Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah thats always good cause then you can leave the place in a like crap and not have to worry about cleaning it...unless you get her to clean up on her knees...

oh new topic...

is your car going yet shane.

Silence Rb20 owner >_<

Means I gotta go get my 18+ card. Now that is effort

pfft fark that, just trawl the streets up there :sick:

Are we any wiser as to how long you will be without a license as yet. AND....will you fall under the new p plate laws when you do get it back.

I would have had it back next month if it wasn't for a SPERS fine I had and never paid, that I only found out the other week, so its not a big deal as I always thought I was getting my license back in another 5 months anway.

Annoying yes, date didn't change so i'll live.

5 months time I reapply, and roll back onto my opens, and 12 points.

I would have had it back next month if it wasn't for a SPERS fine I had and never paid, that I only found out the other week, so its not a big deal as I always thought I was getting my license back in another 5 months anway.

Annoying yes, date didn't change so i'll live.

5 months time I reapply, and roll back onto my opens, and 12 points.

!WOOOT! thank goodness for that. otherwise it would be another 4 years of driving boooring shit.

Are you going to pimp out another hot ride?

You make me cry Noel, Nigga please - Pimp? once, and once only. NEVER AGIAN!

If I don't buy a performance car straight up I'll flog a few cars from auctions to put towards a motor.

In terms of what performance car I would buy, Im not sure. I was with a built rb26 on the weekend and it made me think... In a good way. But I still deep down want toyota love

That thought had crossed my mind. I however I aren't an open budget unless some miracle happens I and a land another awesome job

Saw a boganed rb30 at the bank on saturday night, 2j auto with everything home meade and the farkin thing still ran 11's

1.5JZ all the way man.

Did some serious in depth research to this. There is no hard core evidence that the 2jz head flows better/more then a 1jz head (stock). So unless I bought a car with a 1jz already in it, I would just go a straight 2jz.

EI: I wouldn't build a 1.5j for the hell of it to put in a hybrid car. Nissan/Toyota conversion for example.

1.5JZ all the way man.

no i was being serious shane...what is needing to be done before it be going?

i have an rb20 for the moment....

ok, well dry sump setup, exhaust, and ecu is all thats left

however how long that will take depends on if i get this dog box on the weekend >_<

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah the ACL and similar formable heat shielding materials are really nice. But most people do not have the patience or talent to do a good job like that. Almost anything is better than nothing though. Even if you didn't form it closely like that and just had a slab of it slipped in between the manifold and somewhere/thing you wanted to protect, you would gain benefit. There has to be a market opportunity for people like Artec to make formed heatshields to suit their cast manifolds. The fact that they are cast means that they are consistently the exact same dimensions and they could add bosses to the castings like you see on stockers to allow heat shields to be firmly attached yet floating away from the manifold itself.
    • I've seen some stuff like this as well, not sure if it's a good idea or anything but it does have more standoff from the piping than the conventional fiberglass wrap:  
    • Jap premium will be 100 RON. You should use 98.
    • The exhaust gases are at their highest temperature as they leave the exhaust port and enter the manifold. They cool as they flow through the manifold because they transfer heat to the manifold and the manifold loses heat to the surrounding environment. Thus, inevitably, the exhaust gases are cooler as they enter the turbo compared to when they entered the exhaust manifold. So, yes, the exhaust manifold can easily get as hot as the turbine housing. Having said that, you will generally see the highest temperatures where the exhaust gases have to slow down or they are concentrated into one area - which is usually the collector on the manifold and in the turbine housing, because the gases slam into the metal at those places, increasing the convective heat transfer coefficient and transferring even more heat to the metal than they might just flowing past elsewhere. Exhaust manifold heat shields are a good idea - certainly for the stock manifold they are there from the factory. People seldom have anything like that on a tubular manifold because they are hard to achieve. Some might wrap a tube manifold with fibreglass tape - but this has a reputation of leading to cracked welds. The best case is generally to put ceramic coating onto the manifold to prevent it getting as hot (internal coating) and radiating/convecting heat into the bay (external coating). All the real heat from a turbo comes from the exhaust side. The gases entering are at ~800-900°C and the steel/iron gets nearly that hot. The compressor side is only going to heat the charge air up to <<200°C (typically not much more than 100°C). So that's nothing, by comparison. The compressor is not a significant source of engine bay heat.
    • Late to the party, specifically joined this forum as I just bought one of these and this thread has been a gold mine of info. If the OP is still around, mind if I ask what gas you been putting in yours? Mine has a Japanese sticker in the cap saying premium but it seems to get way worse mileage on premium (95) than 91. I always thought it was meant to be the other way round🤷 I do think Nissans claimed "6l/100km" is a bit fantastical 😂
×
×
  • Create New...