Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I just bought my gf a car from NSW, its wrx, has exhaust, pod and POV,

my gf is in Adelaide.

I am not familiar with SA road rules.

the car will be freight to SA in a week time.

anyone has some knowledge, please give me some advices!

what is the process of transfering registration to my gf's name?

do they have blue slip or pink slip as NSW?

as I just bought the car, in NSW I have 2 weeks to transfer the registration!

what about in SA?

when my gf received the car, can she just pay greenslip and re-new or transfer the car to her name same as in NSW or what else she need to do?

any advices appreciated!

Cheers,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119177-process-of-registering-a-car-in-sa/
Share on other sites

Transport SA guidelines for interstate vehicles. Read that.

If you want to register the WRX in her name, you need to:

1. Get an Identity Check

2. Go to Transport SA and register car, pay fees (stamp duty, new plates, etc)

3. Apply to NSW RTA for a refund on rego fees not used.

Yeh quite a simple thing over here! There is a place called Sturt Cop Shop, Next to there is a place where they go over the car ie: check chasis no, engine no and so on! It's not really a roadworthy check but just simply to see if the numbers match up!

On the otherhand if she is here on business and is planning to return to NSW then you may as well continue registering the car over there.....worth a thought, allthough you guys have regular checks over there don't you???

thanks for all your advices!

regard to the identity inspection,

they don't check to see if your car is road worthy?

on the car at the moment has exhaust, BOV, POD,

it said on the transport.sa website, that the vehicle can be check at a POLICE station or Road Transport Assessment and Safety Group.

If she takes it to a police station,

they wont pass you would they?

my main concern are the mods that it has!

my plan was to quiten down the exhaust, remove BOV and get a stock air box. Abit of works there,

but if I could freight the car down AS IS and get an inspection without problem, that would be ideal.

DELUXE: you think the car will pass?

did you go through it before?

cheers,

Nah i havn't been there......but my bro in law took his Audi A4 there with no mods and bought NEW tyres and they didn't even chek them!, and another mate took his 180 there....well actually my sister took it there for him, and all went well. They are simply a rego swap place down there and are open on certain days not all week!

I would suggest buying a stock air box(not too expensive and easy to fit), can get Marky at ET over here to put in a baffle plate in exhaust to quieten it down, but then i guess the biggest issue/hassle would be removing the BOV and then putting back on after!

Personally i'd make those changes, just to be safe than sorry, but you might/prob get away with it, BUT i'm not gonna say for sure you'll be fine, because i'd hate to see it have to get a full inspection down at Regency because i gave you the impression you'll get thru no worries!

Edited by Deluxe

DELUXE: ;)

  HOSTILE said:
ID check is real easy... hardly check anything other than vin no, eng no etc.. costs $25. No roadworthy req if the vehicle is currently registered interstate.

that is really asuring!!!

thanks HOSTILE,

yeah,

car stil have rego till 23 june 2006!

Thank you all,

I will take a chance and send down as is, because my gf loves the BOV sound and exhaust!

but worse case, she can always bring it to a mechanic and change the muffler and remove BOV.

I worried because, my gf is glueless about car!

cheers,

:(

It might be a good idea to remove the BOV and have the exhaust quietened down first mate. At the ID check, if they notice something stand out defect-worthy they sometimes WILL defect you for it.

Which in then would generally mean a full regency inspection, which means A LOT of work as you put it all basically back to standard. The extra bit of work now might save you a lot more work later on.. :D

i wish it was all that easy for me getting the gtr rego'd ova here, what a head f**k!! no compliance plate made it even more of a head f**k. oh well its all good, afta a couple months shes rego'd here now! until it broke.

Guest Miss_Nismo

i bought my 32 from NSW where it was registered as roadworthy - and when I got to regency for the identity check - suprise! they wanted to go over the car, they failed me because of turbo timer, brakes (needed to be bigger from engine conversion), and my mags didn't have the correct markings. 5 months later i tracked down the brakes i needed and finally had it on the road!

best bet if you can get it registered in nsw even if you have to change your licence over to a friends house over there. then rego the car in your name bring it here, change your licence back to sa then. now all you would have to do is go to your local transport station with the nsw rego papers in youe name and they change it over no insp. or just take the parts off. i just moved here from nt, got my car changed over the other day, cause it still had rego in my name they just change it over there and then dont need to see the car at all (mine isnt even going atm....) no insp.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Are you suggesting that the kit did a cheap and nasty job of just jamming the wheel in between other things and caused the misalignment? I mean, we normally do this with an integrated crank trigger wheel, not something bodged on. It's not 1995 any more.
    • I mean, given the number of BMWs you own their tolerance for improper torque is rather low. The number of torque + angle spec bolts and non-reusable bolts in one is nuts.
    • Atmospheric vent requires something that doesn't use a MAF for load. You would need a standalone ECU for that.
    • Hey all,   I’ve got an RB25 with a trigger kit that includes a crank wheel, and I’ve hit a wall trying to sort a timing belt tracking issue. The belt either rides right on the edge of the cam/crank pulleys or walks slightly forward once the engine starts. It tracks okay-ish for a moment, then creeps right to the edge—and honestly, it’s stressing me out.   I’ve spent hours removing and reinstalling the belt, double-checking everything:   Tensioner setup is good, checked multiple times Idler pulley and washers are all in the correct places Followed the RB25 timing procedure step-by-step     The only thing I changed was the rear crank washer—I swapped the OEM one for a Neato version, and it made things worse. The belt now sits even more forward than before. I’m beginning to think the crank trigger wheel itself (from the trigger kit) is the issue—poor design or slightly off dimensions.   What’s strange is that with the previous belt setup, it actually ran fine for a couple of years—around 4,000 to 5,000 miles, even with hard driving and high RPMs. But even then, the belt was always riding right on the edge, and I know that’s not ideal or safe long term.   At this point, I’m debating whether to:   Machine a few mm off the crank trigger wheel to bring it back in line, or Replace it entirely with a better-designed unit     Only thing is, I already have the Cherry Hall sensors, bracket, etc.—I just want to replace the wheel only, not the entire kit. Anyone know a brand or supplier that sells just the crank trigger wheel on its own?   Would really appreciate any feedback—especially from anyone who’s run into this exact issue and found a reliable fix.   Thanks in advance.
    • Hi...a little refresh. Is Nistune gonna be enough to run BoV? Or do i need some proper ECU? 
×
×
  • Create New...