Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Lol, I have heard of a few rotor related screw up lately, must have new trained monkeys sending them out.

well the fact that my name was very poorly spelt was a good start Bodo Birkmann = Bode Bri chkman. just as close as the rotor sizing.

300C rotors do look impressive though, and so they should for the giant cruise liner that it is.

I need to do somthing about mine soon, I have seen the results of a failed balancer, its not pretty

Yah, was shown what a failed balancer can do...

When are harmonic balancers recomended anyways?

When old one wears out. I thought about getting Ross/ATI but was told not to bother for stock motor and ended up getting another stock balancer when mine worn out many moons ago.

Plus reading few stories about Ross balancer throwing ancillary belts 'cause it was out of alignment to stock ancillary pulleys.

I received one drilled rotor and one plain rotor a few weeks ago. That was an interesting phone call :)

well the fact that my name was very poorly spelt was a good start Bodo Birkmann = Bode Bri chkman. just as close as the rotor sizing.

300C rotors do look impressive though, and so they should for the giant cruise liner that it is.

Undoubtedly the work of actual monkeys

Sounds like its easier to start again.

Yep sure would be. I dare say that it may even work out cheaper if I bought when the market was low however I am a sentimental old fart. My car has been around since Tyler was a baby, saved my ass on a few occasions and tried to kill me at least once (HICAS is totally homogay). It's just sorta become part of the family and I'd feel like I was sending her to the pound because she has car aids.

Plus It's a good opportunity for Tyler to learn about cars, SAU's shortest engineer has to start somewhere...maybe even one day after I start feeling the pangs of old age I'll give the Ark to Tyler and go buy a 350Z or a 35 GTR.

Plus if I can get parts cheap/on sale/off the forums it may even work out cheaper.

How many kms have it done out of interest?

Decent to-do list here.

190,000. It's just about at the point where I have to pull the engine apart anyway.

Yep sure would be. I dare say that it may even work out cheaper if I bought when the market was low however I am a sentimental old fart. My car has been around since Tyler was a baby, saved my ass on a few occasions and tried to kill me at least once (HICAS is totally homogay). It's just sorta become part of the family and I'd feel like I was sending her to the pound because she has car aids.

Plus It's a good opportunity for Tyler to learn about cars, SAU's shortest engineer has to start somewhere...maybe even one day after I start feeling the pangs of old age I'll give the Ark to Tyler and go buy a 350Z or a 35 GTR.

Plus if I can get parts cheap/on sale/off the forums it may even work out cheaper.

190,000. It's just about at the point where I have to pull the engine apart anyway.

Fair enough, the next piece of hassle saving advice is dont turbo the N/A engine. Bin it and buy a Turbo engine, less hassle and its the correct compression ratio.

Yep sure would be. I dare say that it may even work out cheaper if I bought when the market was low however I am a sentimental old fart. My car has been around since Tyler was a baby, saved my ass on a few occasions and tried to kill me at least once (HICAS is totally homogay). It's just sorta become part of the family and I'd feel like I was sending her to the pound because she has car aids.

Plus It's a good opportunity for Tyler to learn about cars, SAU's shortest engineer has to start somewhere...maybe even one day after I start feeling the pangs of old age I'll give the Ark to Tyler and go buy a 350Z or a 35 GTR.

Plus if I can get parts cheap/on sale/off the forums it may even work out cheaper.

190,000. It's just about at the point where I have to pull the engine apart anyway.

Don't pull the engine apart. Slap a turbo on it, drive around til it blows then buy turbo motor or RB30. A mate is doing 25de neo + Trust T67-25g on his (work in progress).

what do you guys think about theses?

DBA-Brake-Rotor-Set-Rear-Slotted-DBA4908

worth it or not? they are for the rears only.

For street or track?

If track, don't bother as they are known to crack. Get RDA or something else.

Don't pull the engine apart. Slap a turbo on it, drive around til it blows then buy turbo motor or RB30. A mate is doing 25de neo + Trust T67-25g on his (work in progress).

my (^this) comment was actually in response to this^ :)

For street or track?

If track, don't bother as they are known to crack. Get RDA or something else.

Kinda both. I have also heard they are prone to cracking when on track duties. Kinda reaffirmed that RDA is the way to go.

Fair enough, the next piece of hassle saving advice is dont turbo the N/A engine. Bin it and buy a Turbo engine, less hassle and its the correct compression ratio.

or sell the ark and just buy one with everything you want already and save you even more hassles.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But, do I have to? 😬
    • While doing my tailgate struts I found some rust. Also replaced my bonnet struts. Such a cool satisfaction with that job.
    • So I removed as much as I could from both sides. The shop vac did a great job of clearing 99% of it. I got it all as clean as I could and then absolutely drenched the whole lot in the rust converter. Tonight or tomorrow I'll hammer it again. The cavity must be close to 400mm in length and surprisingly I was able to get it right to the back.  I'll quickly reassemble and then pretend I never saw it. I'll post pics (for me to ignore later) soon.
    • Yea she is a hoot to drive 
    • I have always resisted the urge to go silly. 8" wide wheels and street friendly spring rates? Check. (Let's not talk about the steadily increasing spread of spherical joints across my suspension!!) Stock turbo, run at 12 psi? Check. Lasted for~?10 years before it died. Highflow put on rather than seizing the opportunity to go G45. You don't need 300 rwkW, let alone the more massive numbers that seem to be essential these days, to have a car that is already way too powerful and fast for a streeter. ~250rwkW is fine. I've never exceeded 200, although I will sneak up above it if and when I manage to get my finger out and do what needs to be done to use the highflow's capacity. You don't need $10k worth of CF bits glued onto the outside. You don't need razor sharp ankle cutting front splitters. You don't need the car to be 2" off the ground. You don't need flawless paint, mirror finished wheels, brand new indicator lenses, etc etc. All these things just make the car impractical and will cause you pain when they get damaged, which is inevitable for a street car. A few nice additions are good. Good seats are good. A nice stereo is good. A/C is good! (46° on the road yesterday and my A/C is degassed again. Was moderately traumatic driving home!) The main reason I stick with a mildly modified old Skyline is that I have had it for >25 years, the mods are the rolling result of 25 years of things dying and being upgraded opportunistically, coupled with a few "just 'coz" ones. And I hate almost all modern cars. If I was a young buck starting out now.... I wouldn't bother. Cars have a few years left where there is any possibility of interest or fun. Thereafter there will be no such thing allowed or possible. Any time, money and effort spent now on a project would just be a waste.
×
×
  • Create New...