Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and girls.

First post on this forum so play nice :angry:

I own a '93 Nissan GT25T Skyline that recently went 'boom'. Some of you might know it if you're located in Brisbane. Had the lancer cut bonnet vents and dual cannons, white. Never the less, she was producing 365hp or 278kw at the rears on 14psi when dynoed in QLD.

post-29267-1148519356.jpg post-29267-1148520221.jpg

She lives in the NT now and ran 13.7 down the quarter on an unprepped track, 30C temp and 12psi.

These are a very general outline of the mods on the car:

G-Max Wheels rear: 18x9.5 with 265’s front: 18x8.5

Tein hight and rebound adjustable suspension

Full 3inch custom exhaust with Magic Cat and twin Mufflers

T70 turbo on X-Force highmount manifold

Turbosmart 48mm Pro-Gate wastegate

100mm think Front Mount Inter Cooler

Blitz blow off valve

Sard fuel pressure Regulator

Sard 550cc injectors

Walbro 500 horsepower fuel pump

Motec Enginge Management System (M600)

Exceedy 5 puck clutch

Pod air filter

Oil catch can

Thermo fan

Bonnet vents

Isotta Steering wheel

DBA 4000series sloted disks alround with braided lines

Braided fuel-line, blow-by, breather and radiator overflow hoses

New chrome radiator overflow tank

Gates Racing radiator hoses

Viper 790VX Pager car alarm

post-29267-1148519428.jpg

Now that I have the general outline of what I own, on the table... I am asking for advise as to why it could have possibly died on me.

This is what happened: (Tuesday 23rd May around 10pm)

Just finished dinner in town and was driving a mate home down the Hwy. A commodore ute was tailing my ass and when I slowed down for the lights I might as well have been piggy backing him. Lights went green so I put my foot down (rolling start, didn't dump the clutch). My boost kicks in around 4100rpm so I was changing gears around 5500. I looked back during a gear shift to see the ute move from behind me into the next lane to pass since I had started to slow down, but as his lights went across my exhaust I noticed smoke pouring out. Foot off the throttle completly and coastered along. Asked my mate if he had seen it and he had but we weren't 100% sure if it was smoke or spray from the tyres going over the water. I first thought it could have been a turbo seal going. I let her go for a bit then dropped her back into third when we got in more light and tried again. This time around during gear shift... no smoke and no turbo lag.

Thought nothing more of it. (That's where I f**ked up)

Got onto a back street a block away from my mates place and I start changing gears around 5500rpm again. (My redline is 6900 - 7000, and rev limiter cuts in around 7200). No turbo lag, no smoke from what we could see but being a back street all we had were headlights. There was a car oncoming so I didn't use my high beams which could have helped me see the smoke coming from under the bonnet but that aside. Driving along as normal and we pass the oncoming car. Then we both start to smell somthing (which we originally thought was the cars exhaust we just past) but it hung around. I backed off again for the upcoming intersection. I still didn't realise what had happened yet. We got back into street lights and that's when I realised that the smell was from my car. If I stopped at the T junction I wouldn't have made it across. Back into second and I tried to merge across the lanes but any pressure on the throttle and the engine would shudder. I put my foot on the clutch, put her in netural, and took my foot off and just rolled to a stop. Engine off. That's when I saw the smoke. Was about to get my extinguisher but it was obviously it was only burning oil so I didn't bother. Popped the bonnet and almost died.

This is what we saw:

* Dipstick blown out (excessive pressure in the sump)

* Clean oil on left hand side of engine bay (including roof of bonnet)

* Right hand side of engine looked clean still and the block looked intack.

* Radiator intack, and temp guage didn't rise.

Being me (and I am sure I wouldn't be the only one to try this), I wanted to know if she would start again. Nope. Wanted to crank but it wasn't having much luck in doing so. Left her alone after that. Cleaned up the oil and got her towed to my mates place by another mate who came down to help diagnose the f**k up.

My mate checked the oil level yesterday (Wed 24th May) and the stick said she was still full, and the oil still clean with no traces of water. Today I hope to pull the plugs and see if there is any water or oil on one of them.

