Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys... im going to attempt to install my FMIC in the upcomming weeks and just QRI05E (curious) :) to know where is the safest part to place my jack stands while working on the car?

post-23753-1148286411.jpg

Could some one please post up a pic showing where to place them under the car??

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/118956-jack-stand-points-needed/
Share on other sites

um i placed mine just underneath my suspension arms (actual name fails me.. wishbones or something? i duno, independant bits at the front) on the rubber washers just as they join up with the rest of the under carriage. probably the best place to jack as the front as the sills will be a bit to far back for stability and are rather hard to access if youve got a kit.

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
i cant put them under the frame rails due to my trolly jack being too high to fit under the car after lowering it 3" : can anyone please post up a pic??

cheers

i know what u mean...

i have 2 ways of jacking up my car..

1/ piece of wood and bricks, which i drive the front wheels on and put the jack under

2/ get a scissor jack, jack it up from the side enough to get a mini trolley jack in, then get the big trolley jack in the front..

either way its a bitch

Try the frame rails under the floor but put a rag between the rail and stand.This will protect the paint.

Are you talking about the chassis rails? I was under the impressions it is an extremely bad idea to use these are jack points as they tend to bend and buckle.

I recall reading something somehere (either SDU or one of the UK forums) about a similar topic.. there's a nissan made part specifically for jack stands and skylines. I did add the item to my post skyline purchase shopping list (nissan part# LM450-60000), but don't know how much, or if they're available here.

  • Like 1

i use the points that ive circled below.. not sure what its called.. can someone tell me if its alrght to use them ??? im also curious where the correct place to put the jack is... i always get realy paranoid the car is gonna fall ;)

post-19018-1148440014.gif

between the two circles is the front cross member/subframe, that is a good place to use. Be careful since the sump is a bad place to use. there is also the tow hooks at the front they are great jacking points.

also be very careful if you are putting the jack under the side of the front subframe, the lower control arm is not safe - it moves relative to the chasis when you jack the car up.

chasis rails are OK to put stands under *if* you use the thicker area towards the front and let the car down slowly. even better if you have to do this use a piece of wood on top of the chasis stand along the rail to spread the weight.

at the rear, like the pic says, use the diff or rear subframe.

the sils are a no no they wil crush for sure unless you are using the nissan scissor jack or a hoist with rubber pads (and sometimes even then)

tow hooks are great, strong weld to the chasis and easy to get to....I was pretty nervous at first, have a good look at how they are fixed to the car....I use them all the time now, so easy to get to :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
    • I can donate $100 to your upgrade fund. So long as you can donate the IC7 my way....
    • I'd love a Haltech ECU, and Haltech 10 dash. Was having a chat with Rob and Andy @ Haltech when Rob put one in his MR2. First one I'm kind of interested in too, as you can dim it RIGHT down. Andy was saying bright dashes is one of his peeves too!
×
×
  • Create New...