Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here is my car turned around and getting ready for the gear box to go in soon

I will do a build thread for this car soon enough. The 30/26 is just about ready to go

The front bar is just zip tied on at the moment but it will be held on correctly soon. Im just going to a friends place who has a hoist to put the gear box in and will do the bar at the same time

006-22.jpg

Edited by waxracing

my hcr32

Zvoort45.jpg

Zvoort13.jpg

with 18 inch alloys wich I do not prefer as they are very weighty and a tad oversized

DSC_0004.jpg

but still not happy with how it looks atm, needs serious lowering + 17inch dished alloys, but since I'm using it as a daily driver, and my front lip is already kissing the 15 speedbumps I have to cross every day, it will be scraping like hell :nothappy:

Yes I know it needs more low.

IMG_4867e-1.jpg

IMG_4949E2.jpg

First track day at Sandown, cars best lap was 1.27.10 on kumho ku36's

IMG_2483.jpg

Active aero front grille :) Needs more self tappers

IMG_2449.jpg

Heathcote drags 13.10 @110mph on same tyres (yes my rear door is a different colour)

126205808oo1lzouowebsite10SAUDragDay39.jpg

dude what are your wheel specs?

there they are 17x9 -5 F and 17x9 +25 R, atm im running +10 at the rear, and ive lowered the front as well as pulled the guards out further to clear the wheels at the front. when ur running as much lock as i am with 235/45's u kinda have to push them out wide like that. they sit a lot better now tho.

63520_152755941412340_100000338067281_335522_7192402_n.jpg

63015_431523631108_693631108_5429743_7445786_n.jpg

59372_146594232045023_109368819100898_191624_5251698_n.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) has existed since the 80's. I'm looking into buying a Hummer H1 and they generally included it. 
    • My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts.  My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.
    • Fark the AFM card and Nistune, Haltech Nexus S3, DBW, cruise control, flex fuel, dis dat.  
    • It's most likely the bolt/bush where the cover bolts back wore and allowed cover to move forward.
    • Still haven't put the injectors and R35 AFM in so we can tune the bloody thing for the HG highflow it got mid last year! I think I can forecast the upgrade path to a bigger twin scroll, external gate, Haltech, flex setup, Samsonas, dis dat, etc will be .... a while away!
×
×
  • Create New...