Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You need PWR like this;

He hold boost for like 10 seconds, watch right till the end of the clip :P

Nice flameage

Link doesnt work, another volvo?

ok opinions people

What price should I put on my cars?

the R33 is pretty stock, low kays with upgraded suspension, intercooler and exhaust

the R32 well it has one of every thing

I'm going to be honest here with the R33, not because it had crossed my mind to buy, but Ive looked at a few now.

My friend bought his 94 that has been repainted in GTR purple, 18's, adjustable teins, full exhaust, big FMIC, 400r body kit and a mild sound system for $8500 with roughly 115,000 - 120,00kays. To date it's only needed a turbo to manifold gasket.

I'm going to look at a forced sale R33 maybe next week, he wants $8300, but I know I can get it for $7k. Although it needs paint in a few area's.

I think your R33 to sell is a $9,000 - $10k car. I think it'll be hard pressed to get much more. I've seen a few SII's come up for low teens now..

-------------

Your R32 on the other hand.

My mate paid $18k for JapTaxis built rb26/R32 gtst. And your car has ALOT more on it in terms of a total package. I can buy my old R32 back for $23k, so anything in the middle of those two price's.

ok opinions people

What price should I put on my cars?

the R33 is pretty stock, low kays with upgraded suspension, intercooler and exhaust

the R32 well it has one of every thing

R33 GTST put $14k on it...but accept 12 if offered, no lower

R32 GTST put $20K on it...but accept 16-17 if offered, no lower

R33 GTST put $14k on it...but accept 12 if offered, no lower

R32 GTST put $20K on it...but accept 16-17 if offered, no lower

I'll give you head if Andy even gets a phone call at $14k.

R33's aren't moving at all, I'm worrid if I buy this one for $7k that i wont be able to move it as its so stock

Edited by Nismo_Boy
see andy, ur gonna get reamed sooooo bad if u sell the 32 :worship:

Anything thats:

A) a "Japanese" import

and

B) Turbo

Isn't moving. Look at the top two used car sites, carpoint and car sales. Check the when listed dates at the higher priced cars and check the newer when listed dates of other just listed cars.. What do you notice? Anyone trying to sell a car now has a much lower a price

I'll give you head if Andy even gets a phone call at $14k.

R33's aren't moving at all, I'm worrid if I buy this one for $7k that i wont be able to move it as its so stock

$7k wtf?

Buy it. You aren't going to buy a car to make money from it but in 2-3 years time you can bet your arse you'll still get $7k for it if you keep it in good nick.

$14k is a fair price for a virtually stock 33. I can get them in the country for 11-12. The market up here is of no importance to the market down south. And there is always going to be P platers wanting them in a few years.

$7k wtf?

Buy it. You aren't going to buy a car to make money from it but in 2-3 years time you can bet your arse you'll still get $7k for it if you keep it in good nick.

$14k is a fair price for a virtually stock 33. I can get them in the country for 11-12. The market up here is of no importance to the market down south. And there is always going to be P platers wanting them in a few years.

Every car I have owned and bought was to make money on, which I did with the exception to my quick R32, my Lexus and my BMW. I had to stop buying imports to profit from when bought the quick R32, as the profit in it just wasn’t enough.

I’m not saying $14k isn’t a fair price, I’m just saying it wont sell, or not quick anyway. The market for R33’s is crap at the best of times; the people who do want them have a surplus amount to choose from and can realistically be picky with price and car.

Morgs on here is only asking around $12k - $13k from memory for his wife’s R33, which would have to be one of the cleanest I can find for sale.

cool I was thinking 10-11k for the 33 and 20k for the R32 so good to see my idea is about the right price

My other option is to put a stock rb25 in it and sell the other engine then sell the car, not sure what would get me more money

And as for getting reamed I have been getting reamed every day by the car so who gies a f**k lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Lucky man, who owns it in the family? Any pics? 
    • The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p
    • Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car.   Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up.   Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.
    • Yes. Imagine you have the car on the ground, and you mine away all the ground under and around it, except for the area directly under each individual wheel. That's exactly how it'd look, except the ground will be what ever you make the bit under each wheel from
    • Yes, if you set the "height" right so that it's basically where it would be when sitting on the wheel. It's actually exactly how I tighten bolts that need to be done that way. However....urethane bushes do NOT need to be done that way. The bush slides on both the inner and outer. It's only rubber bushes that are bonded to the outer that need to be clamped to the crush tube in the "home" position. And my car is so full of sphericals now that I have very few that I need to do properly and I sometimes forget and have to go back and fix it afterwards!
×
×
  • Create New...