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I used normal silicon on mine as its all I had in the shed. :O

It HAS stopped the pop and break down BUT I can still see a little flashing of the coils at night with the centre coil cover off.

So for me.. its worked.. but there still is a little arcing out. Where as before I would experience pop at 11psi I can now ramp up boost to 1bar and there's no pop.

Pics of cracks in the coils, do note some cannot be seen by eye. You need a magnifying glass or camera in macro mode.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=63009 <<< Obvious crack

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=63010 <<< Cannot be seen by eye but camera picked it up

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...st&id=63012 <<< And the finished job

Excellent pics Cubes. They should help a lot of people.

Are they Series 1 or 2 coil packs?

Guys, I have a S2 1996 R33 GTS-T.

I have only just noticed by car misfiring in the last week.

Started boosting my car to 12psi (mods include fmic, pod, cat-back

exhaust) and started misfiring around the 3000rpm mark. Took

the boost controller off and now it's missing once the standard

solenoid opens up at 4500rpm and hits 7-8psi. There is a

substantial loss of power in this rev range.

I have bought a set of second hand series 2 for $100

and am going to get these installed later in the week by

my mechanic. Hopefully it does fix the problem!

They are R32/R33 Series 1 coil packs.

Do remove the coil cover, secure your ignitor, get the car warm and at night check if you can see a lightning show. Its a sure method to determine if your coils are on their way out.

Mine still arc out even though there's no noticeable missing.

  scrags said:
Guys, I have a S2 1996 R33 GTS-T.

I have only just noticed by car misfiring in the last week.

Started boosting my car to 12psi (mods include fmic, pod, cat-back

exhaust) and started misfiring around the 3000rpm mark. Took

the boost controller off and now it's missing once the standard

solenoid opens up at 4500rpm and hits 7-8psi. There is a

substantial loss of power in this rev range.

I have bought a set of second hand series 2 for $100

and am going to get these installed later in the week by

my mechanic. Hopefully it does fix the problem!

Second hand coilpacks wont help dude. They are stock and will still missfire unless u seal them correctly.

Edited by MKDR33

Hi all, great thread. I can't believe such a simple idea works.

My car is experiencing a different problem, but my mechanic is sure it is the coil packs and wants me to replace them with Splitfires.

The symptom I have is: When the car is in neutral, if I rev to around 2000-3000rpm, the car splutters and spits (misfire?). It also seems to effect driving when I am coasting at one speed. When I am accelerating or decelerating, there doesn't seem to be a problem.

I've recently had a the fuel pump changed (becuase of a missfire issue under load at around 4500rpm - seemed to fix the problem) and the timing belt changed (I thought it was about due) as well as a service including spark plugs. The problem seemed to start after this. In the last week I've noticed my check engine light come on 3 different times while driving on the freeway (knock sensor?).

Does this sound like a coil pack issue?

My car is a 98 R34 GT-T.

Thanks for any input.

Sounds similar to the problem I'm having.

I recently replaced the turbo drain hose and has appeared to make the light cruise miss/surge a touch better but it still comes and goes.

Watching what the o2 sensor is doing when mine does this it reads lean. I am soon to rip the head off and do a few other things so I'm hoping I fix the issue in the meanwhile.

It 'could' be coil related... poor spark under certain conditions = an incomplete burn resulting in the o2 sensor reading lean. Or it could just be a few stuffed injectors.

How does yours feel when cold, noticeably worse?

Thanks for the quick reply Cubes. I'll do a comparison tomorow morning when it's cold against after a long drive and let you know.

I took it to the mechanic yesterday and told them the engine light had come on. They plugged some sort of hand held device into a wiring loom under my dash and read the errors. The only error was something to do with the o2 sensor. Does this confirm your theory of coil pack can lead to bad o2 reading? Or does this mean my o2 sensor is stuffed?

The mechanic did mention the other likely cause could be blocked injectors?

  • 4 weeks later...

Definately one of the best DIY threads ..huge $$ saving solution.

My stagea was misfiring all over the shop on idle ...especially on a real hot day...pulled the coils out last night and smothered the coils with heat resistant silicone...got up at 5.30am this morning to put everything back together and now the car idles like a kitten.

cracked the breather hose putting it back on but that was coz it was brittle with age (using electrical tape as a bandaid fix)

there were 2 high temp silicone gels available at bunnings..401's which are heat resistant to 205 degrees ....and another one which which had a 4 hour fireproof rating

Had time to think about the whole thing though...now since most of the cracks seem to appear to the side or bottom of the coils where it meets the rubber boot...then closest metal object where it would spark to is the metal cradle that holds the coils...i took extra precaution by running a thin layer of electrical tape around the cradle too << just thought its something u guys might consider doing.

  • 3 weeks later...
  SkyKC said:
hey Guys I have r33 GTS4 NON-TRUBO, but still got a miss fire, I want to give it go, whats the spark plug regap should be since its a non-turbo? 0.8mm ? please let me know

non turbo shouldn't need to be gapped down.

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