Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok. next noob question

which exact type of redline oil.. please give detail ill buy tomorrow..

and with the oil filter.., would skyline be in the book thingy, so i know which one to get?

RL108-4 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Gallon 3.784L each $123.00

RL108-1 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Quart 0.946L each $36.00

is it just me... or is this going to cost me a large amount for this oil.....

Or should i go with something else...... considering my car is virtually stock

RL108-4 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Gallon 3.784L each $123.00

RL108-1 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Quart 0.946L each $36.00

is it just me... or is this going to cost me a large amount for this oil.....

Or should i go with something else...... considering my car is virtually stock

You poor little munchkins, I just spent over 200 bucks on redline courtesy of an increased capacity sump. ouch!

meh it doesnt bother me buying oil.. just i have no idea what im buying when i go in there ;) thats why i asked.. and didnt get a helpful response except for a brand name lol..

i went to supercheap and autobarn and came home with nothing..

i asked wat oil filter i need, and they handed my the right one. i read the box, and it said skyline (1978 - 1987 ) so i didnt get it lol

ill try again tomorrow

Oil filter is a Z145a. I dunno what stupid number Valvoshit use but that's the one you're after.

Oil is anything semi-synthetic or full synthetic 10w40, 10w50, 15w40, 15w50. Try to steer clear of anything under 10 and over 50. 10w30 if you have to.

If you choose to do your own oil change, be prepared to pay consequences if you make a mistake.

And the reason Redline was suggested is because it is, by far, the best oil on the market. You won't get it for a 'bargain price'. Be prepared to pay good money for good oil. I can get you a gallon of Redline 15w50 for $105 and around $30 for the 1L bottle.

Or you can go for maybe the next best oils on the market being Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. I don't rate Castrol as their so called 'Full Synthetic' oils are blended so that is crap in my book.

Mobil 1 you'll pay around $80 for 5L - generally a tad thin for what you want. I think it comes in a 0w40 or a 5w50 or something like that.

300V you can only get in 4's and 2's so 6L will set you back around $160-190.

And the reason Redline was suggested is because it is, by far, the best oil on the market. You won't get it for a 'bargain price'. Be prepared to pay good money for good oil. I can get you a gallon of Redline 15w50 for $105 and around $30 for the 1L bottle.

Or you can go for maybe the next best oils on the market being Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. I don't rate Castrol as their so called 'Full Synthetic' oils are blended so that is crap in my book.

Mobil 1 you'll pay around $80 for 5L - generally a tad thin for what you want. I think it comes in a 0w40 or a 5w50 or something like that.

300V you can only get in 4's and 2's so 6L will set you back around $160-190.

im not being an ass, i just wanna know why its ur pick. is it because uve had better results in engines than ones with the motul/mobil?

Oil filter is a Z145a. I dunno what stupid number Valvoshit use but that's the one you're after.

Oil is anything semi-synthetic or full synthetic 10w40, 10w50, 15w40, 15w50. Try to steer clear of anything under 10 and over 50. 10w30 if you have to.

If you choose to do your own oil change, be prepared to pay consequences if you make a mistake.

And the reason Redline was suggested is because it is, by far, the best oil on the market. You won't get it for a 'bargain price'. Be prepared to pay good money for good oil. I can get you a gallon of Redline 15w50 for $105 and around $30 for the 1L bottle.

Or you can go for maybe the next best oils on the market being Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. I don't rate Castrol as their so called 'Full Synthetic' oils are blended so that is crap in my book.

Mobil 1 you'll pay around $80 for 5L - generally a tad thin for what you want. I think it comes in a 0w40 or a 5w50 or something like that.

300V you can only get in 4's and 2's so 6L will set you back around $160-190.

wow, thanks for the great response, ill be writting it down and heading out tomorrow..

i spent 98 bucks on oil last time. so i dont mind spenidng more for better stuff :sleep: i just want whats recommened and it ""trusted"" on by other sau members :)

and i was planning on changes it myself.. what kinda consequences am i looking at if done wrong?

im not being an ass, i just wanna know why its ur pick. is it because uve had better results in engines than ones with the motul/mobil?

It's my pick because rather than cutting costs by blending into polyalphaolefin base stock for its motor oil, Red Line Oil only uses superior poly ester-based products—resulting in lubricants that are extremely stable at high temperatures while providing superior film strength at lower viscosities where more power can be produced.

Motor oil.

Red Line synthetic motor oils are a superior strength oil, designed to provide the highest degree of protection and cleanliness for your engine. Red Line lubricants contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines, which makes our motor oil a necessity to properly lubricate a hot running engine or a turbocharger. More importantly, Red Line motor oils can significantly reduce engine wear, which means a longer useful life for your engine. Unlike other oils that break-down quickly, thus having to be changed at small intervals, Red Line has superior long-drain capabilities. Read about how Red Line synthetic oils have been shown to last 40,000 kms in field tests.

Race oil.

