Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, as you may know our race car runs in production cars, ie we can't do anything to it except standard parts.

Which got me thinking......

If you were building a dedicated circuit GTR, not to any CAMS regs, what would you do?

And please don't bother with "build a carbonfibre body and drop in a mines crate motor"....I mean realistic :sweat:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/119743-creating-a-dedicated-track-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 148
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

STAGE 1

1. Strip all insides out and cage it

2. built buttom end rods, pistons,high volume oil pump, 9 lt sump, head to block drilled out, oil return from head to sump,ATI balancer and light weight pullys, JB clutch.

3. HKS 2530s ,cams, Trust front dumps and hard intercooler piping kit or TO4Z kit

4. power fc and nismo AFM(Z32 if TO4Z)

5. sydkid sus set up

6. UAS light weight tail shaft

7. fuel system to suit

8. remove air con and HICAS

9. new braided(spelling) brake lines

10. Trust TI 4in exhurst no cat

11. Run whatever rims came with car with sticky tyres(RE55)

12. Big ass cooling system

Most liky all i would do untill i had run the car and seen what i wanted next

Stage 2

1. Big Brakes 6pot front, 4 pot back

2. Cross misson or dog box depending on what the buget will take

3. new front and rear LSDs

4. Light weight 18in rims to clear the new brakes

5. Rebuild transfer case

Im sure there would be lots of other things but cant think of anything else now. I like the TO4Z. That would be a buget Car i would build. All comes down to how much money we have to spend.

EDIT: mostlikey added a vented CF bonnet and a computer with data logging insead of the power FC

Brad

hahah thanks mate but I would prefer double wishbones all around, not to mention 4wd :)

blk180 looks like you have had a quick think abou this too :)

how big is a to4z, isn't that a single? I was thinking 400kw+ would be handy.

nice adjustable suspension arms all around too....maybe Gary's suspension kit but I reckon a set of nice DMS shocks might be better suited.

Yer have had plenty of time to think about it but like most of us its just never going to happen but my daily is getting to point where it can be tracked bashed but not striped, no cage and only has 2530s.

HKS say there R34 makes 468kws with there TO4Z, 2.8lt kit and Vcam.

TO4Z is single high mount and the garret one will still pull 400+rwkws.

rb30 bottom end with a t04z, just built one for a friend it reaches full boost by 3100rpm and revs all the way to 7600 with standard cams and makes a tidy 370kw atw on only 18psi yet is very tackable and has huge amounts of low down torque. I would run a dry sump setup also and try to get 285+ size tires under the thing. Along with the other stuff people have mentioned in terms of weight and cage etc etc. That would make a killer track car!!

i've just acquired a tough built race engine - rb26 head on rb30 bottom, to4z (single) ready to go on along with most of the stuff the rest of ya mentioned. including full cage and some race buckets and grex alcon 6 potters. I will have dry-sump set-up to be safe.

i using motec so i can clear much needed space in engine bay--ie no air flow meters, new minimal wiring loom, all the standard crap/solenoids/pumps/vacuums etc bolted under and around plenum and everywhere else to go, battery to go behind the seats.

i have removed hiccas and will run standard box till it breaks then upgrade to PAR dog box.

should be thrashen it around at vic race tracks by october or november. and will also contest in gt sports series. i'm told it will qualify for this.

currently doing 1min 21.2 secs in standard porche gt3(385 horsepower at flywheel) at sandown so i can steer allright. i let you all know how the set-up goes but my times will speak for the set-up more than anything.

similar set-up by a sam mirkov in a white r32 sees him around sandown in 1min 15secs(on par with gt3 cup cars) which is dam quick so i hope to get a little faster than this.

i reckon whole set-up will cost close to 40k including car(mine cannot be registered-race use only) you need to be savvy, and take some risks with second hand stuff and utilise e-bay and forums. Buying engine already done will save you thousands but be sure to pull it apart and check it to be on safe side even if it does cost a little more to do.

good to see somebody with the balls to circuit race a car.. everyone else seems to be drag racing only

Edited by nedi

good luck nedi, the gt series is pretty damn quick, it would be good to see you out there! I would be very sure everything is legal there are some pretty strict regs or at least lots of special rules for certain cars....

