Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good to see you finally finished mate, very nice. Love the low max carbon seats...no speedo though???...also glad you stayed with the white wheels. Not surprisingly you mate with the FD doesn't look too happy lol

more pix of the chick with the long legs plz

Latest pic of mine @ Sandown a week ago with the shitty race rims on...

2548115022_1306f48bc2_o.jpg

And an older one...but a goodie! Not much had changed since this pic anyway.

bestphotosmall.jpg

hey man nice car looks nuts with the nice wheels on ay.What front bar is that on ur car its nice ay.U got any more pics if ur car.Plz post up if ya do cos its hot

that has to be one of the nicest front bars ive ever seen, what is it ?? dont recognise it at all :S

p.s. your gtr is one of my favs man, looks so J style tough !!

its a TBO bar

my cousin has one on hes gtr

they are very low and you really need the full TBO kit to make them suit the cars

and at least 18s to have it low enuff to look good, 17s cant lower it enuff

Hmm what rims are those on the on hold pic. Looks like a 7 spoke TE37

they are tuff man, please find out what wheels they are lol, i want them haha, or yawn ill buy urs and you get something like that hehe

cheers tony

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...