Red Line has a complete line of race oils (5W up to 70W) that work under the demanding conditions of high-performance driving. Red Line Race Oils have gained a reputation as the ultimate racing lubricant. Marketers of other lubricants unsuccessfully claim to be “as good as Red Line”. Our lubricants are used by teams who understand that improved performance and equipment durability is the key to winning. Our race oils are made with the most thermally stable synthetic base stocks available and provide the best high-temperature lubrication and a higher film strength than any petroleum or synthetic marketed. Red Line Race Oils provide more power than an oil of similar viscosity, while providing much more protection. Each reduction in viscosity grade allows 1–2% more power.

Redline can explain it better.

Basically protects engine better. Make more power. Oil is more thermally stable. Only oil that can lubricate hot metal.

Redline are the only oil manufacturer that can PRINT that they are better than all others on the market because they can actually prove it.

wow, thanks for the great response, ill be writting it down and heading out tomorrow..

i spent 98 bucks on oil last time. so i dont mind spenidng more for better stuff :sleep: i just want whats recommened and it ""trusted"" on by other sau members :)

and i was planning on changes it myself.. what kinda consequences am i looking at if done wrong?

Leaving the oil filter o-ring on the engine. Sometimes it sticks to the filter housing and when you screw the new one on it just pulls to one side and stops the filter from sealing. You'll end up with 5L of oil on the floor and all over the drivers side of your engine bay in about 3-4seconds.

You could leave the sump plug out and slip over on the puddle around your feet.

You could accidentally mistake your expensive oil for good scotch and drink it. This will poison you.

im not being an ass, i just wanna know why its ur pick. is it because uve had better results in engines than ones with the motul/mobil?

Also....ask R33_Racer why he uses Redline in his track car? I'm sure he'll tell you it's because it's a far superior product.

...either that or because his dad tells him to lol.

....But if you ask his dad, then, he would definately say that....definately.

Leaving the oil filter o-ring on the engine. Sometimes it sticks to the filter housing and when you screw the new one on it just pulls to one side and stops the filter from sealing. You'll end up with 5L of oil on the floor and all over the drivers side of your engine bay in about 3-4seconds.

You could leave the sump plug out and slip over on the puddle around your feet.

You could accidentally mistake your expensive oil for good scotch and drink it. This will poison you.

IM screwed.....

perhaps i should pay someone lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Looking at finally painting and installing my R32 GTR wing I bought back in 2018. I got two quotes: Quote 1: $880 includes: wing, spare boot, holes welded up prep/paint. Pro: full boot with wing AND hole-less boot with lip i can swap between Con: $$  Quote 2: $330 wing only. Pro: cheaper Con: lose my (relatively) rare no holes sedan boot Also to consider I do plan on painting my whole car at some point "soon" (been saying that since 2018) Anyway Enjoy these All Japan Day 2025 pictures of my 4 door, still rocking the Calsonic Livery! Rolling in Interior shot Matching Peer Pressure Racing overalls are pretty cute ngl. This year was a hard 1990 cut so I got to be over with all the older cool stuff Next to arguably the best car there. A mighty S-Cargo
    • I personally would run 2x from the cam covers into the catch can, 1x sump vent to catch can (would mount this at a low point of the catch can, so it can also act as a drain). I would see if you can run a -12AN down there to improve venting and also draining. The head drain thing, just drain that back to the sump on the other side. Catch can to be vented, unless you plumb or back to the intake.
    • Yeah the head "drain" is rather a sump/crank case vent. My catch can stopped filling up after venting the sump to the catch can. I have 4x fittings in mine, which is about 5Ls. 2x cam, 1x sump vent/catch can drain, 1x fitting back to the intake and a massive breather which can be blocked so it's a fully sealed system.
    • Ok glad you clarified on the frenchy’s options , I was worried about if my oem hoses would fit the new compressor or not if I just bought the bracket/compressor kit ,  didn’t realize they also sold a larger full conversion kit. Hmm may just go oem in that case then to make it easy only because I plan to sell this car to upgrade to a 32 GTR or 34 GTT.
    • Right, here's a video of the basic operation at least.  This is what you can expect day to day when you turn the car on and it boots from standby.  The only thing from a media point of view I haven't gotten working is for it to autoplay plexamp when it turns on from standby (it works from cold boot) but that's more of a plexamp problem as it will autoplay other music players.  Also attached is my one stray cable.  It's part of the screen's wiring adapters but there's just nowhere for it to go in my car.  I've just now done a bit of research and found a matching port on a 2010-2014 head unit with BOSE.  Mine has no BOSE so that's that case pretty much closed I think.  Plugging in the Infiniti AC panel basically did nothing for me, so that's a dead end as well.  Next port of call is to mess with this CANBUS module and see what I can find from it.  I found this resource containing the DBC files for a 2010+ G37 : https://github.com/icecube45/Dash_InfinitiG37/blob/master/InfinitiG37.dbc I'll now have something to go from when I try to extract my CANBUS data so I can see if the HVAC Mode, Fan Speed, Temperature, etc. match and also the gear shifter position.  It's a pretty big assumption that it's just mismatched CAN signals but considering all the devices in the CAN network are talking to each other (AC can be fully adjusted just with no info on screen) it might be a safe one.  I will report back WhatsApp Video 2025-02-26 at 12.49.10.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...