Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Ive just got an R32 GTR, and it has the following mods:

- 3 1/2 inch Exhaust and front pipe (stock dumps)

- K & N hi flow panel filter

- Adjustable cam gears

- Simple bleed valve boost controller to 1.1 bar

- Almost new R34 GTR turbos

My car made 240rwkw.

This is all great, but it is running REALLY RICH!!!

Last night I took it out for about 10 mins to show my brother what it can do. I got back and the rear bumper is just covered in black spots.

Obviously it needs a tune as the standard ECU is making it really rich.

Will resetting the ECU do anything to this richness? As it hasnt been reset since its been in australia. And will this affect any of the cam/ignition settings?

I know Power FC is the way to go, but until I can afford that I want to try and keep my bumper a bit cleaner :D

I know something like a S-AFC is a quick fix, but ultimately its not gonna give me much more power I think.

thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/11894-resetting-r32-gtr-ecu/
Share on other sites

Just want to upgrade eventually to full ECU to get a bit more power across the range before i put in another turbo, but that might be a year away. Mine needs a proper dyno tune I think and the S-AFC adjusted (or something else looked at) as its not running great at the moment.

Anyway..getting off topic...back to it.

Guys, if I reset the ECU will it do anything to the power curve it got when it was tuned?

If you're referring to when it got tuned for your cam gears then no. You haven't listed any electronics so resetting won't have anything bad except you have to put your radio stations back in and adjust your time :D

When I reset my ECU I seriously got more mileage. I had on average 300-350 and then after I got a constant 400 out of the tank. I know a lot of people say resetting the ECU is BS... and it could very well be that but it has worked for me.

Also don't bother with the SAFC.... I had one... and before even tuning it I got a powerFC.

Yeah theres no electronics involved. Although there is an Apexi Multi checker which only monitors the engine, but thats it. A Bleed valve for boost, cam gears and then the bolt-ons I listed.

I actually got 550k's to a tank!!! I drove home from Melb to Mildura on a full tank. Although I never revved it over 3000rpm and only gave it a quick flex once.

400hp, you have an R33 GTR right?

And the way to reset the ECU is just by unhooking the battery and letting the power drain right? I might try that and lower the boost just a bit.

550km's would have been highway driving right?... I dunno where Mildura is....

I can easily get more than 400km if its hwy driving but I'm talking about city and regular driving in Sydney. And yep R33 GTR....

Yes thats the way to drain the ECU. I don't think it takes all nite. Unplug, stomp on the brakes (its what ppl say.. I dunno why)... all internal lights won't work or anything else for that matter. Leave it for 10 mins and it should be reset. I THINK!

400hp, yep all highway driving. 550k's on a full tank which i was surprised with. Considering its 240rwkw.

Meggala, yeah I will lower the boost for every day driving, but turn it up for the occasional V8 hunt.

So do you guys think that if I reset the ECU and turn the boost down a notch (to around 1.05 - 1.1bar) Ill get less overfueling, and then less black crap on the rear bumper?

Also, another quick question. Im sure my clutch is stock, but not 100% sure. It feels a bit heavy, and feels like it has lots of travel in it. ie, the clutch engages when its almost right up to its normal position....... or does that mean its almost worn out??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For sure the later RB26 variants had a different setup (6 cam voltage sender?), but the RB25DE/DET share the same ECU pinout/PCB footprint, and at the ECU plug it ends up being 'throttle sensor in' & 'throttle sensor out' (to A/T TCU) ...you stick a multimeter on these pins and you'll find them directly connected (0 ohms) ; I had an pair of Nissan ECUs on the bench long ago, and I noticed this throttle sensor in/out link, actually linked to an op-amp ...which was unpopulated on the NA board, but present on the T board and I went 'ah-ha!' in some moment of clarity... ...it wouldn't surprise me if they changed strategy here though (in the software and actual monitoring of this signal), because they did with other stuff (A/T signals).. and 0.45v as a trigger point makes sense, as that's what the external TCU units expect at idle ; kudos, thanks for that insight...I suppose it boils down to whether or not Consult can display real time data of that signal's voltage... ...in any event, it presents the same target...ie; rotate TPS unit to achieve 0.45v to suit both ECU&TCU, and where do you goto from there? Just disconnect TPSwitch connector and/or that plus TPSensor connector....or do you go for the throat and disconnect IACV solenoid and see if it still stalls? (probably throws a recoverable fault code and goes for default idle strategy?)...
    • I’m also conscious that e85 is slowly being phased out. Not all United’s have them anymore. Can’t take the risk of being low on petrol and assuming the servo will have it. 
    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
×
×
  • Create New...