Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I noticed that when I started my car today that a lot of oil got spat out, and it left a 60cm x 30cm oil patch behind the exhaust. It then proceeded to burn a lot of oil as there was a lot of black smoke coming out.

I got hesitation all the way through the rev range until the engine had warmed up and then it has been fine ever since... No more burning oil, no more oil ejaculations :)

I am not sure why this would have happened. Does anyone have any ideas on what may have caused it?

The only thing I can think of is that a mate was pumping the accelerator while the engine was off the night before. Is there some way that this may have caused it?

Thanks for your help!

if its definitely oil then your turbo is fecked mate... i'd suggest it'd be a combination of moisture in the exhaust and fuel, and it looks black due to the carbon build up through the exhaust system.

aaahh I think you may be right! good thinking!

thanks mate!

(wishfully thinking that its actually moisture not oil!)

Do you have std ecu or aftermarket?

I have an aftermarket ecu and my cold start requires to be retuned, booked in for next week. Sounds like mine, has to much fuel that will foul up the plugs if not driven once started. You get a 30cm trail of black crap behind the exhaust. Once warm the ecu switches out of "cold start-up" and performs fine. Nothing to worry about, just get the cold start tune rechecked.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.
    • I really don't understand the point of aftermarket oil pumps if your particular engine doesn't need more oil pressure. As far as I can make sense of it the problem seems to be cavitation from sucking air, maybe the pump gear design with how it interfaces with the OEM crank, and maybe the backing plate screws wanting to loosen themselves. How does flowing more oil fix these issues?
    • More photos are up, and the price has been dropped to $16,000. It's just had a service and a new 12V battery, too.
    • I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.
    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
×
×
  • Create New...