Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok. next noob question

which exact type of redline oil.. please give detail ill buy tomorrow..

and with the oil filter.., would skyline be in the book thingy, so i know which one to get?

RL108-4 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Gallon 3.784L each $123.00

RL108-1 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Quart 0.946L each $36.00

is it just me... or is this going to cost me a large amount for this oil.....

Or should i go with something else...... considering my car is virtually stock

RL108-4 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Gallon 3.784L each $123.00

RL108-1 10W40 Engine Oil 1US Quart 0.946L each $36.00

is it just me... or is this going to cost me a large amount for this oil.....

Or should i go with something else...... considering my car is virtually stock

You poor little munchkins, I just spent over 200 bucks on redline courtesy of an increased capacity sump. ouch!

meh it doesnt bother me buying oil.. just i have no idea what im buying when i go in there ;) thats why i asked.. and didnt get a helpful response except for a brand name lol..

i went to supercheap and autobarn and came home with nothing..

i asked wat oil filter i need, and they handed my the right one. i read the box, and it said skyline (1978 - 1987 ) so i didnt get it lol

ill try again tomorrow

Oil filter is a Z145a. I dunno what stupid number Valvoshit use but that's the one you're after.

Oil is anything semi-synthetic or full synthetic 10w40, 10w50, 15w40, 15w50. Try to steer clear of anything under 10 and over 50. 10w30 if you have to.

If you choose to do your own oil change, be prepared to pay consequences if you make a mistake.

And the reason Redline was suggested is because it is, by far, the best oil on the market. You won't get it for a 'bargain price'. Be prepared to pay good money for good oil. I can get you a gallon of Redline 15w50 for $105 and around $30 for the 1L bottle.

Or you can go for maybe the next best oils on the market being Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. I don't rate Castrol as their so called 'Full Synthetic' oils are blended so that is crap in my book.

Mobil 1 you'll pay around $80 for 5L - generally a tad thin for what you want. I think it comes in a 0w40 or a 5w50 or something like that.

300V you can only get in 4's and 2's so 6L will set you back around $160-190.

And the reason Redline was suggested is because it is, by far, the best oil on the market. You won't get it for a 'bargain price'. Be prepared to pay good money for good oil. I can get you a gallon of Redline 15w50 for $105 and around $30 for the 1L bottle.

Or you can go for maybe the next best oils on the market being Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. I don't rate Castrol as their so called 'Full Synthetic' oils are blended so that is crap in my book.

Mobil 1 you'll pay around $80 for 5L - generally a tad thin for what you want. I think it comes in a 0w40 or a 5w50 or something like that.

300V you can only get in 4's and 2's so 6L will set you back around $160-190.

im not being an ass, i just wanna know why its ur pick. is it because uve had better results in engines than ones with the motul/mobil?

Oil filter is a Z145a. I dunno what stupid number Valvoshit use but that's the one you're after.

Oil is anything semi-synthetic or full synthetic 10w40, 10w50, 15w40, 15w50. Try to steer clear of anything under 10 and over 50. 10w30 if you have to.

If you choose to do your own oil change, be prepared to pay consequences if you make a mistake.

And the reason Redline was suggested is because it is, by far, the best oil on the market. You won't get it for a 'bargain price'. Be prepared to pay good money for good oil. I can get you a gallon of Redline 15w50 for $105 and around $30 for the 1L bottle.

Or you can go for maybe the next best oils on the market being Mobil 1 and Motul 300V. I don't rate Castrol as their so called 'Full Synthetic' oils are blended so that is crap in my book.

Mobil 1 you'll pay around $80 for 5L - generally a tad thin for what you want. I think it comes in a 0w40 or a 5w50 or something like that.

300V you can only get in 4's and 2's so 6L will set you back around $160-190.

wow, thanks for the great response, ill be writting it down and heading out tomorrow..

i spent 98 bucks on oil last time. so i dont mind spenidng more for better stuff :sleep: i just want whats recommened and it ""trusted"" on by other sau members :)

and i was planning on changes it myself.. what kinda consequences am i looking at if done wrong?

im not being an ass, i just wanna know why its ur pick. is it because uve had better results in engines than ones with the motul/mobil?

It's my pick because rather than cutting costs by blending into polyalphaolefin base stock for its motor oil, Red Line Oil only uses superior poly ester-based products—resulting in lubricants that are extremely stable at high temperatures while providing superior film strength at lower viscosities where more power can be produced.

Motor oil.

Red Line synthetic motor oils are a superior strength oil, designed to provide the highest degree of protection and cleanliness for your engine. Red Line lubricants contain polyol ester base stocks, the only lubricants which can withstand the tremendous heat of modern jet engines, which makes our motor oil a necessity to properly lubricate a hot running engine or a turbocharger. More importantly, Red Line motor oils can significantly reduce engine wear, which means a longer useful life for your engine. Unlike other oils that break-down quickly, thus having to be changed at small intervals, Red Line has superior long-drain capabilities. Read about how Red Line synthetic oils have been shown to last 40,000 kms in field tests.

Race oil.

Red Line has a complete line of race oils (5W up to 70W) that work under the demanding conditions of high-performance driving. Red Line Race Oils have gained a reputation as the ultimate racing lubricant. Marketers of other lubricants unsuccessfully claim to be “as good as Red Line”. Our lubricants are used by teams who understand that improved performance and equipment durability is the key to winning. Our race oils are made with the most thermally stable synthetic base stocks available and provide the best high-temperature lubrication and a higher film strength than any petroleum or synthetic marketed. Red Line Race Oils provide more power than an oil of similar viscosity, while providing much more protection. Each reduction in viscosity grade allows 1–2% more power.

