Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

In the past few weeks I've been fiddling with my r33's dash lights, changing the covers on them, putting in LED's and finally putting new bulbs in.

R33 dash bulbs are standard T-10 park light bulbs. There are 5 that light up the gauges. 2 for the tacho, 2 for the speedo and 1 for the temp gauge (or fuel gauge, whichever is on the far left hand side).

I put blue LEDs in and found it near impossilbe to read the gauges. The numbers show up ok, but the needle is hard to see. Then i tried making it multi-coloured like i had in my last 2 cars.

In the end i just ended up using Phillips Bluevision park light bulbs. They worked great. You get a super white light out of them and you don't need to use any covers. I went from having the dull standard lights, to lights that look like I have a 240v fluro behind the dash. The needle is very easy to read, as it glows bright red. I'd say that this would work as good, if not better than white LEDs as LEDs are a more directional light. I will post a picture tonight of how bright the lights are.

But if your lights are dull, and don't want to bother with making LEDs fit, then this is for you.

post-27937-1148688909.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119707-another-dash-light-thread/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Just get EL Dials like I did :) HEAPS nicer and you get looks from every car beside you at night :sweat: many compliments...

post-23753-1148719257.jpg

P.S I used an ultra-bright blue LED to replace the bulb in my boost gauge which matched the cluster

Cheers

Yea they do seem brighter then the stock bulbs...

A standard LED is uni-directional and that’s why you didn’t get a good result… You can use fine grade sand paper and gently sand the surface of the LED to make it opaque which will scatter the light more evenly, giving a larger distribution of light... worth a try

Cheers

yeah...no. not planning on taking the dash out again for a while. done it enough in the past few weeks. the lights look a bit brighter than in the pic. they look like some expensive cars lights. i love it. the needle it bright red all the way to the tip, and the numbers are bright and clear to read.

no problem yet, the temp difference is minimals. the globes that were in there were a silver top bulb, with a cover on them. the covers stop a bit of light. so just taking the covers off made it a little brighter but it was more yellow. the bulbs aren't right up against the dash so i doubt there would be any chance of melting.

I see. Dont suppose you have a dimmer switch or something?

My dash lights are dull too and it doesnt have the dimmer switch, was thinking of somehow making one of the dimmer switches and putting some brighter blubs in the dash.

I had those EL dials on my dash for 2 weeks then i got over them and took em out lol

and pulling the whole thing out again was annoying.

i got some el dials off ebay for $90 bucks delivered ... took 30 mins to put them in now my interior looks wicked at night =)

worth the money i reckon ...

the white light is much nicer than the standard light however =)

ya i heard some ppl had that issue... i use the narva ones and if i recall correctly dezz is using the wide monza ones, but seems to be fine for us though.. u just cant see the last couple of mm on the needle which isnt realy a problem at all..

i just found the blue leds too dark and hard to read (couldn't see the needle very well). i was using narva and monza leds. brand didn't make a difference.

i could just see the needle, i just didn't like it being so dark. i like to be able to just quickly glance down and see what speed i'm doing.

a different colour led would've been better, like green, red, yellow or white. when i've used the blue covers on my other cars i've found them dark also, but all the other colours are fine.

to get the dash out you have to take out the ash tray, then undo some screws behind it. then move the gear stick suround out of the way. then there is a few more screws. then drop the steeringwheel and pop out the dash surround. then you have to undo all the wiring plugs to anything hooked to the surround. then 4 screws to remove the little dash surround (2 up the top that are verticle). then 3 screws to remove the dash. then its just a few plugs and you are done. sounds easy doesn't it... pity its not quite as easy as it sounds. a bit fiddly but not hard.

post-14512-1149413742.jpgIf you use a cyclops eye LED 1watt power it will light that mofo like bright as. normal 500ml amp leds run cold...but like someone said they are narrow beam... the cyclops eye led, its very wide view

But it gets hot.. heat sink is a good idea.. and you will only need 2 of them in the main cluster.

This is a dial i tricked up with an cyclops blue LED. 1 led, and it is so damm bright.

but if you cant get hold of those leds, the best shot would be some 16000 MCD bright white leds. dick smith $2.90

but yeah good work on the install, ive had mine in for ages, better lasting that normal ones

Just get EL Dials like I did :D HEAPS nicer and you get looks from every car beside you at night :P many compliments...

post-23753-1148719257.jpg

P.S I used an ultra-bright blue LED to replace the bulb in my boost gauge which matched the cluster

Cheers

my ELs are better bro. lol

post-14512-1149414818.jpg

Edited by kezza
Kezza, you got the reverse EL dials... 1st there much cheaper then mine... 2nd there too annoying to look at... unless your tyring to turn your car into the ET Space ship... :D

hahahah nooo not the ET space ship... more like the bridge on the star ship enterprise... thats me! :PBJ:

i dont find them hard to look at tho. :ermm:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If I had "perfect R33 GTR" kinda money I would have bought one of the crazy expensive low mileage HJA cars, but I am sadly not that wealthy. I already picked this car out of various Skylines for sale locally, most of which were worse in some way. Only a few cars were actually better but also more expensive. In terms of buying a motor locally, I at least have the option to inspect it myself and juding the seller as a person, and used or freshly rebuilt engines that some people sell are actually ok price-wise. I knew the car was going to require work, but shit piled up real fast and I haven't even driven 1000km yet as the turbo started oiling like a bitch within a few weeks after I got the car.   I assume it wasn't actually me who cracked it, though there is no way to know when that crack formed and if the previous owner even knew it was there. Buying another 05U Block can be a gamble, yeah, but the cheapest PRP cast block is like twice or more money-wise, and billet is 3 or 3 times as much. For now I am most likely just keeping the current engine, as a rebuild or engine swap isn't happening right now. But I am seriously considering buying a second engine and selling mine in return. Might be a sweet deal at the end.
    • Hi all. I need some help buying the correct size banjo bolts for my 2860 turbos. Because whoever installed them tore up the original part, I ordered new ones of this kind, because I just figured these were the most leak-resistant option as I already had trouble with a shitty braided line. I need to know the thread size of the smaller left hole, that is the turbo oil feed connection. I found out so far that the turbo oil inlet apparently has a 7/16"-24 thread, but I cannot find any listing or description of the thread size on this line. I do not have the original bolts. I tried using the bolts that were in the turbos (the ones that were mounted with the shitty braided line) but they sit very loosely so they can't be the right thread. Means either these bolts are the wrong ones (how do they fit the turbo then? no clue) or the wraparound-lines have a different thread than the turbo oil feed itself. Help is appreciated, asking Nissan directly is obviously not going to work.
    • EDIT: PSA to whoever stumbles upon this thread. It is in fact a crack in the block that caused this concern. Just letting you know. In my case, a few cm long hairline crack going horizontally above the turbo oil feed. Classic RB shit I guess
    • Might as well pop in some cams, head gasket, head studs, and a flex sensor. Full send.
×
×
  • Create New...