Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok this is what we did.

- R31 engine mount bracket with R32 engine rubber mount(we used the R32 mount coz the R31 rubber was farked)

- R31 gear-box mount,all lines up,even used R31 gearstick,R31 tailshaft in R32 box.

- R31 power steering and air con pumps,for the power steering pump bracket it was the R31 one and same for air con.You will find the PS pump has a 3 rib pulley and the crank shaft pulley is 4 rib so use 3 rib belt.Use R31 idiler pulley bracket (i think) under air con pump.

- R31 altinator with whole R31 loom from gear box speed senser to altinator,The r31 loom conects to all the same spots as on the RB30e.With the speed senser unscrew it from the RB30e gearbox and put in RB20det box coz RB20det box has a speedo cable where as the R31 is electronic.Also use RB30e oil pressure sender with RB20det.

- Use your temp sender from RB30e and put in RB20det(might have to tap thread)

I have all the wiring info and will post later.If you need any more info fire away.:uh-huh:

Yes I got a half cut so all the parts needed were from the cut or the RB30e.

The only parts I had to buy were heater hoses and the top radiator hose,wich is a ford corsiar/laser hose I have the part number somewhere and had to cut 1.5cm's off each end for a snug fit.

It goes good,down low theres not much pulling power but at around 2500rpm it pulls very good.Btw it is unintercooled,standard dump and frontpipe,2.5inch cat and exhaust with rear muff chopped off and standard boost with a pod.

I have a supra fmic so thats going in very soon and the whole exhaust from turbo back will be made to.

I paid $2200 for the front cut with 55,000km on it but minus all gaurds,bonnet,lights and brakes.

After racing a number of rb20det powered cars, I am of the opinion that this is a bit of a waste of money... UNLESS you are going to do it properly and go something like T3, full exhaust, fmic + chipped ecu, as RB20DET's with boost/exhaust in 31's and 32's in highway roll on's are not a lot quicker than me (RB30E with exhaust intake and timing).

If you are going to use a front mount, slightly bigger turbo and the other usual stuff, go for it, but if its going to be pretty much standard, you might be a bit dissapointed after spending all that time and money for a small improvement.

RB20DET + mods + R32 brakes = :(

Guest jimmyd17

thanks for that, i appreciate your imput into the negative side of the conversion, because so far ive only heard good about the RB20DET... out of interest, how well does the RB30E really go? and if i were to go to the RB20DET, what would you recommend doing to for the best results?

Originally posted by slip

[bRB20DET's with boost/exhaust in 31's and 32's in highway roll on's are not a lot quicker than me (RB30E with exhaust intake and timing).  

[/b]

I dunno about that. I mean... seriously ?

An RB20DET with full Zorst and Zorst will pull up and over 120 rwkw at the Min.

My old dead stock 31... pulled 89 at the wheels on 7psi, but that's with and auto behind it and they suck 9kw out of the package, so manual is basically 100 before mods.

I don't think the RB30 would keep up as they are a low end motor. They don't wanna rev like the RB20DET does.

But with a bigger turbo, it'll go hard.

you can get 180rwkw not problem with just chip/boost/turbo/cooler/zorst

but by that stage you'll need a new diff :P

i got my car from Chirnside Park... know that area well.

Just got to an Oz Exhaust place... and just get them to make it.

I got one done.. 3" Mandrel from turbo back for $590.

That was not including Cat though... still cheap as.

i did have a 31 ... auto with RB20DET.

put the zorst on... huge torque increase. Made all the difference even without hi-flo cat.

I chipped ECU/boost and it went nice and hard.

Traded it plus $$$ for the GTS-R i have now. The car i brought as is from a private importer who got it here in Dec from Japan.

The car, you can tell, have had a full drift/race backgroud.

The mods include...

RB25DET

5-stud conversion/i think R32 GTR brakes

shortened shift gearbox

coil over suspension that is so hard there is virtually no travel

HICAS has been gutted for weight saving.

extra injectors in the custom intake pipe to plenum

steel braided brake lines

monster clutch

can't think of the rest at present

Also the diff i think has been modded i reckon.

it still has the standard T04E turbo/exhaust manifolds and huge front mount cooler that GTS-R's came with standard.

So its got some balls you could say.

Lovely to drive.... but always wants to go, such is the feel of the car.

But the RB25DET is the be all and end all. In my opinion after having both motors... the 25 kills the 20 hands down in every area.

But the RB20 is good bang for buck though. all you need is a turbo/zorst and cooler and they make quite decent power...

but then you gotta look at brakes/diff and other areas also

i have had an RB30ET with a hi-flow t3 running 15 psi...

that was nice, but it didn't wanna rev at all.

Heaps of low end power but the 7500 rev ability of the 20/25 is what i prefer in and engine... RB26 8000+... that's nice :P

In my own opinion... RB20DET will shit on RB30E for bang for buck.

you can only go so far with an RB30E before you run out of ways to get more power short of going turbo... costly $$$

visit

r31skylineclub.com

we got heaps of this sort of stuff there mate.

i agree,

IF you are going to go chip, fmic, turbo back exhaust, t3 turbo, use an rb20det and r32 brakes.

OR turbo + rebuild your RB30 for some wicked torque. Its not peak hp that gets you somewhere quickly, its how much power you have while you accelerate, this is why i was able to sit next to my mate in his r32 gts4 untill he hit top end and pulled on me, then sat dead level again untill he hit high revs in 4th and pulled again.

You are getting a turbo motor, but you are also dropping 1000cc's as well.

mate i have a 31 with a Rb20 in it, whuch replaced my old RB30e with a big cam , headwork, extractors, 2.5 inch exhaust etc, and the standard rb20 would kill it.

i have upgraded it bit by bit and can honestly say they are a great motor, and in no way a downgrade from a RB30e

first up put on a good 3 inch mandrel bent exhaust, second a good sized front mount cooler, and wind the boost up to 13 or 14 psi.

For not alot of money you are going to have a quick car, worthy enough to scare wrx's and 200sx's.

This is presuming you have a 5 speed. I would also suggest 4.11 diff ratio's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah agreed, you can't assume that shop are they only people who ever had to work on it. It was just a guess on the mods based on how things were done back then. You can check the Air Flow Meters by the part number on their tags, they are likely either Z32 or Nismo ones (both read about the same but the Z32 one is a little larger while nismo is stock size but supports the higher airflow like a Z32). And yes, all that would get you to 450hp / 340kw To tell what is happening with the turbos, you want a photo of the tag on the core, that will say what it was made out of  (they can retain the front and rear covers to make the plumbing easier)  
    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is juan@bardabe.com   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
×
×
  • Create New...