Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys

I have an R32 GTR with a freshly rebuilt engine (10,000klms ago) (Weisco + N1 bottom end)

I'm running 1.2 bar with R34 N1s + PFC + EBC + Splitfires, Tomei fuel pump and SX fuel reg yadda yadda yadda

I've just pulled my plugs out for a check and clean and they look like this (OMG)

They seem VERY fouled to me - yes ?

Sorry for the fuzzy images – but as you can see, they a visibly wet with fuel/oil !!!!!

What's the story - too much fuel ?

I've also noticed that I get clouds of white smoke when I accelerate (come on boost ?) in the past month or so. I'm not using oil or water, and I'm not running hot (80 degrees going by the PFC), and I'm still making good power.

Talk to me peeps - should I be back off to a dyno somewhere for a re-tune (the first guy to mention leek down test gets to pay for it ) ?

Also - what's the best way to clean these guys - should a wire brush be involved ?

post-11736-1148706723.jpg

post-11736-1148706814.jpg

Edited by itbmils

Yes they look fine - centre electrode looks dry and a reasonable colour (although that can vary with fuel and octane boosters, for example) and definately not oily. Also they all look more or less the same, so cylinders are seeing the same mixture, etc. The threads look a bit oily, but that can come from other causes like leaky rocker cover gaskets.

That said you say you have white smoke, and if that's the case, you have some oil burning, but not really sufficient to show anything much on the plugs.

looks good to me, rich but better than mad lean.

the white smoke might be because of condensation in the exhaust, mine would do this occasionaly but never used oil or water...

turbo cars inherently produce more water in the exhaust...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. A little bit of an update. It maybe(hope not) looks like i would need a new tranny(it would be "maybe" a cheaper or better option anyway) So i need some info. I know i need a different propshaft(i can make custom one) LSD is not a problem cuz the engine will be still(for now) N/A RB20. So if i buy RB25DET NEO tranny...is there something else i need? I read something about push/pull type but i do not know if i need to "change" something or i can just plug n play onto my engine a go? Thanks for the advice  
    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
×
×
  • Create New...