Redline can explain it better.

Basically protects engine better. Make more power. Oil is more thermally stable. Only oil that can lubricate hot metal.

Redline are the only oil manufacturer that can PRINT that they are better than all others on the market because they can actually prove it.

wow, thanks for the great response, ill be writting it down and heading out tomorrow..

i spent 98 bucks on oil last time. so i dont mind spenidng more for better stuff :sleep: i just want whats recommened and it ""trusted"" on by other sau members :)

and i was planning on changes it myself.. what kinda consequences am i looking at if done wrong?

Leaving the oil filter o-ring on the engine. Sometimes it sticks to the filter housing and when you screw the new one on it just pulls to one side and stops the filter from sealing. You'll end up with 5L of oil on the floor and all over the drivers side of your engine bay in about 3-4seconds.

You could leave the sump plug out and slip over on the puddle around your feet.

You could accidentally mistake your expensive oil for good scotch and drink it. This will poison you.

im not being an ass, i just wanna know why its ur pick. is it because uve had better results in engines than ones with the motul/mobil?

Also....ask R33_Racer why he uses Redline in his track car? I'm sure he'll tell you it's because it's a far superior product.

...either that or because his dad tells him to lol.

....But if you ask his dad, then, he would definately say that....definately.

Leaving the oil filter o-ring on the engine. Sometimes it sticks to the filter housing and when you screw the new one on it just pulls to one side and stops the filter from sealing. You'll end up with 5L of oil on the floor and all over the drivers side of your engine bay in about 3-4seconds.

You could leave the sump plug out and slip over on the puddle around your feet.

You could accidentally mistake your expensive oil for good scotch and drink it. This will poison you.

IM screwed.....

perhaps i should pay someone lol

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well.... it's not just "de-oxygenating". If you do that you just have, most likely, ethane. So you still need to do a synthesis step to combine a number of ethanes/ethanols to make circa-8-chain hydrocarbons. And of course you don't want straight chain HCs, because n-octane actually has a negative octane rating (ie, it's worse even than the n-heptane which sets the zero on the octane scale!), so you have to do some tricky catalytic chemistry to synthesise branched HCs. That's all doable - but it doesn't come for free. And.... it starts with ethanol, which is an agricultural product, and there will almost certainly never be enough of that as a base stock to replace the liquid fuels that are in use. You really wouldn't want to be planning to be using any more ethanol for fuels than is currently already used (in E10, E85s, etc). And ideally you'd be looking to reduce such usage, as it is largely wasteful, particularly in the stupid-ole'US-of-A where the corn lobby has organised it so that it's actually primary production corn that is used to make a lot of the ethanol, not by-products and waste, like it is (mostly) elsewhere. So, what I said about needing free-ish energy probably still applies. True synth fuels would be made from H2 and CO2, in a near reversal of the combustion process. In fact, given that the H2 would be split from water first, it actually is a complete reversal of the combustion process. But...energy intensive. The human race burns something like 1 cubic MILE of crude oil, after it has been made into various fuels. Every year. That's a simply stupendous amount of energy. Just assume that the density is 900 kg/m3, and that the calorific value is 45 MJ/kg, then that is 165.9 x10^12 MJ of energy. Or more than 10^19 Joules. You get a maximum of 1 kJ/s per square meter solar radiation falling on the planet's surface, and so if you halve that for daylight, and halve it again for average weather (highly optimistic) and then take ~25% for the very best efficiency of solar panels, then you need about 85.7 billion square metres of solar panels to generate enough electricity to replace that liquid fuel energy consumption. Each panel is about 1m2. That's a rather large number of panels. We also burn about a cubic mile of coal. We also use hydroelectric power. We also use nuclear. We also use a number of other sources, both "renewable" and not. You can kind of ignore the renewable ones (except for hydro, because it will all end up getting subsumed into pumped hydro for storing other renewables, and so it won't be the standalone renewable that it originally was), so we end up needing a multiple of the ground area number that I just arrived at.
    • Corvette thread then? Don't say I didn't predict the future again. "I love the little MX5, I do, but I just want something a little easier to get in/out of, a little more cushy and some power would be nice - I miss the V8 Rumble... I found this clean red C5 for sale recently and..." I'll do you a great deal on the next step, which is one of those but you can fit people in it, too.
    • What about renewable diesel and/or gasoline? I see some projects spinning up like de-oxygenating ethanol to make drop-in compatible bio-gasoline especially in CA. I still think the future is EVs and we should've all gone full throttle on nuclear power after the 1973 oil crisis like France. Despite 15 years of work in CA to reduce the CO2 intensity of generation with renewables our electric grid is still far worse than even "low carbon" nuclear power. ICE is pretty cool when you aren't depending on the stupid thing to be practical and reliable and cheap as possible to get you to work every day. It's kind of like mechanical watches or vacuum tube amps.
    • I just rolled over "my" first 10k km in the MX5 Every time I go anywhere it always ends up in a adventure to look at houses and find some random country roads I've been on leave since early November but unfortunately need to go back to work on 19 January Luckily though I still have a fair chunk of leave left to burn until.... Not that I'm counting 😁
    • These look like S13 wheels.  And Welcome! 
×
×
  • Create New...