Jump to content
SAU Community

How many Stagea owners does it take...  

306 members have voted

You do not have permission to vote in this poll, or see the poll results. Please sign in or register to vote in this poll.

Recommended Posts

  • 4 weeks later...
  • Replies 292
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

boost mod is to cut the black wire on the boost control solenoid and earth the part of that wire coming from the solenoid to the body. The connector part going back to the ecu remains cut.

Normally you have only 4psi of boost before 4500rpm, then it goes to 7psi. Using this mod gives you the full 7psi at all times.

I just worked out that the satnav requires a japanese only CDROM for maps and the tv is ntsc...doh!

Does this work on the NEOs (series 2) as well?

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 5 weeks later...
I've just joined the stagea ranks today! :wub:

Pearl white , leather sat-nav auto etc..

BTW anyone know how to fiddle with the satnav and TV to get them working?

Only hours into it and the solenoid boost mod is done and K&N panel filter is in.

Next up split dump & front pipe.

So I assume with Sat-nav you have an M35? Looking at getting one myself soon :wub: If it is an M35 you have Id be mad keen for a look at it and a chance to sit behind the wheel and see if my 6'5", 120kg frame will squeeze in comfortably!

Luckily for you we have one of only a couple of guys in Oz than can readily do the sat-nav conversion right here in Perth - and also pretty cheaply. I'll trade you his name for a look at your car :wub: PM me

Adam

So I assume with Sat-nav you have an M35? Looking at getting one myself soon :unsure: If it is an M35 you have Id be mad keen for a look at it and a chance to sit behind the wheel and see if my 6'5", 120kg frame will squeeze in comfortably!

Luckily for you we have one of only a couple of guys in Oz than can readily do the sat-nav conversion right here in Perth - and also pretty cheaply. I'll trade you his name for a look at your car :P PM me

Adam

Sorry to say I have a 1997 series 1.5 not the M35.

Good news about the satnav for perth people though.

yeah got castle hill exhaust to make 3inch exhaust and fit dump at same time. they said twas 30 plus mm shy at flange, hitting on floor. i hope they didnt get it wrong coz i already got refund. also i have been told 34 dump is the way to go but no one makes em.(that i know of)

I can now confirm that the R33 dump pipe doesn't fit on the Stageas. The R34 one *looks* right, as it has a kink where there's a gearbox mount (or similar) near where the cat converter joins up.

The problem that's been revealed to me is that even though all the Stageas are 4-door, 5-passenger cars with the same basic structure, there are apparently quite a few detail differences between individual cars, such as where the above-mentioned mount appears on my car - the guys at Unique Auto Sports said that some of the Stageas they've worked on DIDN'T have a mount in the same spot. Who knows, maybe the fact that mine's been converted to manual is a factor, and the auto box uses different gearbox mounts or something... I asked John at UAS if he'd be interested in making a series of dump pipes for the Stageas, and this was the reason he gave me as to why he would rather not invest in doing so - there's just too many variables, so having one dump and front pipe unit might work on one car, but not on another.

John's a massive Z32 300ZX fan (and he races one too, as many of you would know), and he mentioned that they have the same problems with Z parts - there are 2-seater Z's, 2+2 seater versions, then the targa-top versions, and also convertibles.

Just purchased a 2002 AR-X...got everything....great deal.

Twin sunroof's

TV, Sat NAV, DVD(still to convert)

Leather

HICAS

P.S. What is it with Jap woodgrain stuff, makes me dry reach!!!!...anyone want to swap for black or silver(wont be suprise if there's no takers)

post-37023-1190111446_thumb.jpg

post-37023-1190111469_thumb.jpg

Hi all from Perth, picked up my Stagea last week and thought id post up here.

its a 97 S1, rb25det auto, silver, black leather...

Will post up a few pics, feel free to tell me what kit etc is on it as i bought it as is, has dolphin r pinstriping so im assuming its a dolphin kit of some sort.

Cheers.

IMG_1261as.jpg

IMG_1258as.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

I have my sights on an M35, or a late S2 with low kms.

Who has imported their car themselves or through an agent such as Prestige or J-Spec?

Im after some feedback on the best, most cost effective way to get a car over from japan and have it all complianced etc, whilst knowing that i'll get what i pay for.

Who have you guys gone through? And how do you rate them? Ive never imported a vehicle before, and want some assurance my $25k will go to the right place!

This is the one i am currently speaking to J-Spec about - Theyve quoted 28.5K. Better options for my money? Alternatives?

l_d26c9f6dae27f7873a32d75d85fda36f.jpg

Looks hot!

You want 100% assurance? You can't get that by importing (in my opinion) and I don't think the brokers can either (from my experience...)

The safest way to buy an import is to buy locally sadly and the question of saving money/getting a better deal is very open to interpretation.

Luke

Yeah thats true enough. Long way to go for a test drive - though i do have a lot of flybuys.

I guess i was mainly asking if anyone has had experience with a company to a good result. Are any companies more reputable than others...

You probably want to check the "Importing Vehicles" forum; there are a lot of experiences listed there. The two biggest import brokers I have heard of are Prestige Motorsport and J-Spec; have heard excellent things about both. But yeah check http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/f85.html

Have had our Stagea for a few months now and love it! Purchased it through an import dealer in Melbourne and transported it to it's new home in Perth! Would like to meet other Perth Stagea owners and organise a Stagea day out :cool:

post-41575-1192202479_thumb.jpg

post-41575-1192202501_thumb.jpg

post-41575-1192202781_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Mate,

I used Prestige and had good results. One thing you will find doing a private import though is the amount of chasing you have to do once the car hit's customs agent in Australia(get a good one)..e.g.I was suppose to have my car delivered from Brisbane to my Sydney compliance, and they forgot the last part. Therefore my car sat at the Toll depot for 3 day's untill I tracked it down and picked it up myself...I am also still waiting for them to send me my paperwork, they have now said they have were sending it about three time and it still has not left there office.

Next part is compliance and then rego....I'll let you know how I go....all finger's crossed!

P.S. For $25G you should be able to get quite a good car(how good is the Yen at the moment!)...try to stay away from the Mod's though, as it may make it harder to comply. For insurance I am using Shannons (about $1,340 with a Cams licence).

P.S.S. Make sure you know everything about the M35 Stagea and compliance before you start bidding.

Edited by Jetwreck
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey @Butters, did you end up getting this clutch in ? I have just ordered to a uniclutch track to go in my getrag 6 speed that’s in my BNR 32     
    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
×
×
  • Create New...