Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Nissan-Patrol-GQ-Ut...1QQcmdZViewItem

I want this, yes im serious. I need help as to why I shouldnt

LOL.....

Josh the red neck....

the only reason you shouldn't buy it... is that like most of the Skylines for sale on SAU its over priced....

lol...like the other one i saw....$18000 sil80 rolling shell no engin, gearbox, rear diff or seats :P

LOL.....

Josh the red neck....

the only reason you shouldn't buy it... is that like most of the Skylines for sale on SAU its over priced....

lol...like the other one i saw....$18000 sil80 rolling shell no engin, gearbox, rear diff or seats :P

that sil80 is a bargain

LOL.....

Josh the red neck....

the only reason you shouldn't buy it... is that like most of the Skylines for sale on SAU its over priced....

lol...like the other one i saw....$18000 sil80 rolling shell no engin, gearbox, rear diff or seats :P

It's a GQ with about $30k worth of gear, it's worth every bit of high $20k, it's not too far out of the ball park for listing price. He wont get $35k though.

:D are you seriouse?? :P

I believe its all genuine Msports so... there is money in that, that paint you can tell was more then a $3k jobbie.

say $5k for a roller shell thats complied, $2k+ for complete Msports kit, I reckon the paint for $5k we're at $12k already.

It's got clean trim, people who like trim will pay top dollar, plus wheels, suspension + suspension gear. He bought everything new and C-Red built the car (cant be farked checking his Ns.com post).

So everywould have been top dollar.

Its real value would sit around $15k IMHO

Lee when am i ever serious?

:D What about when you told me i was the only one for you? :P

I believe its all genuine Msports so... there is money in that, that paint you can tell was more then a $3k jobbie.

say $5k for a roller shell thats complied, $2k+ for complete Msports kit, I reckon the paint for $5k we're at $12k already.

It's got clean trim, people who like trim will pay top dollar, plus wheels, suspension + suspension gear. He bought everything new and C-Red built the car (cant be farked checking his Ns.com post).

So everywould have been top dollar.

Its real value would sit around $15k IMHO

lol even if i did cost you so much to do do you really expect to get that much back, you could buy a show condition 180/s13/sil80 for the price he is asking for.... and i doubt the trim cos he states there are no seats....

im pickin up my rimz bro :D:(

im sure anna's not doing anything though :P

THIS Anna is going with you to check out the brakes for the 32 ;)

what the hell movie is that?

never heard of it

It looks gold! Same guys that did Sean of the Dead.

:D What about when you told me i was the only one for you? :P

lol even if i did cost you so much to do do you really expect to get that much back, you could buy a show condition 180/s13/sil80 for the price he is asking for.... and i doubt the trim cos he states there are no seats....

No offence Lee, as everyone has their own opinion, but it’s people like you who bastardize the value of cars, with pushing the price down in search of the all mighty bargian.

Everyone wants EVRYTHING for nothing, I know what it costs to build an S13 like that, and he’ll get his price eventually, as I said I believe his shell sits at $15k. It is only worth what someone would pay for it, saying that $15k is what I would pay as I know first hand what it would cost to build - However I'm not looking at buying it.

It took me just under a year to get $30k for the S13..... I didn't care if it took longer, I knew what it was worth, and even at that price it was too cheap.

You won’t get any “show room” s13 for $15k, they are all rubbish, decent cars will hold there value, just take much longer to sell as you weed out the tight c**ts just looking for a bargain.

Even if you got lucky, it still isn’t a wide body, with a genuine Msports kit and guards, with R32 brakes, VSKF rims and a highend high finish paint job

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like the solenoid might be cactus, if the solenoid trigger wire was still attached (and it was just the main power to the starter itself remove). Just to provoke Neil haunting me for the rest of my life... Have you tried tapping it with a hammer while someone switches the key to start? This might work for the fuel pump too... 😛
    • I need help dealing with an engineer who is massively overcharging me for an engineering report on my modified, written-off Jeep to get it roadworthy. 🔹 Initially, he quoted me $3,500 - $4,500. 🔹 First invoice: $5,315 (already above the quote). 🔹 Second invoice: $1,375. 🔹 Now, he has sent another invoice for $3,100! This is way more than double what I was originally quoted. I feel like I’m being ripped off. Has anyone dealt with something like this before? What can I do? Any advice on how to report him or fight these unfair charges? Would really appreciate any guidance! 🙏 Am in Adelaide.
    • I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
×
×
  • Create New...