giant.....what are you happiest about and what would you change? you would have to have the quickest circuit car on SAU :(

i've just acquired a tough built race engine - rb26 head on rb30 bottom, to4z (single) ready to go on along with most of the stuff the rest of ya mentioned. including full cage and some race buckets and grex alcon 6 potters. I will have dry-sump set-up to be safe.

i using motec so i can clear much needed space in engine bay--ie no air flow meters, new minimal wiring loom, all the standard crap/solenoids/pumps/vacuums etc bolted under and around plenum and everywhere else to go, battery to go behind the seats.

i have removed hiccas and will run standard box till it breaks then upgrade to PAR dog box.

should be thrashen it around at vic race tracks by october or november. and will also contest in gt sports series. i'm told it will qualify for this.

currently doing 1min 21.2 secs in standard porche gt3(385 horsepower at flywheel) at sandown so i can steer allright. i let you all know how the set-up goes but my times will speak for the set-up more than anything.

similar set-up by a sam mirkov in a white r32 sees him around sandown in 1min 15secs(on par with gt3 cup cars) which is dam quick so i hope to get a little faster than this.

i reckon whole set-up will cost close to 40k including car(mine cannot be registered-race use only) you need to be savvy, and take some risks with second hand stuff and utilise e-bay and forums. Buying engine already done will save you thousands but be sure to pull it apart and check it to be on safe side even if it does cost a little more to do.

good to see somebody with the balls to circuit race a car.. everyone else seems to be drag racing only

Cool...though 40k would be doign a lot of the work yourself?

Any times for PI or Winton in the Porka...im hoping ot get into the high 1:22s in my R32 GTST, curious to know how quick the Porka is at other Vic tracks

hmmm i reckon i am happiest about how much fun it is to drive! such a sweet engine when they are sorted. and a lot of satisfaction in sorting the car with different issues and knowing is faster as a result.

i am most unhappy about the weight they lug around!!

what i need to change is rear brakes, absolute shite

four pot a.p's next month hopefully :dry:

dunc the controller is still going strong too, great bit of kit

heading to dutton N.S.W Thursday morn

cheers Russ

LOL...dont forget to throw some serious coin at it for a close ratio box.

If only GTRs were built in the 70s without all the electro crap and safey gear that modern cars are built with, they would be half a chance of beign a bit lighter. Cars these days are even heavier so :dry:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The hot exhaust light will come on not from just the cat being blocked, but it's just a temp sensor, and it's designed to warn you to not do things like park in long grass.   If you've been pushing the motor a bit, it can cause the light to come on.   Second if the cat is rattling, I'd suspect it's not blocked, but instead falling apart inside.   The easiest "fix" until you can get a cat put back in, is to unbolt your one, bash the rest of the insides out, and then bolt it back in.   For a daily driver/street car, I am in agreeance of put a cat in the car. If it were race car I wouldn't care if it were removed.
    • No worries at all 🫡 I think the most satisfying things to make are the little bits that are just impossible to find or they're no longer manufactured. Generally I always try to replace parts with OEM wherever possible. This little project is also great because it'll never see the light of day, but strengthen these brackets so it's not just relying on the little standard screws in the headlight plastic. As soon as I saw the standard brackets and screws I thought, "well I'm not going to install with just the screws, the plastic tabs will just snap off". It's crazy how expensive everything has become yeah. But I suppose that's supply and demand; granted it's a lot easier to get brand new genuine parts these days which is fantastic 😊, I don't have to get totally reamed at the local Nissan dealer ha ha We sure are lucky we have all these manufacturers making parts these days, a few really great Australian companies too like Platinum Racing Products and Fit Mint Automotive, what a time to be alive ❤️ . I've got my eye on the RB26 head by PRP as mine has a very fine hairline crack, so that'll need to be addressed some time in the future. If you have any requests or odd things to make feel free to let me know and I can have a crack at making replacement parts ✌️
    • Thanks for sharing this, and BTW if your headlights are in good condition they are worth thousands....you might want to consider replacing them with brand new LED ones like this (https://www.nengun.com/78works/full-led-headlights-r32-skyline) and making enough profit to buy a house in Sydney
    • I'm not sure what sort of shops are nearby, but I'd expect any reasonable exhaust shop could put a cat in it that will not restrict the power that engine makes. Otherwise, if you want to remove it, short lengths that replace the cat are readily available online, search for "de-cat pipes" or "test pipes"  
    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
×
×
  • Create New...