Relating issues:

* Oil was changed 2 weeks ago from really gluggy black old motul oil to new motul. She had to be flushed 3 times before I could put the new oil in. Had been between 10,000 - 15,000kms since last service.

* I thought I would be clever and save some cash by putting in Unleaded fuel with a bottle of octain boost that I had left over from when I drove her back to Darwin from QLD in March. I used this method once on the trip back but only cause I had no choice, and nothing went wrong then. I am kicking myself over this, you don't need to say anything... but getting paid monthly sucks ass

There was NO noise, and NO physical feeling when the sump rejected the dipstick. The only sign was that we could smell burning oil. (We both didn't even register it was oil cause it was clean oil and not dirty oil). The engine or turbo didn't seem to 'fail' until I had slowed right down and tried to accelerate again.

I have already been told what a few repairs could be including new bottom end, which is all well and good, but has anyone else had this problem before? Do you know what the cause was?

Any help and advise will be appreciated, as well as what you did or your mate did to repair their engine when something like this happened. I don't think I want to know how much it cost.

Cheers guys and girls :wub:

Phee

Edited by phee
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119388-rb25det-murder-mystery/
Share on other sites

you have blown a piston(s)... sounds like youv done the ring lands, or just badly burnt rings. could be muliple cyinders, either way, REBUILD TIME.... look here, it happened to me too.......

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=119286&hl=

So it wasnt cranking easily?

Big end bearing... possibly piston rings but then i drove mine around for a month with two screwed pistons, blew a lot of oil :P

Have you dont a compression/leakdown test as yet?

Thats probably the best place to begin.

That will tell the story that i think most are going to suspect is gonna be a case of motor out & rebuild time.

I dont think its nessessarily a blown piston, but it could be as the piston is letting the crank case fill with air but this isnt how it usually works. The smoke could just be oil getting onto the exhaust and burning off??? I dont think its the oil pump easy to check whind it over on a mechanical gauge and see if it build pressure?? Over filled, i doubt that too. I would be pulling the head off and checking the pistons and bore especially once you discounted things like oil surge, overfilled, turbo seals etc... Also this will check the head at the same time in a very unlikely circumstance you could have dropped a valve and this has casue pressue to casue other problems, but as mentioned I would look to having a look inside the motor!!

Big end doesnt explain the oil smoke, nor the fact it was a little intermittent, and it wouldn't casue crank case pressure. Are you sure the dipstick was in properly from the onset of the trip. you could have not put it in properly and the oil blew everywhere then a fueling problem started as mentioned you had poor fuel in the car, and due to the coincidence you have blamed the wrong thing!!!???

I'm going to go with blown piston(s), but the fact she won't crank is a worry - assuming detonation has killed a piston, it has probably pounded out the bearing as well. If you can find someone with a bore scope, they can have have a quick look at the piston tops to see if it is worth pulling the motor down. And if your breather enters the system before the turbo, you are also going to have some fun cleaning out the pipework and the IC.

sounds spot on, major lean out.

you have blown a piston(s)... sounds like youv done the ring lands, or just badly burnt rings. could be muliple cyinders, either way, REBUILD TIME.... look here, it happened to me too.......

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=119286&hl=

i've spent around 2k on my rebuild. thats with an n1 oil pump, new rings, thermostat, crank regrind, vrs kit bla bla bla... it helps to have mates in the industry.

check if your state had a deal going on with the local nissan dealer for parts.. that'll definatley cut costs a bit.

Hi Phee,

I guess it would all depend on how much money you have set aside for this sort of thing and what value you place on it.

Considering you had a stock bottom end to start with, I would have thought that purchasing a good long motor from an importer would be an option!? It would certainly be less expensive overall (re-using your top end and ancillaries) and it would get you back up and running the quickest way possible. My car is my daily driver and my only set of wheels, so this would be my first choice as I couldn't afford to have my car off the road for weeks on end.

Once you're up and running, you could start saving up your money and have your spare bottom end rebuilt at your leisure (with all the "good bits").

Sounds like a plan? :D

Good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you checked the foam over the years? No deterioration to the foam from e85 mixing in oil? (assuming you're on E85)
    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
×
×
  • Create New...