Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Pix Only


gts-t 4 life

Recommended Posts

wayne j u just got no tast mate, looks really nice mate

The lines of a 32 and 34 are very different and each one is best left alone, Nissan got it right the first time around.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yer im just saying it looks nice, but you cant say its ugly tho because it isnt, ofcourse nissan got it rite the first time and i wouldnt change my front either, 2 of my mates are doing it so im just waiting to see hwo they look, one is a gtr and the other a gts-4 and both have the bee-r kit,

cheers guys

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yer im just saying it looks nice, but you cant say its ugly tho because it isnt, ofcourse nissan got it rite the first time and i wouldnt change my front either, 2 of my mates are doing it so im just waiting to see hwo they look, one is a gtr and the other a gts-4 and both have the bee-r kit,

cheers guys

pretty much all the R34 frontend conversions I've seen on R32's suck. The R32 has a much lower bodyline, and the R34 is higher, I've seen conversions where they've retained the low bodyline and it looks like it has downs' syndrome, and where they've retained the R34 bodyline it looks like the front is all chunky and and the rear just tapers off. In countries where you can't buy an R34 cheap I can see the point, but when you can buy an R34 GTt for $6000 more than an R32 GTSt I really don't see the point in spending all that money to do a conversion. Sure its novel the first time someone does it, but the 20th time... really?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took a few quick snaps last night of my car with it's new wheels on. It'd look a whole lot better if the car was clean, as the black and bronze would contrast more. Anyway, you get the idea. And yeah, I know it needs to be lowered a little more. Recommendations for springs? Currently has Bilstein shocks and possibly standard springs? Not too sure.

post-14331-1213796500_thumb.jpg

post-14331-1213796519_thumb.jpg

post-14331-1213796534_thumb.jpg

post-14331-1213796543_thumb.jpg

post-14331-1213796552_thumb.jpg

REAR: 18 x 9.5 +35 / 255/35/18

FRONT: 18 x 8.3 +30 / 225/40/18

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, maybe not. The main feature of Chinese manufacture seems to be incredibly variable quality, coupled with an apparent willingness to find a way to see even the stuff that fails QC. So the military could still take the cream of the production run and somehow sell the "sellable but not really useable" stuff to the stupid round eyes on the other side of the world.
    • Have you adjusted the clutch pedal rod? You can wind it in to shorten it. Just can be a cnut to get to.
    • Yes sir, that was me. Fake ARP's are also a thing over here in Canada and we only order from reputable dealers. It's sad that even simple things like bolts and hoses are now also being copied... anything to make a dollar.  Story time. Like all cheap crap from China, it's even an issue with firearms. Roughly 15 years ago, I purchased a new cheap Norinco 12g shotgun. First time out in the bush with it, while firing, bolt assembly didn't lock and it fired out of battery. The receiver also being cheap steel, basically exploded in my face. I was lucky to be wearing eye protection. Long story short, don't buy Chinese junk. Also Norinco being state run and their only military arms producer, if ever they do try and take over a country, don't worry about it lol. 
    • Installed  Nismo coppermix twin competition spec last year in my bnr32 with pull trans with Oem slave cylinder. The point at where the clutch disengages/enages is right at the top of the clutch pedal, meaning I barely have to push the pedal down for the clutch to be disengaged.  You guys that have the same combo are you experiencing this high pedal bite point??   Secondly I’d like to have the disengagement point lower meaning I have to push the pedal more(further not effort)for it to be disengaged.  I’m thinking to use a Nismo big operating cylinder(bigger bore at 13/16 vs Oem 3/4) which will require more pedal stroke to get the equivalent movement at the clutch fork. But I see Nismo web site says not to mix these 2 as the Nismo big operating cylinder doesn’t have enough stroke to disengage??? Any folks run both the coppermix twin pull with Nismo cylinder??    Thanks in advance for the replies but prefer only guys with pull clutches to respond. thanks     
×
×
  • Create New...