Jump to content
SAU Community

2wd Or 4wd Which To Buy.

Blitz_boy
 Share

Recommended Posts

Blitz_boy Mentor

Blitz_boy

Posted
Posted

Hi guys,

I want to buy a series 2 Stagea and I was thinking of buying a 2WD model instead of the conventional 4WD.

I want people’s opinion on weather this model is less desirable and if a 2WD model would have a worse resale value in the future.

I personally would like the fact that it would be lighter and be able to break traction if I like :P

What do you think??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119229-2wd-or-4wd-which-to-buy/
Share on other sites
3intheBack Rising Star

3intheBack

Posted
Posted

Mines 2WD and it's awesome on a wet skidpan. However on the road there's nothing like the confidence inspired by 4WD in the wet.

But then why does it seem everyone with 4WD spends ages trying to work out how to disconnect it.

Either way less dissappation of power through the gearbox means more power to the ground

munchstagea Mentor

munchstagea

Posted
Posted

4WD is a big part of the attraction for me, I can't wait to take advantage of it in the wet! On the flip side, I think it could turn you into a lazy driver, if you stepped back into a RWD and had the same attitude, the first time the back end stepped out, you would be like "Ooops!" It's really there to create a much safer car, unlike GTR's that need it too get the power down.

GoldZilla Grand Master

GoldZilla

Posted
Posted

Anyone with a manual (Ska, EGA41T) can attest that even with AWD, the car can be convinced to slide a little with a stab of the pedal.

The beauty of it is that as the drive is gradually distributed to the front, the car kinda pulls itself straight, which makes it fun and pretty safe even in the wet.

Not too sure if the autos behave the same way, because I haven't driven or been in one.

ian Experienced

ian

Posted
Posted

As a few of you know, I've got a R34 GTX Turbo (RWD, NEO) and the series 2 S Stagea (AWD, NEO)..

so a few comments - remember both cars have the same engine, so looking at the weight and the AWD vs RWD.

You do notice the extra weight in the Stagea, it is 200kg heaver, and my understanding is that 150Kg of that is the AWD. It's not quite as 'nimble' around corners, and stop start traffic pushes the fuel consumption up a bit faster.

The positive is the AWD, and I do mean positive. In the WET there is absolutely no comparison, if I turn off the traction control in the GTX, I'll slide even going around a roundabout with a bit of power. Even in a straight line, with 255/40 tires on at the back, you simply have to be careful putting your foot down from a standing start at the lights, as the back wheels will just spin…

In the DRY, there is less of a difference - the GTX gets the power to the road in a straight line. The corners are still a bit different though, the back of the GTX (assuming traction control is off) will still step out very easily if you put your foot down, where the AWD nicely sends power to the front wheels as well..

So you sort of have to decide what type of driving you want to be doing.. If you want to fish tail around the corners sideways, get the RWD. If you want to drive and have the car stick to the road like it is on tracks, get the AWD.

Ian

ian Experienced

ian

Posted
Posted
4WD is a big part of the attraction for me, I can't wait to take advantage of it in the wet! On the flip side, I think it could turn you into a lazy driver, if you stepped back into a RWD and had the same attitude, the first time the back end stepped out, you would be like "Ooops!" It's really there to create a much safer car, unlike GTR's that need it too get the power down.

- one last thing, munchdesign has a point - if I've been driving the stagea for a week or so, then step into the GTX, I have to be very very very very carefull......

CruiseLiner Mentor

CruiseLiner

Posted
Posted

4wd for sure, best of both worlds.

i'd only go 2wd if u plan on leaving it pretty stock standard as bigger power upgrades will mean u cant get traction as easy.

so just depends on your expected power output i reckon, no point having 4wd if u only stock.

i must admit with my rs four in 2wd (front driveshaft removed) with 350rwhp didnt really spin much at all, compared to the same setup in a rwd commodore which smoked tyres at any speed, any gear. must be alot better suspension designs :starwars:

cheers

ian Experienced

ian

Posted
Posted

that may be (ie it is a better setup than a commondore!), by my R34 has a better setup than the stagea S2 S (bigger brakes for a start etc etc), and with the same engine it just can not get the power to the road in the wet in the same way - and I'm talking about ordinary town driving, not out on a race track...

I think if you are going for a stagea - ie a wagon - get the AWD!!!

Although there was one thing I forgot to mention, the GTX has a much better turning circle (as it doesn't have the front wheel drive in the way) It's pretty noticeable, as my stagea is 4.80m long, and has a turning radius of 5.7m, where as my skyline is 4.705m long (ie only about 10 cm shorter) but has a turning radius of 5.1m..

That's 10cm shorter, but a massive 1.2m small turning diameter, which is pretty noticeable around town when you are U turning on side streets!

Looking up the stagea series 2 RWD models, they have a turning radius of 5.2m - so require a meter less road to turn on the a AWD version....

Ian

Blitz_boy Mentor

Blitz_boy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all your feedback guys. I was particularly interested that the turning circle was smaller in the 2WD model.

Part of the appeal of the 2WD model was the lower fuel consumption due to it being lighter. Damn petrol prices :D

I think I'll go with the 4WD model as I do go skiing every year.

ian Experienced

ian

Posted
Posted
I think I'll go with the 4WD model as I do go skiing every year.

On a wet or icy road there is no comparison...

Ian

ps Drive to the snow? I haven't bothered going skiing in Aus for a few decades, as we don't really get 'snow' here.. (if the 'snow' feels wet, or is hard - or the temperature has got above -5 in the last week, it ain't really snow...). I know, I've spent too much time in Japan and Canada... :sweat:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Duncan
      3D printing fun

      By Duncan · Posted

      Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • Duncan
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) clogged cat

      By Duncan · Posted

      I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Sean'O
      3D printing fun

      By Sean'O · Posted

      Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...