Jump to content
SAU Community

Squeaky Clutch - How To Fix?

chicane

By chicane,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

dammit I have the same problem!

Just happened tonight and got my exedy clutch fitted just over a month ago now.

Squeaks when depress clutch when driving to change gear - neatural and depress clutch - no noise.

Hopefully this thread can help me!

mad082 - thanks for the photo!

:)

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

mine was doing that too. neutral and in gear. caouildnt really hear it when driving though, only when stopped really, somewhere quiet.

I got it greased up when i had the car on the hoist yesterday, the squeak is gone, BUT....now i have this click click sound when i push the clutch in.

it makes 2 clicks as the clutch is pressed.

any ideas what that is?

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted (edited)

thanks for taking the time.

its clicking from under the car. can only hear it with window open in a quiet place, like inside my garage.

added: i called my mechanic after we greased the fork to stop the squeak, and told him about the click. he said not to worry about it, it will go away, it's just clicking against the groove that's been made thru all the squeaking. i'm not so sure about that though.

Edited by Munkyb0y
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

it could be the slave cylinder clicking in a grove it has made. you really need to be under the car and have someone push the clutch in. it could also be the slave cylinder bolts are a bit lose, or it could be the spring on the clutch fork (where it goes onto the throwout bearing) isn't in the right spot.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

wouldnt you know it. the click went away. my mechanic was right.

took it there today to get it up on the hoist, and just before we did, listened for the click...tada !!! gone.

thanks for ur help mad082.

  • 3 months later...
Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

in case anyone else has this prob.

when i did a search i found alot saying it was the slave cylinder, needs to be chganged.

my clutch developed a really loud, annoying squeak. i mean embarrassingly loud.

so whenever i released the clutch, it would squea-ea-ea-ea-eakkk like an old lady's trolley.

wasnt like the previous squeaky rattle noise, which turned out to be the fork rubbing on the plate.

anyways, it was the fork again, but this time it was where it pivots on the rod inside. it was pretty dry and dusty at that pivot point, so i greased it up, and the noise is gone.

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
Posted

yeah,

mad082 explained it on the previous page.

have a look at this pic.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=39884

undo the slave cylinders (2 bolts) and remove it.

then pull the rubber boot off, and get a torch, you'll be able to see in where that fork runs.

you'll see another rod inside running at 90 degrees thru the fork.

at that point where they pivot is where i greased mine. i used thick grease.

you'll probably need a hoist, or at least some decent clearance to get right under there.

Godzilla32 Veteran

Godzilla32

Posted
Posted

Just thought id remind you guys its extrememly bad to apply wet grease to anything inside the bellhousing as it can and will find its way onto your prssure plate/drive plate/flywheel eventually. Better to use a dry lubricant like graphite powder.

  • 1 month later...
jetpilot Enthusiast

jetpilot

Posted
Posted

I CONFIRIM;

The bit that was squeeking in my car was the actual metal pin that goes through the clutch bracket. I sprayed it with WD40 and it is all cool now.

You have to physically lay down on the floor of the car and so u can see the whole clutch bracket. The spray the clutch metal pin..its fairly large u cant miss it. Make sure u have a torch aswell and the red straw bit to direct the spray into the gap of the pin.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Zabuza
      Need AC Compressor for R32

      By Zabuza · Posted

      Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • sausagepianist
      V36 2008 Coupe Wiring Differences with Android Screen

      By sausagepianist · Posted

      Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
    • sausagepianist
      V36 2008 Coupe Wiring Differences with Android Screen

      By sausagepianist · Posted

      Thanks for that Paul.  Do you think if I posted a picture you'd be able to remember where it went? 
    • sausagepianist
      V36 2008 Coupe Wiring Differences with Android Screen

      By sausagepianist · Posted

      Sorry Duncan, I didn't get a notification for the replies.  Thanks for responding!  It's a full Android device, but does allow you to use CarPlay/AA as well.  This is the one I bought from NaviRS on AliExpress: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006368602668.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.111.59aa1802JDzQ0E - the 2K 8G-256G CAM variant but it seems to have gone up by £170 since I bought it!  My purchase was ￡307.14.   It's not the fastest thing in the world but performs perfectly adequately.  It stays on standby unless I disconnect the battery and let it power down, then it's just a fairly standard Android bootup time from cold.  The DSP Equaliser is very nice and made the standard stereo system sound pretty decent compared to the stock screen.  Perhaps I can take a video of it when I get a sec. It *allegedly* supports the reverse camera, but I'm yet to get that working.  It has options for reverse cam (a camera unit can be bought separately) or 360 cameras (also bought separately).  To be fair it doesn't seem to detect that the shifter was put into reverse but I'm working on a theory about this as well.  At the moment I'm going without which is a bit annoying considering the car is an absolute canal barge but so far I haven't caused any damage I'll grab a picture of the wire I'm missing later today when I can get outside.  My theory, by the by, is that not only is the head unit different, but the CANBUS network has different signals for the different years.  I think this because I have a spare AC panel from a newer Infiniti G37 (as opposed to my Nissan panel) which wouldn't control anything except the volume when I had it wired up with the stock system.  I'm going to throw it back in and see if the screen will respond to it.  I've just ordered an arduino CANBUS module so I can have a look at the signals going around the car and see if I can spot anything.  I'm thinking if I can work out what it's expecting vs what it's getting I might be able to translate and relay the signal back but so far just a theory anyway. I also found this on my travels, so far the only one that specifically matches my car: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002822934280.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.33433e5fgttovi If you look at the picture of the before, it has the card reader slot, and the picture of the head unit is exactly the same as the one pictured in my original post.  I asked if they sell the cables separately but sadly they won't.  I didn't want to just buy this one because it's a super old Android version and only dual core - likely slow as hell. 
    • sonicii
      V35 Overheat + Coolant Boil & Overflow + Engine not Starting

      By sonicii · Posted

      As above, you did refill the coolant and burp the system before running it again didn't you?
×
×
  • Create New...