, Front Intrusion bar (hopefully sourced)

4. Full service and tune.

5. Seems to have some body damage on the front left hand fender making the head light sit out of place. It will need to be pulled out.

Then Rego. I was hoping for early July but it will take a miracle. Looks like the tax refund wont be paying off the CC but getting the car to the track.

Cheers,

Edited by Tofu

sh!+ tofu i just read your whole thread, you have had a bad run. I have to say i admire your good temper with all of this. Most people would be so crushed at buying there new car in this state they would come on here and whinge for 3 pages. Best of luck mate

man who ever the guy who sold you the car is nothing but a loser. i cant believe someone would do such a thing... now its gonna cost you an armand a leg and what not to do it all when all he could have done is be honest...

im feeling ya tofu best of luck dude!

Cheers,

No point in whinging really and its not going to achieve alot. When the car is finished it will be worth it.

The diff has been organised and will be fitted late this week early next week, sourcing a modified front intrusion bar as we speak and should have one priced and available next week.

As for the small front end damage, that can be looked at once the diff is fitted.

I have some good mates at Jshop so I am being looked after well.

Bad Luck? Nah the guy i bought the car off is just a complete tosser and lied about its condition. Alot of love needs to go into it to get it going but once it does,

haha oh i know that feeling all to well....

but dude, your "no point complaining, ill just get it fixed' attitude f**king rocks.

go son go, ps. you own me a ride when its finished if i remember correctly :)

steve :wub:

fo shizzle! Only way to be. If I rush it I will f**k it up, if I get angry i will f**k it up. Do it right and do it proper the car will thank you in the end.

The diff is being replaced as we speak. C-Red is handling the replacement. $160 for fitting at C red, $350.00 for the diff from Ben at KYP.

Oh you can have a ride if you have the nut sack to take it.

Andrew :D

Sup dudes

yeah its bad luck what happen with this car but its in good hand with me helpin Tofu gettin it all ready and over the pits,

Reprasent with the jshop decals :D

i say all up and running by latest next week then will be ready to hit D land

wel you see i cant really sell it when it doesnt move lol

so yeh, i thought id get it fixed then keep it for a bit, then sell it.

wil have spent way too much money just to keep it auto and rbo20det.

3k down the drain

so yeh probly keep it for a bit. :D

One Step closer! just purchased the following:

1. Front Intrusion Bar

2. Front Bumper (optional)

3. Kick Panels

4. Fuse Box Cover

5. Fan Cover

The Intrusion bar doesn't need any modifications at all which will allow for easy fitting especially the front bar. I will roll through the pits with a stock front bumper instead of the vertex for now.

Just need a new front passanger seat belt, washer hose to connect to the nipples on the bonnet, the refitting of the gauges and i am set for the pits.

* Andrew Humps a lamp post *

Edited by Tofu

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Given you already have the engine cross member to match and likely gearbox mount to. The SR20 has a head start on the RB in this case. They handle GREAT with an SR20, lots of fun.   One I did back in the day
    • have no doubt and wanted too trust me and may regret later not necessarily worried about weight (would be 8 kg ish total) it was more the $$ to do it properly is about $6 - $7K in hardwear need long 310mm stroke jacks etc - plus install and call me whatever im not doing it myself even if wanted too cant weld etc  - thats $10K installed vs fraction of that cost while Ive spent some money on this POS I actually really dont like doing so unless its got a large chance to make me go faster 😁 hey in still carting this things around on a 15 yr old rusted open trailer so I can spend on racing not buy a new trailer to look better the manual jacks Ive had done are heavy and take space but are transportable and usable anywhere - taking or organizing even compressed air let alone nitrogen which is more whats needed coming from Perth to Winton or Sydney or the like honestly just adds to my brain headaches/ hurts of organisation also ha 15 mins job will get down to 2 - 5 min job vs 1 min job for airjacks - all tradeoffs I spose
    • Purely out of curiosity, how do you know all this @dbm7? Do you work with automatic gearboxes professionally? This goes way way way beyond "I've had an automatic Skyline once and did some mucking around"
    • I'll just reiterate that it's best to do all the wiring diagnostics, before even thinking about buying replacement solenoids ~ that is, be absolutely sure the solenoid is bad.....ie; bad connector(s), rodents chewed through a wire, etc etc. If you don't so this, you can fork out all the money for solenoids, only to find something else is wrong (this'll make you cry if you pull the valvebody only to find a broken wire is at fault... ...some more glue on the solenoid packs -- this is the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly.... ...these are all shift solenoids ~ ostensibly they're the same as the shift solenoids from the 4-speed auto.... ...this is the RE4R01A solenoid set... ...with these, you have 3 shift solenoids attached to the plate, and the separate solenoid is the EPC solenoid (line pressure control) -- with both designs, the TC lockup clutch solenoid (also PWM so they could slide the clutch shut), is located on the lower valvebody half.... ...(story time)...back in the 90's, it was a common fault that the EPC solenoid (or TC-lock solenoid) would fail, but Nissan only sold them as part of the assembly (think ~$350 at the time) ~ thing was, Isuzu also used these boxes in light commercials, and you could buy the PWM solenoid as a separate part, so it was possible to buy/use that solenoid (around $65), and make it fit (remove the circlip, fit to old plate and deal with wiring)...making it a more cost effective repair. I've not seen the RE5R01A shift solenoid assembly, but with the 4-speed RE4R01A it was possible to hack/fit a single shift solenoid onto an other working set, using a donor solenoid from another set with failed EPC....(by rights the whole set should be replaced), but it ends up being a question of how much life is left in the box itself ; sometimes it's a viable repair to fix one solenoid, just to get another 100k of road miles out of it before it needs first overhaul...other times the box is that old/worn, you're as well doing first overhaul and replacing the solenoids and starting fresh... What Nissan did here with the 5-speed, was relocate the EPC solenoid to the lower valvebody (next to the TC lockup solenoid), and stuck the direct-drive clutch solenoid (for the extra gear) where the EPC solenoid used to be on the 4-speed....I can only imagine they did this for serviceability ; the PWM solenoids are most likely to fail, and it's a doddle to drop the pan and change these out (as opposed to dropping the valvebody itself to get at a top mounted EPC)... ...also keep in mind, that some BMW 3/5 series & Mazda (and maybe some Ford/Mazda rebadges, not sure), also used the RE5R01A box under a different name/part number...not saying parts availability is any better, but sometimes it helps to know this when it comes to NOS floating about in the EU.... HTH  
    • FWIW, air jacks are actually pretty light and simple to add, they are just 4 hydraulic cylinders (often at the main cage A and C pillar points) and an externally accessible airline  - they make quick work a breeze
×
×
  • Create New...